not the normal what cam thread, but what cam?
 

Hey guys,

I was going to go with the CC 305 that I have here after I eventually break the bolt-on LT1 record, but I have been thinking of maybe going a little more over the top with it. Drivability doesn't matter to me, nor does sound. I am looking for the biggest baddest cam for a pretty much drag only car but the only stipulation is it must work with the stock bottom end.

I have ported stockers that I will be puting on at the same time, it has a very nice port job, bigger valves and all that so I don't think I have to worry too much about the heads flowing enough...

Any thoughts?

I would definately have to say the gm 847. Its a sick cam that makes sick power especially with ported heads. Do you know what the heads flow.

I'd actually stay away from the gm847, unless you don't care about breaking the bottom end pretty soon. But I totally agree, it's an awesome cam!

id take the lunati 60123 over the 847 any day of the week

I would say a custom cam designed just for your setup would be the best.

+1 :)

that lunati is bigger than the 847, should take out the short block in no time flat w/ some impressive numbers.

^^^
I called a professional and got a custom cam for "stock" bottom end and "stock" heads (hehe). its a 242/250. overcamming gets past the limitations of the stock heads, allows you to rev where you need to be...
then again my heads have been milled and have a valve job and port cleanup... and the bottom end has ARP rod bolts and has been balanced with new bearings and piston rings. luck varies from person to person. I am sure you know well.

to be 100% honest and to save cash I would run a GM847. it is a proven cam. I look to what atljar did a few years ago with a full weight car. you should have fun with it ;)


btw... look forward to your progress at all times!

thanks guys...

The heads were ported by a local guy when these heads belonged to a buddy of mine, I have also sent them out to be inspected, the ports work touched up, a comp. valve job, the valves undercut, and the mating surface milled flat. As for flow they should now be close or better then LE2's...

Just out of curiosity is it only the rod bolts that we need to worry about in the stock bottom end if we want to spin it a little higher?

If so how much work is involved with replacing the rod bolts? One guy told me I could swap them out one at a time and be fine and another told me there was machine work involved and I would need to remove the rods completely. Which is true?

I almost feel if I am going through all the work of pulling the motor apart for doing rod bolts then refreshing the bottom end couldn't hurt, but how much does that cost? I see a bad spiral of money going out if I want to do anything in the bottom end...

yea it can get expensive just to take the bottom end apart and put it back together for one part. I dont think there is any machining required for rod bolts on stock cubes. If you dont want to spin it to the moon and 306 wouldnt hurt. I had a friend who had a 306 and some home ported heads and made about 385 to the wheels and only spun it to 6200. that kind of power in you light car= a fast ass car. But a custom cam is also a good idea.