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A 383 with good heads and a teeny cam will make great torque and still pull 400 or better RWHP, and pass smog with EASE.
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Re: Go to nu-tek
Originally posted by BlkScreaminMach You dude, it isnt about the CID you have its the cam, its the overlap and duration that determine how much you suck in, and how much just blows out the exhust. Most people do a high lift, LOW duration and overlap custom gind cams. Nu-tek motorsports is a great company, they are building my motor. We have emissions in CT but they are VERY strict, but strict enough. BUt i will be doign a 383 stroker with a LT4 hotcam. Im using my already P&P'ed heads still, with the cam on a STOUT bottom end. Callies Dragon Slayer 4340 Chromoly Steel crank 6" eagle H-beam rods SRP high silicon pistons Retianing my heads and cam and valve train peices, for 5K, I get a reletivly bullet proof engine, quality parts, fulll assembly and shipping, If you want details, feel free to email, i ahve the list im doing with parts and labor all included. Parts total: 2200 Labor 2600 or so Shipping, both ways 250 i think the pistons should be forged before all else for his motor- I dont think anything needs to be, but why a strong ass crank and rods and relativly weak pistons. good enough? yes/ bullet proof? far from. studs - Eagle 4340 forged steel 3.75" stroke crank - Eagle 4340 forged H-Beam connecting rods - SRP forged pistons (flat top/dish top depending on application) - JE Plasma Moly ring set - Clevite 77 race bearings - Melling high volume oil pump - Fully balanced and blueprinted - Custom hydraulic roller camshaft designed for customer’s goals - GM LT4 Extreme Duty timing chain set with oversized crank sprocket - Competition Cams Pro Magnum full roller rockers - Competition Cams chromemoly pushrods - Ported LT1/LT4 intake manifold - Competition Cams Pro Magnum roller lifters - Fully assembled crate engine $5890 including shipping- I'm 100% sure they will take off $890 if you dont want the stage 2 heads seeing how they are $2500 if you purchase them seperatly if you just tell them "Hey i already have a great set of heads". And with this you get everything forged, and you get rockers and all that. If your paying $5000 for your bottom end, this combo is definatly worth the extra $890 you get a $2600 head package and valvetrain with it. plus forged pistons. I dont want to start a pissing match between these companies because they are both great, and comared to SLP and Racenet- Their customer service is like having God on speed dial. I just honestly think that for the buck, this is an amazing engine combo :metal: ps you started the pissing match:p :p :p :p :p :cool: |
Lol
Lol, looks like with that many green heads you drank too moch *rofl*
The srps are forged but they got alot of silicon, the other alternative was the JE blower piston, they have like 1% vs. SRP's 15% composistion ( i went to a local shop that recommneded JE's over SRP, cus of the silicon comp). But they are 300 more, and the GMHTP project car "Thunder Chicken" which had a 396 MTI stroker and used these same SRP pistons and after 50k miles they were mint. So i didnt feel bad about getting those. Also the JE's will have siginifgant piston slap when its cold cus it has to expand due to the less silicon. Eagle cranks are JUNK, yes they are made out of the same 4340 chromeoly steel processing but their machining work is pitiful, one place i shopped at stated that for every 1 Callies DS crank thats bad they get like 7 Eagles, but recommneded the Eagle still cus they cant get a good price with Callies. But they "promised" that i wouldnt get a bad crank...... conforting huh? I was thinking though of a rod upgrade, from the Eagle, but i heard great things about the H beams and i already hammered out the details with Nick Norris, Feel free to cal him, he loves to answer questions, and very personable. The package i was going with was the Street and Strip 383, not the budget., and its more than worth it. |
Re: Lol
Originally posted by BlkScreaminMach Lol, looks like with that many green heads you drank too moch *rofl* The srps are forged but they got alot of silicon, the other alternative was the JE blower piston, they have like 1% vs. SRP's 15% composistion ( i went to a local shop that recommneded JE's over SRP, cus of the silicon comp). But they are 300 more, and the GMHTP project car "Thunder Chicken" which had a 396 MTI stroker and used these same SRP pistons and after 50k miles they were mint. So i didnt feel bad about getting those. Also the JE's will have siginifgant piston slap when its cold cus it has to expand due to the less silicon. Eagle cranks are JUNK, yes they are made out of the same 4340 chromeoly steel processing but their machining work is pitiful, one place i shopped at stated that for every 1 Callies DS crank thats bad they get like 7 Eagles, but recommneded the Eagle still cus they cant get a good price with Callies. But they "promised" that i wouldnt get a bad crank...... conforting huh? I was thinking though of a rod upgrade, from the Eagle, but i heard great things about the H beams and i already hammered out the details with Nick Norris, Feel free to cal him, he loves to answer questions, and very personable. The package i was going with was the Street and Strip 383, not the budget., and its more than worth it. i have a cast crank and its fine to 700hp. dude, when they said its junk- they meant for like superhardcore drag racers an eagle forged crank is FAAAAAR crap crap for him, you or I. and these srp are forged from Cmotorsports. |
Originally posted by treyZ28 remove and reinstall? |
WOW :D Thanks for the replies. WOW I knew theres alot of stuff to be done BUt you guys went DEEP DEEP lol. ITs all good though. I talk to my homie and LOOKS like im just gonna mess with a stock rebuild. WITH Forge pistons and I guess IM gonna need to get someRODs too. IM not lookin to spend a SKIT load of money I take it I can get PISTONS and RODS for Under a GRAND Hopefully. IM lookin for a STREET/STRIP/ SHOW car type. This car is still my Daily Driver. I HAD plan ON droppin IN a nice cam. What kinda of CAM do you guys RECOMENED??
Thanks CHris From so cali LT1CST@aol.com |
that depends... if you're staying stock heads and you've got the whole emisions crap to deal with get a zz3 cam 1) has a big split i/e wise 2) has good lift with 1.6 rockers for stock heads 3) is really really good for a stock CR in regards to dynamic compression ratio. it might seem puny to you but if you're staying stock heads i promise it will perform flawlessly. however you do need to have the end of it turned down to work in an lt1. and a longer dowel installed (not sure but more than likely dont know car year) if you dont think this is a good cam choice read this it will explain part of why i chose this cam.
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html copy and paste the other thing is the cost scroggins dicky has it for 175 they call it the zz4 now the durations @ .50 are 208/221 and a 112lsa not sure but i think it has an E.O. which is good for you ;) and with it being a relatively small cam it will make ignorant tq. should work good with the dope too. with the 112 lsa it might not seem like a cam for use with dope but my philosophy on that is i will never sacrifice n/a power for power on the dope as far as street cars go. this cam will idle fairly smooth as well more than likely lopier than stock but probably not at all after a tune and if you get it tuned try and get it done on a mustang dyno its a more accurate reflection of real world driving dynojet dyno's are not appropriate for tuning imho. if a rougher idle is important to you pick whatever you want. i pick parts to make power not sound. all the rough idle sound in the world wont save you from being laughed at when you come up loping hard and get smoked by a stock sounding car with a "baby cam" the zz3/4 cam isnt a dyno queen but it stomps about everything else in average power that it will make in a stock heads car more avg power = faster car. |
Originally posted by WS6T3RROR that depends... if you're staying stock heads and you've got the whole emisions crap to deal with get a zz3 cam 1) has a big split i/e wise 2) has good lift with 1.6 rockers for stock heads 3) is really really good for a stock CR in regards to dynamic compression ratio. it might seem puny to you but if you're staying stock heads i promise it will perform flawlessly. however you do need to have the end of it turned down to work in an lt1. and a longer dowel installed (not sure but more than likely dont know car year) if you dont think this is a good cam choice read this it will explain part of why i chose this cam. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.htm the other thing is the cost scroggins dicky has it for 175 they call it the zz4 now the durations @ .50 are 208/221 and a 112lsa not sure but i think it has an E.O. which is good for you ;) and with it being a relatively small cam it will make ignorant tq. should work good with the dope too. with the 112 lsa it might not seem like a cam for use with dope but my philosophy on that is i will never sacrifice n/a power for power on the dope as far as street cars go. thats just me though |
Originally posted by treyZ28 your situation- 100% calls for a custom cam :cool: thats just me though |
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