I have a 93 z28. I was planning on doing just a heads/cam swap but after taking the heads off and seeing that a couple rings were bad it turned into a full rebuild. Anyway everything was just completed and the cam was broken in and now the car runs with the stock tune.. I am planning on doing a dynotune on the car, but problem is that I need to break in the engine now before dynotuning. Originally I was planning on just having my buddies shop just hook it up to a wide band and just do a quick street tune on the car for free, but then I found out that they don't have a chip burner (93's have a chip), SO, MY QUESTION IS, CAN I JUST DRIVE THE CAR RIGHT NOW AS IS WITH STOCK TUNING FOR 500 MILES FOR THE BREAKING IN THE MOTOR, OR WILL I RUN INTO PROBLEMS? IF SO, WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT TUNING FOR THE FIRST 500 MILES?? (OBVIOUSLY I DONT WANT TO SPEND MUCH, BEING THAT I WILL BE SPENDING $400+ IN 500 MILES FOR A DYNO TUNE.) I have read that idle, and light throttle acceleration A/F ratios are based off the O2 sensors and "hard programmed" into the ECU assuming you run it on closed loop... does that mean that I would be straight driving the car around for the first 500 miles without any tune what so ever, assuming I don't get on the gas much? How much is the stock tune off by... will there be detonation if I have to get on the gas a little as some point while driving the car? (last thing I want to do is f()ck up this motor this soon)

 

The question is.. Do you really want to wash your rings out on a fresh motor?

We do chips for 93's. I kinda specialize in them actually. We have a huge library of sample files for them and if you get it and happen to have a problem we will work with you to figure out what is the problem is and fix it.

 

what???? There isn't a problem with the tuning, there is no tuning yet, it is a stock ECU. The question was asking whether the stock ECU tuning would be OK to break the motor in with?? Ion is actually going to DYNOTUNE the car, but obviously running a car on the dyno requires beating on the motor which is why I dont want to do that until the engine is broken in. I'm not to familiar with a whole lot about tuning but I have read that idle and light load acceleration is based on "hard programming" that runs off the O2s, is that correct? How does everyone else break in their engines before dynotuning on here, or do most people just dynotune without breaking in their engines?? If the whole thing I read about the "hard programming" thing is true, what would even be the purpose of tuning is correct, why would anyone worry about tuning their car until the engine is broken in, being that you can't really beat on your car until the engine is broken in either way, well not without the risk of breaking something anyway you can't.

 

Break the engine in on the dyno. Pretty sure it shouldn't hurt anything but someone will probably say im wrong.

 

The problem with running the stock tune with a heads/cam 93 is that the car will run rich and wash the rings out.. This is what I was trying to tell you.

If Ion is going to do the dyno tune that you should also have him do you a base tune to break the engine in.

The alternative is running around town trying to break the engine in while running rich.

 

why would running rich wash out the rings? i would think that running lean would wash out the rings?? don't you normally run it pretty rich when tuning PE mode anyways, ussually around 12:1 or a little richer? I forgot to mention, I have $90 total seal ductile iron file to fit rings on my car.. I beleive these rings with the right gaps are used on cars with over a 300 shot of N20.

 

I really don't think that is a good idea to hit it with the 150 shot on the dyno without being broken in... but maybe someone else will help fill me in a little more.

Here's the part list for the car, maybe this will help a little:

-LE 1 heads (flow 262/183)

-LT1 ported intake with 58mm throttle bores

-LE 1 cam (mid 220s duration/ over .575 lift/ tigher than 110 LSA)

-ARP head bolts

-ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs

-ARP polylocs

-Comp 5/16 flat pushrod style guideplates

- NGK TR6 plugs

-COMP chromoly pushrods

-CSR Electric waterpump

-3600 Vigilante converter

-3.73 gears, on 10 bolt

-Transgo Shift kit

-hypertech 160 degree termostat

-groty 1 3/4 long tube headers

-summit X-pipe kit

-BBK 58 mm TB

-1.6 Comp pro mag 7/16 Rocker arms

-SVO 42 lb/hr injectors

-Cold Fusion Nitrous kit

-MSD window switch

-Cold Fusion fuel pressure safety switch

-walbro 255 fuel pump

-B&M trans cooler

-MSD ignition Coil

-UMI Lower Control Arms

-UMI panhard bar

-Moroso cold air intake

-BFG drag radials

-Clevite H main bearings

-Clevite H rod bearings

-Clevite cam bearings

-ARP main bolts

-Total Seal file to fit, ductile iron piston rings

-Moroso high volume oil pump

-GM Tall, polished valve covers

 

No running rich washes the oil from the cylinder walls.

PE is richer than stoich but no where near where you start washing rings.

 

When you run rich the unburned gas washes off the oil. If you dont want to break it in on the dyno i would do like alvin said and get a baseline tune to start with...if you can afford a dyno tune you should be able to afford a basline tune.

 

Who told you to go wtih such a large injector? You would be fine on a 30.. you could possibly squeeze in on a stock injector but a 30 woudl have been perfect.

 

yeah, i know their too big. I bought those off here when I first started buying stuff for my car, thinking I was going to run a dry 150 shot, but then I changed my mind and went with the wet kit and already had bought those.. Will I be able to lean those 42# injectors out enough to get my car running good?

 

You should be able to.. It will be more of a challenge but not impossible.

 

how much do baseline tunes generally cost anyway? I guess the only other option right now would be to do a "mail order" tune for the initial break in.