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MSD opti LT1 Timing check
I have reciently installed a MSD optispark on my 383 LT1 and want to double check my timing at the balancer since the MSD unit can be adjusted +/-7 degrees. Since I have a keyed ATI balancer with timing marks on it, when I installed my MSD opti I fabricated uo a timing pointer using a piston stop. Now when I check the timing at the crank I read about 27 degrees, about the same timing reading I see on the scanner.
Do I want to make the two timing readings match eachother? Or do I want to set the balancer timing to as close to zero as possable with the MSD opti? Is not the scanner reading ignition timing and I get cam timing on the balancer? I am thinking way to far into this and making my self confussed and need a second oppinion. I just want to verify that the MSD unit is properly adjusted. |
The scanner is telling you how much advance (in crank degrees) the PCM is asking for, based on the timing tables. There is no feedback to tell the PCM where the spark is actually occuring. Your timing light flashing on your pointer (since the damper is on the crank) should match what the PCM is calling for. The PCM and the timing light value should match.
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The only reason to adjust the timing on the Pro Billet MSD is for non stock cams i believe. To set it to factory setting you do something like screw it in all the way and back the setting screw 2 1/2 turns. I don't remember for sure so check your manual to be sure.
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If he has a timing light and a scanner, he is setting the MSD correctly. Why use a "hit or miss" count of screw turns, when he has the actual timing right in front of him. Helps when you have a correctly marked damper and a correctly installed pointer, which he appears to have.
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I would not rely on the turn of the screw to be accurate on the MSD unit, anyway.
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Originally Posted by shoebox
(Post 4885621)
I would not rely on the turn of the screw to be accurate on the MSD unit, anyway.
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Here are some additional MSD timing adjustment issues to consider. When you add advance with the MSD Opti adjustment screw (screw CCW) an internal spring-loaded plunger is designed to push the optical module as the adjustment screw is backed-out. However, that plunger doesn’t always move the module, often it sticks (more often than not).
The only way to be sure the module has moved with the CCW adjustment, is to have the distributor open. I placed some reference marks on the housing (each side of the optical module) with a fine-point Sharpie then went from there with the timing. I’ve played with the timing some on my MSD and added a few extra degrees of advance. That really picked-up the performance on my car. Almost a tenth in the quarter. WD |
I have been using timing light and matched the timing that my scanner was reading @2000 rpm where the timing seemed to be more steady and easier to read. I agree and think that MSD should have never added this timing scew, its just added confussion and opertunity for mistakes. As you stated injuneer I also did not believe that the accuracy of 2.5 turns out would put me where I needed to be. So I fabed up a timing pointer and set it my self. If I remember correctly it ended up being out further then 2.5 turns.
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I did some work with the original version of the Electromotive SDI/Opti-Eliminator. To be sure I had the timing correct, I marked the toothed wheel that bolted to the stock crank hub with degree markings, and referenced it to the magnetic pickup, using a timing light. There was really no other way to do it. Currently, I use the Opti optical sensor to feed a MoTeC M48Pro ECU, and their 8-channel ignition driver. No way the system could be set up with any degree of confidence without an accurately place pointer and the degree marks on the ATI Super-Damper.
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