NEED help...building engine
NEED help...building engine
ok, i am building up the top-end on a stock bottom end..I need some help with decisions, etc.
im going with Elliotts LE2 package...
as far as timing chains, will any LT1 set work? I have a 93 Z, but the engine is out of a 94...the cam is right at .600 lift, should i run tied lifters...
basically i just need to know what all is different from 93 to 94 on the engine...and if i can run some of my 93 stuff like Timing Cover, etc. on the Shortblock... thanks
im going with Elliotts LE2 package...
as far as timing chains, will any LT1 set work? I have a 93 Z, but the engine is out of a 94...the cam is right at .600 lift, should i run tied lifters...
basically i just need to know what all is different from 93 to 94 on the engine...and if i can run some of my 93 stuff like Timing Cover, etc. on the Shortblock... thanks
Maybe delete this post and ask the question about those two issues (93 - 94 parts swap and lifters).
I haven't seen people saying they needed tied lifters but who knows, always better to be safe than sorry.
Hal
I haven't seen people saying they needed tied lifters but who knows, always better to be safe than sorry.
Hal
i had a 1994 block and took everything off and put it on a 1998 lt1 shortblock with no problems at all so i guess it should be fine... when i was rebuilting mine it reffered to everything as 93-94lt1 or 95+ lt1 so i think that 93-94 are the same? basically they are just 350 on bottom end and top end is were most of the difference is. i used my 94 timing cover in my 98 block.
i had a 1994 block and took everything off and put it on a 1998 lt1 shortblock with no problems at all so i guess it should be fine... when i was rebuilting mine it reffered to everything as 93-94lt1 or 95+ lt1 so i think that 93-94 are the same? basically they are just 350 on bottom end and top end is were most of the difference is. i used my 94 timing cover in my 98 block.
According to all my sources (I have googled) no one ever made a 98 LT1 block.
Also, the 93's were Speed Density, 93-94 had unvented opti's. The top ends have little difference between 93 and 94. I believe one of the differences is the intake.
Last edited by bombebomb; May 18, 2009 at 02:11 PM.
thats a negative on the 98 LT1 buddy...they passed away in 97...but u prob. meant 97...as far as the opti, etc..i dont think it would matter because i have a 94 block that is a rotating assembly only, no timing chain on it, etc. I was just concerned as far as everything bolting up correctly..and working properly...
93 and 94 engines are identical except for the intake manifold. The timing covers, timing set, lifters, and, Optispark drive are identical. They changed the front cover, optispark, timing set, etc with the 95 models. Swap anything you want. If you plan to stay with the stock waterpump and optispark you'll need to stick with a stock style timing set.
You can reuse the stock lifters or, if they're bad or old, you can switch to the LS2/LS3/LS7 lifters..they're the GM replacements now for LT1/LS1 engines. If you want an upgrade, you can use the Cadillac racing lifters or switch to the aftermarket units. If you move to the aftermarket parts with the bar tying the together you can get rid of the stock lifter guides and spiders.
You can reuse the stock lifters or, if they're bad or old, you can switch to the LS2/LS3/LS7 lifters..they're the GM replacements now for LT1/LS1 engines. If you want an upgrade, you can use the Cadillac racing lifters or switch to the aftermarket units. If you move to the aftermarket parts with the bar tying the together you can get rid of the stock lifter guides and spiders.
well to over simplify the process, you install the cam and cyl. heads, then put a "pushrod measuring tool" where you would normally install the pushrod and then find the point there the tip of the rocker is just to the *inboard* side of the valve stem tip (If I'm wrong someone please slap me and then correct me...it's been a while). When you turn the engine over by hand you should see a nice little pattern on the valve tip. Then without changing the length of your tool, measure how long it is and order the pushrod that are the same length. The biggest thing is getting the tips to contact in the right spot, otherwise you wear out your valves....quickly!
There are several methods, but the best is to convert the lifter you are using to a "solid" lifter and use an adjustable pushrod. The method is on here or maybe shoebox's site. I can't remember it exactly at this time.
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