Just wondering what everyone thinks about putting a cam in with 111k miles. Also, I see used cams for sale, is it unwise to install one? I see where some people install the cam, and the motor loses oil pressure shortly after and cooks the rod bearings. Is this from not replacing the cam bearings at the same time? Can the cam bearings be replaced without pulling the motor? Right now I get 50psi WOT and 25psi at idle on 10w-40 Yamalube.

Thanks,
James

 

You need to pull the motor out to change the cam bearings. Why are you wanting to just change the cam with a used cam? It would not be wise to use a used cam with that many miles on it.

 

I figured with a used cam it would already be "broke-in". With my mileage, am I going to need new bearings with a new cam?

 

I know of persons changing cams at 130,000+ miles w/o changing bearings and had no problems... And the opposite, no oil pressure...

Its a 50/50 chance with no issues....

 

to replace the cam the front of the motor is comming off, water pump, opti, all assories, timming chain cover and timming chain. The intake manifold and everything that goes with it, valve covers, push rods,spider, lifters,oil pump drive. O while I'm in here I probly should change this or that, O sh** this or that broke. A lot of work for a used cam.

 

yes you should. I had a two-part failure of the oil pickup ring and my cam bearings when i did cam only swap. both = zero oil pressure and a not running engine =/

 

you dont need new cam bearings for a new cam.... Roller cams do not need broke in as a flat tappet would. Because they have roller lifters that roll on the camshaft. Flat tappet cam and lifters are exactly that, flat on flat and must be run for 15 to 20 mins at a rpm around 2500.

I have done many many cam swaps over a 25 year time frame and have never had any problems. I have only done 2 LT1 cam swaps with no problems.
Just take your time. A valve spring change would be a good choice even if your going to install a stock cam as the valve springs get week over a long period of time and are not to bad to install. Curt

I do not mean to step on anyones toes. this is just: imo

 

i bought a used custom ground cam and my car has 137k miles. I replaced all the other valvetrain parts, the lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, timing chain, springs, and the necessary accessories with the springs. I didn't replace the cam bearings or anything like that, but so far I haven't had any problems, my tranny broke twice and the motor is still haulin ***.

I also had to replace my optispark but that was cuz a dumb *** friend of mine spilled coolant on it, but that was one of those "O sh*t, this broke" items haha

 

I put a used cam in my motor when it had over 110k miles, no problems

 

IMO most of the quick bearing failures after cam swaps are mechanic error. Real easy to gouge a cam bearing putting in the cam, or to drop dirt in and have it eat a bearing.

 

If the cam is in good shape then why not use it??? My buddy ran consistent 12.40's all last year on a used CC503 he got off somebody on this board.

 

Thanks guys. Is it necessary to replace the lifters when putting in a cam? Definatly holding off until this car isn't a daily driver anymore. Hell, I may buy an extra motor to hop up and swap engines... I hate working under the hood of these cars, there is no room.

 

when you remove your current cam, take a look at your front cam bearing and whatever other ones you can see. if they appear to have a good bit of wear, i would probably replace them..but since you have pretty good oil psi theyre probably ok...depending on what cam you plan on going with with will decide if you need new lifters and springs..what lift will this cam be and whats the rpm range?

 

Looking into the cc306, 1.6 NSA rr, chome-moly pushrods (what length??), LE1 head w/ stainless valves and beehive springs. I just saw a user post almost the exact setup I want for my car, but I had already spent all my cash ordering an S60.

 

FYI: if you go with the cc306 i dont believe you will be able to run 1.6 rr's because you wont have enough valve length for the installed height you will need for the lift of that cam with 1.6 rr's. That cam is fine with 1.5 rr's, if you do the LE1 or LE2's i would spend a little extra and get a LE custom grind cam. You wont be sorry, its worth quite a HP bump over the dated grind of the cc306. Dont get me wrong the cc306 is still a good cam, i am running that cam also. But the custom grind is the way to go.
I do question the split, intake and exhaust, grind of the cc306 and how much it kills the dynamic compression.
Maybe this is a discussion for another topic......
Curt