ideling high
Yes, there is an idle adjustment screw behind the throttle body blade lever. It is a hex screw.
By doing so you may affect your Idle Air Control valve. If it pegs out your car may run poorly.
By doing so you may affect your Idle Air Control valve. If it pegs out your car may run poorly.
Is your engine stock? If so...and it's idling high...then you have a problem. I would guess some type of intake or vacuum leak(but it could be other things). Check your hoses connected to the intake manifold for cracks, leaks, and dry rot. Is it throwing any codes?
Last edited by ACE1252; May 31, 2009 at 05:29 AM.
i tried the screw on the back of the tb it will come all the way out the trottle lever didnt move back even when i pushed on it. Also it idels at 1000 which where i have seen others idel at maybe thats as low as they go?
Generally, the tachs on these cars are 100-200 rpms inaccurate. Mine "looks" to idle around 900-1000 rpms, but when I look at it with my computer...it's idling at ~800.
Last edited by ACE1252; May 31, 2009 at 09:49 AM.
Factory idle speed setting depends on the transmission - and you haven't told us anything about your car. Stock programming, fully warmed up engine:
M6 - 800 rpm
A4 in neutral - 650 rpm
A4 in gear - 550 rpm
Idle speed is increased when the coolant is not up to normal temperature, and when the car is moving - e.g. coast down in neutral.
M6 - 800 rpm
A4 in neutral - 650 rpm
A4 in gear - 550 rpm
Idle speed is increased when the coolant is not up to normal temperature, and when the car is moving - e.g. coast down in neutral.
Helpful hint: Why not add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods. That way it will appear at the bottom of every post, and you won't have people asking you for the info, so they can help you.
Go to the red task bar at the top of every page, and click on "User CP", then select "edit signature".
Go to the red task bar at the top of every page, and click on "User CP", then select "edit signature".
The throttle blades do not control the idle speed. The IAC(idle air control) valve handles the idle. It is computer controlled and there is no real user adjustment to it. You can change the idle speed, but you have to program a different idle speed in the car's computer.
Generally, the tachs on these cars are 100-200 rpms inaccurate. Mine "looks" to idle around 900-1000 rpms, but when I look at it with my computer...it's idling at ~800.
Generally, the tachs on these cars are 100-200 rpms inaccurate. Mine "looks" to idle around 900-1000 rpms, but when I look at it with my computer...it's idling at ~800.
Hal
Kind of incorrect. The IAC has to be .6 volts to idle correctly. That's the blue wire on the round connector on the front/left hand side of the TB (I believe). To adjust the IAC, you loosen its screw then turn it just a tad till you get the voltage right. You can lengthen the slot a bit with a drill to allow extended adjustments. Not uncommon to have to do this.
Hal
Hal
More than "kind of incorrect"....
Even the TPS doesn't have to be at .6V for the system to function. The PCM can accept 0.20 - 0.90V and set the baseline 0% TPP from there.
What would possibly inspire you to resurect a thread that is going on 10 months old, to correct someone?
Even the TPS doesn't have to be at .6V for the system to function. The PCM can accept 0.20 - 0.90V and set the baseline 0% TPP from there.
What would possibly inspire you to resurect a thread that is going on 10 months old, to correct someone?
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