When to the track last night made a pass and car seemed to cut out on the top end of the 1/8th like I missed the 3-4 shift, been a while since I have run the car and shifts come in a hurry with the 4.33s so I go back around and get in the other lane and we launch it pretty good an it spins and start rowing the gears. Get on the top end of the 1/8th for the 3-4 shift and I make the shift and then car dies, won't restart either.

Coil wire is one tight, Opti harness is plugged in. Notice I dont here the Fuel Pump priming. We swap out my FP relay with another F-body and no luck, still no start and no priming.

I do notice that there is a check gauges light that stays on after the secuirty light and most other lights go out.

Possible problems:
Opti is fubar'd
FP relay is bad
FP is bad
Any others? If it was VATS, the security light would stay on or flash right?

If opti, would the FP prime anyway? At that moment in time when it was on the trailer and in the pit area, the fuel rail still had pressure; checked via schrader valve.

I have not removed coil wire and looked for spark there. Maybe I can do that tonight or Saturday.

I just dont want to pull the opti if that is not it, I would like to be able to pin point the problem.

Granted I have not hooked up the datamaster to see what codes are being stored, I will do that tonight or Saturday too.

Just wanted to get some feedback as to what might be the problem.

 

What sound does it make when you try to start it? (ie - Just cranks with no fire or what)

 

just cranks. it 'pop'ed a few times out the exhaust but that's about it, just cranks.....

We thought if the timing chain jumped a tooth it might "backfire" thru the intake and exhaust while trying to crank.

 

If the FP isn't priming I would check that first. No fuel = no fire, might have popped a couple times due to injectors dumping in fuel that was sitting in the rails.

 

will be out with the test light and multimeter this weekend and then start buying parts to fix it. Wonder if anything will need to be 'upgraded' while I am doing all of this?!!?!?

 

You wont get any codes if the rotor failed inside the opti.

Check for spark at the plugs and at the coil. If you dont find spark at the plugs but not at the coil like I bet you will then the opti is gone. Spinning the motor fast enough can cause the metal contact on the rotor to fly off. So the opti still generates spark... it just cant distrbute it anymore. If you do find thats the problem then all you need is a new cap and rotor.

 

Think he was trying to say don't at the plugs but DO at the coil. One place to start. Fuel pressure is another but doubtful it went out WHILE it was running.

Anyway, the check gages light will always stay on if the power is on but the engine is NOT running. The problem with the light is when the engine is running and it's on. To confirm simply measure the voltage at the fuse panel to ground. Has to be between 11.2 and 16.5 VDC.

 

Yeah sorry I meant what you said.

 

UPDATE:

We have Fuel pressure, we have coil firing, Valves are actuating (timing chain not broke!!!!). So I am left to think the Opti is dead.

If it was the ICM the coil would not fire, right?
I have a buddy's opti here I guess I will put on this week and see if that helps out.

 

When you take your old opti off I bet it will have a distinct and unhealthy rattle to it. IF the opti did in fact break at 5800 rpm then like I said its probably the rotor and you will know it.. hear it actually.

 

I wouldn't be to hasty to jump to that conclusion. Did you check for spark at a plug wire?

 

You can take your ICM to Autozone to be tested. It's totally free and takes all of two minutes.

Don't just replace parts- TEST!

 

I agree, but if the ICM was bad there would be no fire at the coil wire, correct?
I'll be interested to see the answer to speedygonzales question about:

 

I don't know for sure- it's possible that the ICM could be bad, but still work sometimes. I suggested the Autozone test because it's the only way I know of to rule it out completely. Trust me, I just went through a whole s***load of ignition troubleshooting, and if there's one thing I've learned it's this- you have to be methodical about testing components, and you can't move on to testing another component until you know 100% that the one you've just tested is working correctly.

 

What you described for symptoms in your first post is exactly what happened to me. I found the rotor laying in the bottom of my Opti when I disassembled it. I'll bet you do to. Or pieces of it.