Continuing my other thread, I thought I would post *strictly MY* opinion on how to get your automatic into low 12s or even high 11s with some luck. This guide will be based on my personal findings and my opinion on modifications with a good money invested / value ratio.

The basics:

Good catback (Magnaflow, Hooker, SLP, etc)
Good cold air induction kit (Moroso, K&N, SLP, AS&M, etc)

Headers:

Get long tubes if your local emission laws allow it.
Jet-Hots, Hooker LTs, Pacesetter or Kooks if you can afford them.
I would recommend coating for reduced engine bay temperature

Mid-lengths if you have to stay legal. AS&M, Mac, etc.

Might want to do engine mounts at the same time. (easier)
Polyurethane ones work great.

Again, my opinion:

forget porting MAF or aftermarket MAF or MAF ends
forget different injectors if you have under 100K miles or so (of course you can get a set of 30# SVOs if you can afford them)
forget bigger throttle body
forget aftermarket ignition
forget underdrive pulleys
forget aftermarket coil unless you know yours is bad
forget different wires if yours are fine and you can route them effectively without damaging from header heat

DO get a tune-up. (air filter, fuel filter, etc)
New plugs - I would recommend stock AC Delco platinums, but I've also had good luck with NGK TR-55s if you don't want to spend the money on platinums.

Gaskets and bolts for headers are up to you. I am using Percy's dead soft aluminum gaskets and they seem to work fine. Using stage 8 bolts and I personally don't like them. I will get Breslins next time.

Camshaft:

Don't get crazy with this. (Read the other thread)

I think the absolute BEST $invested/value ratio is the hotcam kit. Trust me, it will work fine and it will make good power.

218/224/112 is also a good cam. 224/230, cc305 are also two of my favorite.

Don't be cheap on internals. Get some good springs, non self aligning rockers, GMPP guideplates, hardened pushrods if you can afford them (not too expensive). If you don't want or can't afford a good timing set, get a replacement stock one and make sure to get at least a new CAM SPROCKET! I would get both of them new. They are not that expensive.
Might want to do the oil pan gasket at the same time. It's not that hard to do and you can install it over the oil pan from the outside. Replace all your timing cover seals and waterpump gaskets.

Opti:

If you have a suspicion yours is bad, get a replacement from Jason Cromer. Don't go with a cap and rotor kit! (my personal opinion again)

Oxygen sensors:
Not really relevant, but if yours are pretty old, get some new ones for the sake of your gas mileage. USE AC DELCO ONES!


Stall/gears:

I think the best combo for a street auto car is 3.73 gears / 2800 stall.
I would personally recommend a Vigilante or TCI stall. If you don't want to do it twice, DON'T be cheap on the stall and get a crappy stock restall.
If you go with a 12 bolt or 9 inch, get 3.90 gears or 3.89 respectively.
Good, non whiney gears are Motive gears. Get them installed by a professional with good repuation.

Tune: (important)

If you can afford a dyno tune, get it, however, most of popular cams have been programmed over and over again so you won't really need it. You can get a mail order tune from one of the popular tuners. (including me)

Tires: (important)

Automatics are much easier on our 10 bolts than 6 speeds. Get some BFG drag radials, Nittos, or you can give the Mickey Thompson drag radials a try.
I've used ET streets mounted on salad shooters on mine, but I did have to cut a bit of the bumper plastic to get them to fit.
Remember, if you don't have traction, it doesn't matter how much power you have because you will still get bad times.

Suspension work is up to you, but if you do all the above, you should be able to reach the subject's goal without any problems.

Hope this helps a bit.

I'll add/edit more later as things come to mind.

 

Great guide Ion thanks!!! Ive still got the stock plug wires, coil,opti, injectors, and throttle body. Unfourtuanetly i still have the stock stall and that is hurting me alot.

Also for mail order tunes does elevation make a difference because i think that my car is a little rich and im 5500 ft above sea level. You did my tune and other than that the car runs awsome. Once i get 1000miles on the engine i will email you for a new tune with rasied shift points.

Thanks
i hope people will take this guide seriously.
james

 

Great post Ion! Couldn't agree more...

That is basically the way I'm setting up my automatic LT1, however, I'm now in the process of trying to decide whether to go with a built 4L60E from FLP or do the T-56 conversion before I dig into the motor...

No matter what though, I've decided I want the mild Hotcam set-up for my car as it is a daily-driver and will rarely see the track (if ever at all). I've seen enough "proof" that it will be more than enough for me...

Mike

 

Ion your recent rants are very helpful and informative Hopefully stating some of these basics will prevent some of the common reposts everyday.

A few questions for you on your topic.

Whats the highest duty you want on your stock injectors and at what point do you commonly see them reaching that point, Cam or HP wise?

Would you venture to say that anything less than a ASP crank replacement pulley is a waste? I think ASP's replacement ones are a decent investment and yeilds good results. But if you get vibration or charging problems put the stocker back on.

I agree with basically everything else. Good thread.

-Dustin-

 

Thanks guys.
I just bought the ASP balancer replacement and I will give it a try as soon as I put the 6 speed in. (with dyno numbers to back it up of course)
All the other underdrive pulleys are junk in my opinion. Definetely not worth the install hassles and the aftereffects.

Some people will say to stay under 80% on your INJ DC. Although I will agree that it is not bad to follow that rule, I have personally seen many cars get close to 100% CALCULATED DC (that's what Datamaster shows, it's an estimation, not a real DC) on the dyno or on the street and they did this for many thousands of miles without any problems. In fact, I know at least 5 cars with over 30K miles on a cam install running more than 80% DC.

Mine showed 106% DC a few times, but it never ran lean. So I will say if you're under 360 RWHP (a range which will include all bolt-on/cam cars), you don't really NEED new injectors.

 

You might want to add

Poly transmission and torque arm mounts are simple ways to stiffen up the driveline. LCA brackets are nice ways to cut a nice .10 off your 60' time and make launching much more predictable.

There is such a thing as TOO much tire.

Also, while bigger throttle bodys, pulleys etc.. don't add a bunch of hp its the sum of all parts that make a car fast. If you can get them cheaply than it won't hurt is what I'm saying. Overall though they are not a good HP/$$ mod when purchased at a "New" price.

OH.. and you might want to throw AFPR as a somewhat useless thing if the car is tuned. I get so many surpized people who are buying a tune ask "what should I set the fuel pressure too" and I say "stock" hehe

 

I agree with your "opinion", especially when it comes to ETs. The hot cam should give you plenty of power; you just have to be able to put it to the ground which the auto can do with the right setup.

M-6 would be a bit touchier and perhaps a bit risky with the 10 bolt, but the power would still be there. JMHO

 

I'd easily be there I think. All I need is stall/gears/tires.

 

Good Info but midlenghts arent legal because they move the cat in some states...like jersey & cali. might want to change that to some slp shorties.

 

Ya, lol, like the 3 most important parts!

 

Good writeup. I didnt notice anything about ported heads......you think low 12's high 11's is possble with a hotcam and a 2800 stall? I would say that would be good for more around 12.5 unless you have some weight reduction.

 

2800 stall and hot cam usually puts ya somewhere in the 12.7's area

 

Did you guys forget to read the rest of the post? The parts talking about, Headers? Tires? Gears? BOLTons? and the part about a good TUNE?

 

Sub 12.5s are very possible with a hotcam and the other modifications I mentioned.

11s will be hard without weight reduction.

 

Yeah, and I'll never have money for them!