Well thank you very much for all the help. and I am definatly gettin close. I have all my rings gaped, and installed on the pistons, I am working on droping the slugs in the hole now (but I cant find my 11mm 12PT 1/2" drive socket.. grr, so I decided to take a brake. I spend $80 on orgainiser trays I need to use them more. lol)

I have everything figured out except the thing circled in blue.. hmm.. here it is a little closer. still hard to see, its basicly a cylinder with a slit in it, maybe some kind of alignment dowel?..

 

See if it will fit the dowel pin hole in the back of the crankshaft. If you had the crank internally balanced so that you could run a flexplate w/o counterbalance weights on it, they may have pulled that part out of the rear flange. It's used to line up balanced flexplates to make sure that they only fit one way.

 

The machine shop never had either of my cranks.. So it cant be from that..

Could it have something to do with the part that the oil filter screws to?..

hmm. It could be an alignment dowl for ther heads, bur I already have 4 of them reinstalled after decking.

 

ok. I am alsmot done with my build.. and I still didnt find where this part goes. here are some better pics..

again. got this back in a bag when I brought my bare block into the machine shop. there was nothing on it but main caps. it still had all the freese plugs and oil plugs in it wich I got back allong with this pin.

ftp://test1:test11@web171.ixwebhosti...Stuff/Part.JPG

I am prety sure that it will have a bolt going threw it. to help align somehing.. Maybe timing cover?.. or rear seal cover thing?..

 

That's probably what it is. The bushing that helps center the main seal housing does look like the picture. Having a dimension really helps. I measured the one on a block I have sitting around and this bushing is .450 O.D.

A cap screw does go through the center. The bushing is installed on the passenger side of the block, just above the pan rail at the corner of the seal housing. It should fit into the hole there with a slight interference press.

 

Right here.. see how the hole on the top is bigger.. cuz the thing goes in there around it.






So. I need to take mine back off.. wich means I need to get a new gasket and get i back on.. and it was not fun to get on in the first place since the stand is in the way, I had to put half on, then push the other half over with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

Correct. If it's necessary, I go to the trouble to remove the block from the engine stand in order to make sure that the seal adaptor surface is completely clean and dry. The hollow dowel serves the purpose of making sure that the adaptor is centered around the crankshaft. If the adaptor is on on-center the odds of a significant oil leak go way up. Made that mistake once. Don't want to go through that again.

 

Yea. I will do it when its hanging form a hoist (allong with fully seating that rear expansion plug).. so it wont be a huge deal.

 

Sounds like you got it figured out. For future reference the LT1 use three 1/4"NPT plugs in the rear of the block in the oil galleys, one 1/4" NPT above the oil filter pad, one 1/4"NPT on the drivers side deck at the rear of the block, two 9/16" plugs in the front big oil galleys, a Pioneer EPC 108 plug in the small center oil galley up front, and a EPC 108 plug under the rear main cap. If you don't use knock sensors then you have an extra 1/4NPT on each side at the bottom of the block for a water drain.

 

there is it.. thanks for summing that part up..

but knock sensors?.. 2 knock sensors?.. my enigne only had one when I pulled it. and wiring for one one also. Does it come from the factory with just one?