Where to start
-GM 10 bolt I have heard both good and bad junk it or what
I am rebuilding it now since dont have money to put a new one in.
-Having engine rebuilt with some upgrades like forged pistons, hardened push rods, rocker ( my mech sadi something about slotted or horseshoe) roller, comp cam (forgot #'s), electric water pump. My mech told me to get headers, but I am almost out of money I was looking at what I could afford and they all were 1 5/8" pri and 2 1/2" collector. is it worth spending the rest of my money? am I going to get any gains.
- Also should I get new injectors? Someone told me to get the ford motorcraft 30lb because they are just as good and cheaper???????
- What about heads any ideas?
I want to stay NA.
- Do you guys have any advise for next steps. Thanks for the help.

 

Traction kills the 10-bolt. Once you start launching hard at the track with a sticky tire, it's days are numbered. If you don't plan on using a drag radial, slick, etc., then in all likelihood you'll be fine (but you won't get the numbers you would get with a sticky tire). I personally have broken FOUR 10-bolts and finally upgraded to a 9", which I should have done a LONG time ago.

Your second question is very unclear. Might I suggest doing a search for each individual issue? The best bang for your buck headers available are Pacesetters - around $400 or so for the headers and y-pipe. Like I mentioned, do a search - that should be your next step.

 

I was reffering to would it be worth buying the headers. Would i feel gains from them?

 

Absolutely. On a cam-only setup, gains of 25+ HP over stock manifolds can be had.

 

Thanks
the problem that i am having is all of the headers i can afford have about the same size pri tube and collector as my stockers are they still going to worth it?
how much modification would need to be done for a set of long headers, because i dont have a shop to work in. ie what about the egr or air?

 

you can get headers that will retain the air and egr and you can get "race" headers, which eliminate the air and egr. with this you need block off plates for the back of the intake and you will need your pcm tuned for their removal. if you live in an area that tests emissions and you plan to drive it on the street... you might want to keep them. otherwise ditch them out. a few pounds of weight savings.


ps... i have a set of hooker shorty headers with air/egr fittings and y-pipe with single cat bung for sale... if your car has two cats, these won't work if you plan to retain the cats, if it only has one, then you could use them. (1995 was the year gm started switching over to two cats, starting with cars sold in california.)

 

Hey I really appricatenhebhelp with this stuff. I only have one cat and I was going to put in a test pipe. How much do you want for the heaeders and y pipe?

 

pm sent

 

Like i said earlier I have to rebuild me 10 Bolt due to money reasons. I am looking at gears and i know that I want to stay with 3.42 but there is different series how do I know what series to chose?

 

it's a matter of what carrier is in your car... if it came with the 3.42from the factory... it's a 3 series carrier.

 

Just curious, but why do you want to stay with 3.42s? If you want to do that, I suggest you look for a rear-end out of a junkyard or some place local. It'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than the $500 needed to replace the gears in your current axle.

 

yeah I called our local oick and pull they wanted 400 for one that was in a front end collision. i am in socal so **** is hella expensive