another header thread
08-04-2006, 08:18 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: RVA
Posts: 22
another header thread
Hey guys, Ive been reading this board for a while thought id finally join, this site has been a lot of help. I know that there is about 15 header posts a day and i did a seach and found alot of info maybe a little to much as im now confused. I just bought the headers that SLP has on clearence 1993 1 3/4 coated headers. They dont come with gaskets or bolts. So should i by the SLP gaskets or just go to Autozone and pick up a set and for bolts should I go Stage 8 or Breslin(sp?). I have a 95 so i know im gonna have to delete the egr and air systems, so ill need 3(?) egr block off plates, do i need anything to remove the air? Is there anything else that i need that i dont have listed? Also i dont have a tune yet so i know that will help and i might not be able to afford one right away so how drive-able will it be with the computer picking up the false knock. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST and thanks in advance for any and all help.
08-04-2006, 10:42 AM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 186
Re: another header thread
I'll try to tackle these for ya...
1) I personally recommend the Felpro 1406 gaskets (-I've never had a failure, plus the outer hooks make installation easy), but the bolt choice is up to you. I use stainless ARP bolts. The Stage-8's are a pain to install. The Breslins are very expensive, but at least you know they won't back out. Stay away from the black oxide bolts, as they tend to rust rather quickly.
2) You can order blockoff plates from http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com -- though you can make your own if you are crafty. Even with these, you'll still need to determine some way to block the AIR ports on the headers. You can try your luck with bolts from a hardware store, or you might have to mess with M16 or M22 oil pan drain plugs (cant remember which the earlier style fittings need). Others simply pinch/roll the AIR pipes with pliers & leave them installed, jb-weld pennies into the ports, etc... -not that I'd recommend the latter. Don't forget to cap off the AIR pump inlet on the air intake ductwork (prior to the MAF).
3) In my experience, the AIR system should not throw a code so long as there is a good fuse installed. The EGR system should not throw a code so long as the EGR solenoid is plugged in (on the rear-driver's-side of the intake) -- though you'll want to cap off the solenoid as not to induce a vacuum leak when it activates. Once you get a tune, you can disable these within the programming.
4) Some people invest in the LT4 composite valvecovers and/or the LT4 knock module to help reduce the chances of picking up false knock (due to increased valvetrain noise emitted from the header primaries). I would only do this if you are experiencing false knock, but you'd need a Scanmaster or datalogging software to determine that.
1) I personally recommend the Felpro 1406 gaskets (-I've never had a failure, plus the outer hooks make installation easy), but the bolt choice is up to you. I use stainless ARP bolts. The Stage-8's are a pain to install. The Breslins are very expensive, but at least you know they won't back out. Stay away from the black oxide bolts, as they tend to rust rather quickly.
2) You can order blockoff plates from http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com -- though you can make your own if you are crafty. Even with these, you'll still need to determine some way to block the AIR ports on the headers. You can try your luck with bolts from a hardware store, or you might have to mess with M16 or M22 oil pan drain plugs (cant remember which the earlier style fittings need). Others simply pinch/roll the AIR pipes with pliers & leave them installed, jb-weld pennies into the ports, etc... -not that I'd recommend the latter. Don't forget to cap off the AIR pump inlet on the air intake ductwork (prior to the MAF).
3) In my experience, the AIR system should not throw a code so long as there is a good fuse installed. The EGR system should not throw a code so long as the EGR solenoid is plugged in (on the rear-driver's-side of the intake) -- though you'll want to cap off the solenoid as not to induce a vacuum leak when it activates. Once you get a tune, you can disable these within the programming.
4) Some people invest in the LT4 composite valvecovers and/or the LT4 knock module to help reduce the chances of picking up false knock (due to increased valvetrain noise emitted from the header primaries). I would only do this if you are experiencing false knock, but you'd need a Scanmaster or datalogging software to determine that.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; 08-04-2006 at 10:47 AM.
08-04-2006, 11:21 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
Posts: 3,499
Re: another header thread
Well, first of all do you have dual or single cat?
Go to SLP Engineering site and look up your headers. And determine which kit is recommended. Both headers will require some welding at the Cat.
Take a look at the installation instructions on the site for your particular "kit" which would be #30027 (single cat).
#30029 Dual cat.
You may need a couple pieces from the kit, however I would buy the pieces separately---but along with the headers so that you don't pay twice for shipping and handling---. The rest of the kit which includes gaskets and bolts, I would not buy, but instead order some 1406 Felpros for the headers and some 1" SS ARP bolts from Summit.
If you can't get the instructions, I will FAX you a copy along with the list of crap in the kit (don't buy the whole kit because, in my opinion, the gaskets are crappy and the ARP bolts are the way to go.
Go to SLP Engineering site and look up your headers. And determine which kit is recommended. Both headers will require some welding at the Cat.
Take a look at the installation instructions on the site for your particular "kit" which would be #30027 (single cat).
#30029 Dual cat.
You may need a couple pieces from the kit, however I would buy the pieces separately---but along with the headers so that you don't pay twice for shipping and handling---. The rest of the kit which includes gaskets and bolts, I would not buy, but instead order some 1406 Felpros for the headers and some 1" SS ARP bolts from Summit.
If you can't get the instructions, I will FAX you a copy along with the list of crap in the kit (don't buy the whole kit because, in my opinion, the gaskets are crappy and the ARP bolts are the way to go.
08-07-2006, 10:13 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 631
Re: another header thread
I did this a couple weeks ago so heres some tips. You will need a 12" O2 extension (flat 4 pin) for the drivers side. Dont get locking bolts, they are a PITA to retighten after a few heat cycles (i got the breslins). Get 1" long ARPs. You will need some vaccume caps when you get rid of the EGR and AIR, i think its a 3/16 on the intake manifold and 5/8 on the plastic intake pipe. I found the 5/8 vaccume cap at a radiater shop. To block off the openings on the headers i went to a muffler shop to get the caps, but the guy at smj manufacturing (someone allready posted the link to the EGR block off plates) told me that you can get them at NAPPA, just email him for the part number.
08-07-2006, 11:04 AM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kantuckee Yo'
Posts: 4,405
Re: another header thread
The fel-pro 1406 gaskets are $16.00 at Autozone, get those.
The EGR block-off plates can be had off ebay. Dont forget to high temp RTV the surfaces.
I bought the ARP bolts when I did my headers, I now have stage 8 bolts which I highly reccomend. The ARP have loosened several times and cant be trusted IMHO. Also make sure you use 1" bolts for extra bite. Breslins are good too but I kike the double hex head on the Stage 8's, getting them installed was easier.
Remove the AIR if you want, the hardest part is getting that long tube out. The only way to easily do it is to cut into pieces unless you want to take the front of the engine apart. The pump is gravy.
The EGR block-off plates can be had off ebay. Dont forget to high temp RTV the surfaces.
I bought the ARP bolts when I did my headers, I now have stage 8 bolts which I highly reccomend. The ARP have loosened several times and cant be trusted IMHO. Also make sure you use 1" bolts for extra bite. Breslins are good too but I kike the double hex head on the Stage 8's, getting them installed was easier.
Remove the AIR if you want, the hardest part is getting that long tube out. The only way to easily do it is to cut into pieces unless you want to take the front of the engine apart. The pump is gravy.
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