Has more to do with LT1 specific, so its here rather than in the drivetrain forum...

I just installed a McLeod pressure plate and single disk for shifts up to 7500rpm, and I kept the stock hydrolics in it. My problem is that the release point is all the way to the floor at the bottom of the pedal, and I have to be either moving a little or i have to really slam it into reverse for it to go in gear. It seems like the clutch is slightly dragging maybe. 1-6 gears are fine, but are still noticibly harder to get into with this new clutch. I bleeded my slave cylinder that pushes in the clutch fork, but no difference. Any one else have this problem? I only put 320 miles on it so far, still breaking in. Another note, I might still need half a quart or so of tranny fluid, but that shouldnt have anything to do with getting it in gear, does it? I'm pretty sure i can get an adjustable master cylinder to fix it, but I KNOW people have used this clutch and had no need for it.

 

I have the exact same clutch in my car, and never had any problems with it, my friends and I installed it and never bled anything, just refilled the tranny with synthetic ATF and all was good.

 

I'm no drivetrain expert, but i've heard of clutches not disengaging all the way if the flywheel wasn't properly shimmed to make up for the lost surface when it was cut.

Did someone resurface your flywhel when it was installed?

 

1.Shim flywheel
2. First make sure your slave is hard!

 

If ya hung the tranny on the disc when installing(half way in and took a rest brake) then it's possible to have bent the disc. being at the bottom is normal for a new clutch and will come up when it wears,but the no shift ain't right and indicates it not fully releasing for whatever reason.

 

i did have it resurfaced from o'reillys, I didnt beleive i needed to shim it, but I suppose that could be the problem

 

Your PP isn't the problem.It's the disc not being true or it's not releasing all the way-- clutch hyd system--.

 

What exactly does this mean? Is the slave supposed be rigid in its cylinder, and not supposed to flop around when bleeding it?

 

I was really disapointed with the Mcleod clutches I have had. I broke the center springs out of two of them. This is with my old cam and i was probably only making about 330 at the wheels. I had the same 7500 rpm disk that you have. The first one lasted about a month, the next lasted about 6 months. They replaced it free the first time, the second time I didnt even try.

Now I have the SLP clutch, it isnt quite holding with the the cam and heads now. I am really getting sick of doing clutches in this car. I think the next clutch is gunna be the spec stage 4 with the unsprung hub.

 

The rod on the slave cylinder needs to be hard as a rock. To be honest with you the best way I've found to bled the clutch was with it out the car. It's very hard to bleed the clutch in car because of the bubbles... I even hooked up a power Mitty vac connected to a 200psi air line up to the clutch system... that didn't do much at all... my best results were with the hydrualic system out the car...

 

the stage 4 my buddy had was a POS. it lasted about 5K easy miles.