GET IN HERE LT1 engine builders
 

Wass up people. Il make it quick. WELL my 125k LT1 motor has a ROD knock. I dont wanna do 383 stroker due to Cali SMog. I would rather have a stock rebuild. OR 355 instead of the 383. My questions. What parts are needed for a stock rebuild and what do I need to do for the 355. I plan on using nitrous and droppin a cam in the car as well thanks
LT1CST@aol.com
the Names CHris

Re: GET IN HERE LT1 engine builders
 

from my limited understanding of emissions- its not how much, but how dirty.

So a 383 with a mild heads and cam will pass
a 355 with more agressive heads and cam wont

if your staying under the 550fwhp mark i reccomend-
either A buying a crate (cmotorsports.com) or building it (duh)

Keith black pisons, eagle rods and a scat cast crank should do it for you.

edit- a full list?
water pump, opti, full gasket set, new springs and lifters, - depends how deep you want to go.
the only thing stock under my hood are heads (ported VERY soon), block (bored and cleared) radiator and valve covers..

OK Cool. MY buddy has a LT1 block that his gonna give me. So thay well alow for downtime while i get it worked on. Also I dont want nothing to major anyway. I plan on using stock heads. BUt nice mild cam as well. And then nitruos. WILL KB pistons holdn itrous pretty good

how much dope?
stock will hold 200 np
KB is better than stock :)

port your heads

i just get quoted from the shop that rebuild my tranny, that he will do an engine rebuild for $3-4000?? i think this is too much no??

Cam has more to do with smog than anything else, and if anything a 383 will clean up a larger cam, not make it worse. Plus you get some 'free' power out of it, so you can stay with a smaller cam if you want.

way to much in my opinion

If you are going to spray, I would stay away from KB pistons..Too brittle for that..

with the engine having as many miles ont is as it does you probably will have to bore it thats almost for certain and as far as a 355 is concerned thats just a 30 overbore 350 if i was you i would probably go the scat crank and 6" rods route. it will add to your machine shop costs and you will get more free power out of it like they already said. if you want to use dope dont use hyperutectics get something forged and made for nitrous. have the rods reconditioned and add arp rod bolts to them. and maybe a stud kit for your main caps... maybe for your heads too (big big shot of dope, have to pull engine to get heads off with this too).

As for emmissions whats been said before is true the 383 will tame the cam and make it cleaner. what you need to look at in cams is the valve overlap and the lobe seperation angle. the tighter the lsa and more overlap the rougher the idle and the more hydrocarbons? it will spew.

Next thing if you have the money over and above the rebuild. spend it on the heads have them ported and have your intake matched. the heads are where the power is. if it was me personally i would do the 355 the way i mentioned above. and have the heads ported or at least cleaned up with the machine shop money saved over a 383. then i would get a mild duration cam with a 112 or 114 lsa depending on relative size of the lobes (maybe more maybe less this is a generalization). and i would get as much lift as possible to the point past where the heads stall on the flow sheet but a very marginal amount, its much better to hit peak flow twice rather than just graze it. the type of ramp rates i'm talking about make comp r lifters mandatory. also while you're at it you might want to bump up the compression and then use a cam with a less agressive intake valve closing point so that the DCR doesnt become excessive. you also need a big big exhaust lobe if you want to maximize power on the dope compared to how an n/a cam would be split. then all you have to do is upgrade your fuel system and probably drive line.

sorry if i got a little long winded on this post and probably got carried away with my suggestions but i just wanted to give you some ideas.

but for bare minimum you'll need pistons to rebuild i recommend you just go straight to forged since you think you'll be spraying in the future, good rings are important too but everyones preferences vary on those somebody will recommend some once they know more about your setup and your plans.

remove and reinstall?

Forged may allow more room for slop, but even Chuck backed up the quality of KB stuff, so dont write them off completely if your looking for a good Hyper piston.

My motor with high comp and no blower:D .

depending on how much dope you want to run you will probably need rods too i think scat or somebody has forged ones for $250 or something like that. go with a 6" rod if you buy some makes more power with same combo. i would say 6.2 but thats too short a piston with the dope.

i would also talk to a tuner (not a retail store) about a cam.
either call comp directly, cmotorsports is in Vegas- relativly close to CA so they should have a handle on this kinda thing.
I'd also suggest a 6'' rod. anything more and your messing unsurfed territory (well less surfed :D)

Go to nu-tek
 

You dude, it isnt about the CID you have its the cam, its the overlap and duration that determine how much you suck in, and how much just blows out the exhust.

Most people do a high lift, LOW duration and overlap custom gind cams.

Nu-tek motorsports is a great company, they are building my motor. We have emissions in CT but they are VERY strict, but strict enough. BUt i will be doign a 383 stroker with a LT4 hotcam.

Im using my already P&P'ed heads still, with the cam on a STOUT bottom end.

Callies Dragon Slayer 4340 Chromoly Steel crank

6" eagle H-beam rods

SRP high silicon pistons

Retianing my heads and cam and valve train peices, for 5K, I get a reletivly bullet proof engine, quality parts, fulll assembly and shipping,

If you want details, feel free to email, i ahve the list im doing with parts and labor all included.

Parts total: 2200

Labor 2600 or so

Shipping, both ways 250