Optispark!
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 45
Pull off intake stuff up to TB. Drain radiator, open bleed valves, remove drain plug from driver side of block, and knock sensor on passenger side. Remove coil if replacing (should if stock). Remove all hoses. Remove bolts from waterpump, carefull...driverside lower bolt on waterpump will pour out coolant as well. Might have to gently pry off pump. Remove crank pulley. Unbolt and pull opti 
Some people need to remove fan shroud and use a 3-claw puller for the pulley, but I didn't
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush - coolant drain and refill
http://shbox.com/coil/coil.html - coil removal/install
Might have missed something, someone will point out if i did
Some people need to remove fan shroud and use a 3-claw puller for the pulley, but I didn't
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush - coolant drain and refill
http://shbox.com/coil/coil.html - coil removal/install
Might have missed something, someone will point out if i did
Last edited by ZFan88; Nov 14, 2006 at 01:20 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 321
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,937
From: Ft. Worth, TX
ZFan pretty much hit all the high points of it. I just did this twice now in 4 days...took only 1hr 15min to get the opti off the second time
I skipped taking the knock sensor and drain plug out and just placed a huge catch pan under the wp when I removed the hoses...coolant pours out everywhere, but I managed to catch most of it.
When you remove the crank pulley, you do not have to remove the hub part, only the outside part that is held by the 3 bolts then it should pull right off with both hands working it back and forth, there's nothing but rust holding it on with the 3 bolts removed....a little WD40 helps too if you dont have a puller handy.
ALSO, when installing the opti...MAKE SURE IT FITS ALL THE WAY ON AND THE MOUNTING BOLTS ARE FLUSH WITH THE TIMING COVER...do not push the opti on by tightening the mounting bolts down.... I had about 1/8" gap and did not know not to do this...thats why I'm doing it again as you could hear the rotor rubbing on the cap internally.
I skipped taking the knock sensor and drain plug out and just placed a huge catch pan under the wp when I removed the hoses...coolant pours out everywhere, but I managed to catch most of it.
When you remove the crank pulley, you do not have to remove the hub part, only the outside part that is held by the 3 bolts then it should pull right off with both hands working it back and forth, there's nothing but rust holding it on with the 3 bolts removed....a little WD40 helps too if you dont have a puller handy.
ALSO, when installing the opti...MAKE SURE IT FITS ALL THE WAY ON AND THE MOUNTING BOLTS ARE FLUSH WITH THE TIMING COVER...do not push the opti on by tightening the mounting bolts down.... I had about 1/8" gap and did not know not to do this...thats why I'm doing it again as you could hear the rotor rubbing on the cap internally.
Last edited by 2QUIK6; Nov 14, 2006 at 08:06 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 45
I didn't remove the bolts from the block when draining the fluid either. The damn driver side bolt wouldn't budge so I said f*ck it and used a pan just like you lol. Worked out just fine though. I have everything installed, the opti went on flush without a problem, so hope it's good the first time. Just waiting on my pcm from Ion and I'm ready to fire it up!
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