the n2o-n/a discussion has gone on for years. i think people should be educated on both sides/views and make their own decision. I personally would rather keep my car totally n/a

 

lol my mistake. n/a and all motor are two different things. id rather stay ALL MOTOR personally.

 

Gotcha, yeah me too. I'm still thinking I may want to put the nitrous back on the car for a little added suprise.

 

Gas mileage and 400rwhp cannot be two concerns that you want out of the same combo. I used to get 23ish driving back and forth to work or 28 pure highway, and now it is more like 14-15 going to work, and 18-19 on the highway. However, I probably do put my foot into it more now than I used to.

Any cam that hits 400rwhp is not going to be 'sleeperish', and if you want driveability with that much power, go for added cubes, as the lowend sure is nice driving around town.

There is no such thing as a low budget, 400rwhp, great gas mileage, sleeper LT1, not all motor atleast.

 

Most streetable would be a turbo kit w/ lower CR.

 

Below is a basic run down on the head and cam packages. The best package will depend on HP goals, budget, rear gears, stall size, future plans, emissions, driving style, tuning ability, existing components, etc., etc, A phone call would be best to make sure that we can talk through these things and get a package that will work like you are wanting it to and also make sure that you have the complimenting parts to make each set up work.

I offer cam and head packager from $1100 to $1650.

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LE1 cam pulls from 2000 to 6200 RPM and should make 370-390 RWHP with matching heads, 30 lb injectors, 52 TB, 1 3/4 LTs, No cats, good tuning, etc. The heads are ported using stock valves, performance valve job, back cut valves, CM 612 springs, retainers and locks, milling, cleaning and assembly. These heads flow about 255/180 with a 195 cc intake port and stock LT1's flow about 215/150 with a 170 cc intake port.

Heads and cam are $1100 (plus shipping). This has the RPM range of the Hot Cam, CC 305, etc. but makes more HP and TQ over these cams through out the entire RPM range. This will work with any gear and converter but the track times will be better with a stall and some gear.

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LE2 cam pulls from 2200 to 6500 RPM and should make 400-420 RWHP with matching heads, 30-36 lb injectors, 52-58 mm TB, 1 3/4 LT's, no cats, GOOD tuning, etc. The heads are ported and machined for larger Ferrea 2.00/1.56 valves, matching springs (Comp 987/977 springs and Ti retainers or Bee Hive springs and CM retainers depending on lifter type and EXACT cam specs), locks, locators, milling, cleaning and assembly. These will flow about 270/190 with a 205 cc intake port.


Heads and cam are $1650 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This has the RPM range of the CC 306 cam but will make more HP and TQ at peak and across the board. The REAL difference will be the LE2 cam will make TQ in the 2500 RPM range and the cc 306 doesn't start until way past this.

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LE3 cam pulls from 2600 to 6800 RPM in a 350 (2300 to 6500 RPM in a 383) and should make 410 to 430 RWHP with matching heads, 36-42 lb injectors, 58 TB or mono blade, GOOD tuning, etc, etc, etc. These are the same heads as above. This type of RPM requires a lot more spring pressure and will also need Comp R lifters to handle the spring pressure.

Heads and cam are $1650 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This cam is similar to the GM 847 cam but makes about 10 more HP at peak and starts making HP sooner. Makes more HP and TQ across the board. Needs gear and converter to work well in a 350. Pretty much a racing cam for the 350 or a good street cam that will act like the LE2 in a 383.

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Everyone has a different opinion about what is streetable and what a safe RPM limit is for their engine.

If you are looking for just cylinder heads and with out a cam, the heads are priced at . . . . .

$750 for the LE1 heads only
$1300 for the LE2 heads only
$1300 for the LE3 heads only

Give me a call and I can help you pick a combo that you will be happy with.

Lloyd Elliott-------------------------------972-617-5671----------------------------Red Oak Tx 75154
NightTrain66@msn.com

 

Thanks for that break down, I was unsure about the various LE combo's, but they seem very actractive now. Looks like I'll be calling you soon for a H/C package. Any recommendation about Stall /Gear combos for each package? Thanks.

-Dustin-

 

Ha that's from Lloyd Elliot himself. I am getting his 1.5 setup. LE2 cam with LE2 heads but cheaper valves and springs. its $1400.

Reccomends atelast a 3,000 stall and 3.73s with an auto

 

I definitely need to talk to Lloyd...what problems will i be looking at with a 140+k mile LT1?? It doesn't eat oil and runs better than most LT1s around me with half the miles on the odometer...

 

He will probably tell you new lifters. He says the stock bottome end is good for 6700 rpms or so but yours had higher mileage on it so i am not sure. I would say it's fine as long as it's been maintained. The worst that could happen would you would spin a bearing and have to rebuild, but that can happen to any car. My theory is when modding a car the real reason it breaks is because we drive it harder with the mods. Not becuase of added stress but because of it being raced. Im sure the added stress attributes to it, but i think it's mainly because of how people drive it.

 

I agree with that, I definitely give the car a little hell, but most of us do. I got it with 117k on the clock and it ran like a champ and was very well maintained, and I've kept it more than up to snuff since. I know it never had any real hard miles until I got it so I'm optimistic.

 

As long as you change the oil regularly, and maintain it good it will last forever. Well not forever, but long past your ability to resist modding it. Hell my dad got his V6 camaro at 57,000 miles and just changed the oil for the first time this summer. It now has 127,000 miles on it. He said he just added some oil every now and then. His low oil light is always on, as is his SES light. I told him he's an idiot . Just don't be like him and your car will be fine.

 

buddies have 2 LT1's. both with over 180k miles. one has a big cam on stock heads and the other is about to have the LE3 package. these engines are built to last.

 

I say its always a crap shoot and you better be prepared to pay to fix it if your number comes up.

I've heard of lots of people running super high rwhp N/A motors for years, yet some people spin bearings a week after cam installs or like me, 3,000 miles after you bought your bone stock to the air filter car.

So, like I say... I think the motors are very stout but there are no guarantees in this life, especially with cars. I recently installed a cam on my car but I accept and understand the inherent risk.

 

the lt4 combo says good for 425 hp plus you get the intake also it is a little pricey though summit carry s it