ridiqls

Ah I see.

So say I got the engine down to the block with the heads pulled off here in my garage. Am I visually able to inspect it to see if I can get by with rings/gasket at that point or would it almost always still need to go to a machine shop?

I have a guy locally that says he'll do the work for cheap and he has done engines for other LT1s so I trust he knows what hes doing but I dont want to be in a position where I don't know what he did/skipped because we didn't end up discussing some particular detail

Pullngz

It would be foolish to not at the very least get it cleaned and checked for cracks.The cost is minimal, and you know you have a good foundation. I personally wouldn't spend any money or time, on a motor that wasn't sure if the block was good.

If you put it all back together, and it doesn't run right, you back in the same boat you're in now. Only pissed off, because you wasted time and money for nothing, and have to do it over.

It's been awhile, but I would think $150 would cover it.

ridiqls

Very good point, I would hate to do it again.

So aside from potentially having to bore it, cleaning, checking for cracks, new rings, new bearings, potentially new piston heads (if bored), grinding the crank, checking the rod length, studs, am I missing anything else?

What about freeze plugs and cam bearings? Are those typically re-done by the machine shop when they strip everything down to clean it?

I'm trying to figure out, what am I looking at in terms of price range for a rebuild from just rings/bearings, all the way to replacing piston heads, etc.?

I would like to do as much as possible in my garage so I can learn and get familiar with my car and also cut down on labor.

I got a quote for around $1500-1750 for a FULL rebuild, they would handle all the cleaning, pressure test, honing etc. and basically refurbish the engine to a completely new engine at this price, including a 3-way valve job for the heads, etc.


Originally I was hoping this was a head gasket issue and to maybe machine just the heads for a few hundred $ with me doing most of the labor, so that stretches out my budget quite a bit.

Any chance a refresh can be as low as $500-800 if the rest of the engine is in good health?



I'm also looking at craigslist to find an used motor to throw into the car. I really hate how difficult it is to do a compression test on these cars with the engines inside bc it makes it that much harder to pick up an used engine

Injuneer

ridiqls

Thanks Im going to order this.

Would you recommend this book over the Max performance one? https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/ho...s/fgqpf3h0k02s

They look kind of similar. If I were to throw in a small aftermarket cam would it in any way affect the normal procedures found in this book?

Chimera96

I am not familiar with the Max Performance one....But I do have, and use frequently, the one Injuneer recommended

Putting in a non stock cam is the same procedure noted in the book

ridiqls

Thanks, just bought the book!

Injuneer

Chimera96

if you are tearing the motor down to bare block (recommended) the machine shop should hot tank and clean the block then mic it to see if the cyl just need hone or bore. Like a bore but you may get lucky with just a hone.

At that point new freeze plugs and cam bearings. "maybe" the cam bearings are OK but you won't know until the block is stripped down

Also either you or the machine shop (you should do this) there is a check ball in the oil passage at the rear main bearing hole you punch out from top of motor and re-install after block has been thoroughly cleaned. Not doing so you will not get the oil passages clean. The book you are buying covers this. Some shops may not know about this so make sure you do.

If you go 383 you will need a new crank, rods & pistons. That will be more $ than just using your stock crank that will either just need a polish or a grind. If #2 & 6 cyl cause the need to bore than you will need new pistons which will make it a 355 ci motor.

The block may need "decking" if it is not dead nuts flat and the heads likely need decking also if you blew a head gasket assuming they are not cracked

ridiqls

Thanks that makes sense. This book is quite long so Im gonna get started on it.


So I found this locally for sale listed at $3000:

"Brand new all forged internals. Lt1 block bored to 383 cubic inches. Forged h beam rods. Forged Diamond blower pistons. Also included is a set of forged pistons for a naturally aspirated motor. Custom Schneider cam. Forged stroker crankshaft. Lt4 timing chain set. All arp bolts. Mildly ported aluminum heads. Fresh high end valve job. Stiffer springs. Hydra rev kit. New lifters. Oliver billet splayed main caps. Clevite bearings. Assembled by Bostick racing engines. Was going in a 96 impala ss. I have 6k into this build. All high end parts. Willing to sell it all for 3k. Parts alone cost that much. Willing to trade for body and paint work. Fits any 93-97 Lt1 or lt4 powered car. Call or text with any questions. At 8 psi boost should be 600rwhp easily. This exact motor build on 10 psi put down 735 rwhp. This has a little better cam in it than that one. $3000 or best cash offer. Serious buyers only please."


I dont have any plans to go turbo or supercharger so I don't know if those pistons are going to work. But is this a good deal? I asked him for more info on the crankshaft and cam profile so Im waiting to hear back

Chimera96

that motor sounds like it is set up for low compression to use with a power adder (SC). Running it NA it would be a pig without swapping out the pistons (possibly needing different rings also)

The vague description on what heads and cam needs more clarity.

If you are going to spend that kind of $ look into a short block from either ERE or Golen. Both, especially ERE, are well regarded LT1 builders. I bought the later and have about 45k mi on that motor now

ridiqls

As an update to this thread, I dropped the engine out of my camaro. I also picked up a freshly rebuilt LT1 from a performance engine shop with 0 miles on it. It's got new everything, pushrods, lifters, forged pistons, clevite bearings, etc.

Now, I have to pull the oil pump and drive off my old engine, swap it over to the new engine, swap all the accessories and pressure wash everything because there's a bunch of grease everywhere on the kmember.

I do have a question.. I figure since the engine is out of the car I'm going to throw in an LT4 hot cam. They're cheap, I found one brand new in box for $150 and it'll just give me a few more horses. I don't plan on going big cam at this time. From what I'm reading I will need upgrade valve springs. Do I have to get 1.6rr also or can I just remain stock?

Also, I looked at the Lt4 hot cam kit and there are keepers and bunch of small pieces. Would I need those or can I just replace the springs and call it a day since the engine is a fresh build with all new parts?

Chimera96

LT4 hot cam is "ok"...rather old technology compared to newer cam grinds but a proven performer in the LT1. Like any cam 1:6 RR will allow more lift so you get a little more bang for the buck out of the cam. It works with 1:5 rockers, just more HP with 1:6. If you have stocked stamped rockers on the new motor I would get 1:6 RR. Comp Ultra Pro Mags. SA would be "ok"...but most, including me, went NSA and guide plates. You would need hardened (chromoly) PR though if the new motor does not have them

The springs in the LT4 cam kit are for the LT4 which had lighter sodium filled valves. They are weak with the heavier solid valves in the LT1 so not recommended. If you knew what kind of springs the new motor that would help. Crane 10308 would be good but the ones in the new motor may be fine depending what they are

On the oil pump, get a ARP or Miloden solid oil pump drive shaft vs re-using the stock one. They are around $10-$12. The stock ones have a plastic colar which after aging gets brittle and can crack n re-install. Also be VERY careful on re-installing the WP drive gear. That one small hold down bolt will easily crack the plastic top of the drive gear so just be careful. Use blue loc tite on the bolt and just use a 1/4" drive and lightly hand tight it with the ratchet. TQ is very low on that bolt can't remember if it is in lb or not on TQ but is very low

ridiqls

Wow thanks for the tip. As far as the new motor goes, it has forged pistons but everything else is stock including the stamped stock rocker arms and new valve springs.

So as I understand it, I would need to get 1.6 NSA rocker arms and guide plates, hardened push rods, and new springs preferably not the Lt4 ones since they are a bit weak. but I don't need need new retainers or seals, got it.

The new motor came with a brand new oil pump drive and oil pump, I think it's made by Mellen (part 55?) so definitely will be changing out those with new units. Thanks for the heads up on the bolt, I'll go slow on that.

My impact gun took a dump on me so I'm trying to figure out how I can get these crank bolts off without the crank turning. I might just have to pick up another impact even though I was saving up for a high torque down the line.

Chimera96

If you can find out what kind of springs are on this new motor they "may" be OK for the hot cam. The new motor should have new valve stem seals so those should be OK....unless you wind up changing springs that require a different spring locator than what you currently have sometimes removing the locator you need to pull the valve stem seals

Valve spring locators, retainers and keepers are not always "interchangeable" with other springs unless the replacement spring is same size. Often springs use the stock 7 degree keepers though.

If you are going to get RR its a good idea to go with 7/16" vs 3/8" RR studs (stock). No cost difference between 3/8 or 7/16 RR. ARP makes RR studs. If getting guide plates get RR studs for guide plates. They have a shouldered bottom for guide plates. ISKY adjustable guide plates are, IMHO, better on the LT1 heads. They allow each RR to be aligned dead nuts center vs the fixed two valve (intake/exhaust) type

If the new motor has a Mellig 55 in it than just leave that pump in it

If motor is out just bolt the flexplate on crank and use a screw driver in one of the holes that will hit the block that will prevent motor from turning if trying to get damper bolts off If its a stick car with flywheel you can do the same thing using one of the PP bolt holes. Just stick a screw driver through it and when motor rotates the screw driver will jam against block preventing motor from turning