Please HELP my friend, he posted this on the Impala Forum
Please HELP my friend, he posted this on the Impala Forum
Here we go lets try to hit this from another angle.....since lack of interest in this topic is showing....
what makes a NEW opti go bad besides moisture inside of it and 6000 rpm shifts.....i have installed 2 brand new opti sparks and this is getting stupid....i have the scanmaster in the ride and what is happening is....
1. no malfunction codes
2. normal operating temps 180 degrees
3. intake air temp 135 degree
4. left blm`s 116-125 at idle
5. right blm`s 130-135 at idle
6. tps .86 at idle 58mm
7. injector rate both sides at idle are 126,127,128
8. 02`s right now are terrible te car does not see wot very well
9. retard knock 9.0 degrees at wot and will come down to 7.0 degrees.....
10. car sees 2 degrees of knock as soon as it passes 1.00 of tps%
11. iac has a funny way of sticking at 160 then 10 mins later will be in the 40`s range but it always takes a while to come down...
the car has a new opti,platinum plugs,msd cables, stock oem coil, 2 knock sensors,fuel filter....
the fuel pressure is where it is supposed to be 42 with vac off.....i connected a guage to the fuel rail and the needle rises just as responsive as my foot is to the pedal.....
vacum leak this was eliminated by changing all intake seals and using ultra black to seal it up throttle body gasket changed also...injector o-rings....to the fuel rail and to the intake manifold...
i installed a boost guage on the car to monitor vacum
idle in gear at 18 psi
idle in park at 19 psi
when the car saw WOT it went dirrectly to zero as fast as my foot hits the floor and holds it there the needle does not flutter it is on point....
things i have not changed
1.fuel pump for what theres good pressure....
2.map sensor reads about 12.7-13.0 at idle they told me this was normal
3. IAC valve this has to do with the way the car idles i doubt it will fry optis
4.mass air flow meter
5. car surges at idle in 100-175 rpm diffrences
guys i need help here could it be possible the dowel pin on the front of the cam is loose and is not spinning the opti correctly, everything was installed patiently and the right way... besides it only goes in and starts one way....
i cannot belive i installed 2 new optis from the dealer and they have both given me the same problems right before the car turns off and i have to get it towed this is such an inconvenience GM electronics are so primitive OMG!!!!!!!!! HELP::::::::
i am going nasty style what could it be, do ihave to fly in ligenfelter to help me here guys or have any of you experienced this stupidity, i will fly people in to fix my problem you know it has to be bad.....for the 1st time in my life i think i am actually call it QUITS.... on thiis damn lt1 crap......WHY ME.....such a simple swap turned sour...
if any of you guys have numbers were i could reach you at to break thisdown a lot better please let me know if you are interested in helping out a fellow b-body owner here i really would appreciatte it....
i think i am going to strip the bolts out of were they hold the water pump in place from taking this crap out so man y times....
today will be the 3rd disassembly in 3 weeks of the front of my engine i just had the car running for 10 mins outside by itself with ac on and it was popping out the driver side exhaust like a gunshot if you were to rev it in park it farts out the intake also but only at about 5k rpm`s when i drove it out of my job the car goes to about 1.25 tps% and the car goes directly to 9.0 degrees of knock and you start hearing PINGMASTER 7 MILLION......
compression check done everybodys good, pushrods been changed all 16 rockers adjust to factory specs...
maybe the timing chain has a worn tooth on a 30k miles motor i doubt it....
but i do not have any other ideas here guys i am dying from the lack of ideas at this point the obvious has been checked , i really do not think it is a motor problem....
something to do with electrical and ignition...
I DO NOT KNOW ANYMORE OMG!!!!!!!! I AM GOING TO TURN IT TURBO CARBURATOR IF I CANNOT FIND THIS STINKING FUEL INJECTION ELECTRICAL GREMLIN.....
BTW: yes all grounds are tight and on steel or iron not aluminum everything........
no there wiring harness is not rubbing anywhere i checked everything i even put ty-straps to move everything away from sharp edges and heat.....
did i mention it has new 02`s and no the cables are not swapped.......
ed wright, jorge debski, etc the brainers where are out thow smart troublsooting people..........
even swapped out injectors still nothing....
what makes a NEW opti go bad besides moisture inside of it and 6000 rpm shifts.....i have installed 2 brand new opti sparks and this is getting stupid....i have the scanmaster in the ride and what is happening is....
1. no malfunction codes
2. normal operating temps 180 degrees
3. intake air temp 135 degree
4. left blm`s 116-125 at idle
5. right blm`s 130-135 at idle
6. tps .86 at idle 58mm
7. injector rate both sides at idle are 126,127,128
8. 02`s right now are terrible te car does not see wot very well
9. retard knock 9.0 degrees at wot and will come down to 7.0 degrees.....
10. car sees 2 degrees of knock as soon as it passes 1.00 of tps%
11. iac has a funny way of sticking at 160 then 10 mins later will be in the 40`s range but it always takes a while to come down...
the car has a new opti,platinum plugs,msd cables, stock oem coil, 2 knock sensors,fuel filter....
the fuel pressure is where it is supposed to be 42 with vac off.....i connected a guage to the fuel rail and the needle rises just as responsive as my foot is to the pedal.....
vacum leak this was eliminated by changing all intake seals and using ultra black to seal it up throttle body gasket changed also...injector o-rings....to the fuel rail and to the intake manifold...
i installed a boost guage on the car to monitor vacum
idle in gear at 18 psi
idle in park at 19 psi
when the car saw WOT it went dirrectly to zero as fast as my foot hits the floor and holds it there the needle does not flutter it is on point....
things i have not changed
1.fuel pump for what theres good pressure....
2.map sensor reads about 12.7-13.0 at idle they told me this was normal
3. IAC valve this has to do with the way the car idles i doubt it will fry optis
4.mass air flow meter
5. car surges at idle in 100-175 rpm diffrences
guys i need help here could it be possible the dowel pin on the front of the cam is loose and is not spinning the opti correctly, everything was installed patiently and the right way... besides it only goes in and starts one way....
i cannot belive i installed 2 new optis from the dealer and they have both given me the same problems right before the car turns off and i have to get it towed this is such an inconvenience GM electronics are so primitive OMG!!!!!!!!! HELP::::::::
i am going nasty style what could it be, do ihave to fly in ligenfelter to help me here guys or have any of you experienced this stupidity, i will fly people in to fix my problem you know it has to be bad.....for the 1st time in my life i think i am actually call it QUITS.... on thiis damn lt1 crap......WHY ME.....such a simple swap turned sour...
if any of you guys have numbers were i could reach you at to break thisdown a lot better please let me know if you are interested in helping out a fellow b-body owner here i really would appreciatte it....
i think i am going to strip the bolts out of were they hold the water pump in place from taking this crap out so man y times....
today will be the 3rd disassembly in 3 weeks of the front of my engine i just had the car running for 10 mins outside by itself with ac on and it was popping out the driver side exhaust like a gunshot if you were to rev it in park it farts out the intake also but only at about 5k rpm`s when i drove it out of my job the car goes to about 1.25 tps% and the car goes directly to 9.0 degrees of knock and you start hearing PINGMASTER 7 MILLION......
compression check done everybodys good, pushrods been changed all 16 rockers adjust to factory specs...
maybe the timing chain has a worn tooth on a 30k miles motor i doubt it....
but i do not have any other ideas here guys i am dying from the lack of ideas at this point the obvious has been checked , i really do not think it is a motor problem....
something to do with electrical and ignition...
I DO NOT KNOW ANYMORE OMG!!!!!!!! I AM GOING TO TURN IT TURBO CARBURATOR IF I CANNOT FIND THIS STINKING FUEL INJECTION ELECTRICAL GREMLIN.....
BTW: yes all grounds are tight and on steel or iron not aluminum everything........
no there wiring harness is not rubbing anywhere i checked everything i even put ty-straps to move everything away from sharp edges and heat.....
did i mention it has new 02`s and no the cables are not swapped.......
ed wright, jorge debski, etc the brainers where are out thow smart troublsooting people..........
even swapped out injectors still nothing....
you say you swapped out the injectors, did you plug them into the right injectors, a friend did this when he did his cam swap and the thing popped like you describe. hope this helps some.
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daygoVR6
Pacific
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Jul 22, 2024 09:22 PM



call me 604-984-2494, I'll be home tommorow for most of the day, I've had tons of problems in the past, & I mean tons. Call me ask for Matt.
