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LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
I'm working on a 94 LT1 with low miles and I believe its all factory stock never rebuilt from what I know. And I tried getting the ball out from underneath the rear main cap but it won't come out I tried hammering a 1/4" rod from the top of the block but it feels like it is pressed in as it won't come out.
Has anyone come across a pressed in check ball?
Is this OK?
Or is it better if it were loose?
All input is appreciated.
Thank You
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
when I did mine I dropped it into the oil hole and tapped it in with a drift until it bottomed out. The hole is tapered with a dead-stop ridge inside. You want to make sure the ball is set all the way in
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
The book says::
Make sure the ball is clean, and drop it into this oil gallery hole. Using a brass flat-nosed drift and a plastic hammer, tap the ball down into the hole until it stops and is very snug. Make sure it's fully seated.
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
^^^^...aka "The Bible"
Op, make sure you are trying to get it out the right direction....(read from top of motor, it comes out the hole where the main rear cap would go over)
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
Thanks for all the input guys.
As you can see the block is all machined, clearanced for a 396 and cleaned so I did tap from the right end as I mentioned. The threaded rod I used to tap it with was flexing so I'll try and find a solid larger rod to punch it out and reclean the oil passages.
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
Thanks for the compliment.
I’m kinda on a beer budget on this project, so I got OK parts not top of the line but not cast junk either.
EAGLE forged 3.875” stroke crank
EAGLE forged 6.0” rods ARP 2000 bolts
4 Bolt Splayed Mains
MAHLE forged -18cc dished pistons & rings around 11.0 to 1 compression 94 octane Pump Gas
TOOL STEEL pins
COMP CAMS 292XFI
ARP hardware through out
KING HP bearings
MELLING HV oil pump
STAGE IV ported polished heads and intake
STAINLESS VALVES
2 Stages of NO2 (throttle body plate 200hp & Single nozzle 100hp)
58mm throttle body
Adustable FPR and HV Pump
MSD 6AL and Multi Retard Box
Long Tube Headers
Lots of other goodies I can’t think of right now.
Maybe I’ll start another thread of this built if there’s any interest.
In this built I’ll remove the oil passage ball instead of just pressure washing the oil passages lol.
Last edited by 2FastZeder; 08-05-2018 at 04:04 PM.
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
are you sure the ball is not already out and your rod is hitting the "lip" the ball would normally seat to once installed from the main cap side?
you would know if a coat hanger goes all the way through
The oil passage is a "interference" fit and tapered for that ball. Maybe the motor was apart before and someone really smashed (distorted) the check ball making it now very tight
Re: LT1 Rear Main Cap Oil Gally Check Ball Pressed In???
Originally Posted by Chimera96
are you sure the ball is not already out and your rod is hitting the "lip" the ball would normally seat to once installed from the main cap side?
you would know if a coat hanger goes all the way through
The oil passage is a "interference" fit and tapered for that ball. Maybe the motor was apart before and someone really smashed (distorted) the check ball making it now very tight
Ya I cut the rod I was using down some and the ball finally came out.
I would have assembled a good portion today if I had assembly lube, holiday today in Canada prevented me from that.
Thanks
08-03-2018, 06:27 PM
