Where to start? First off i've been having a prob with my tach and speedo being real erratic for a min or so then going back to normal. Yesterday my gauges got erratic again went back to normal then stopped working, both tach and speedo when to their off position. The fuel, oil, water, and battery gauges all stayed where they were and didn't move again. Get to where I'm going and see that not only is the fuse for the gauge cluster blown, but it wasn't the right fuse to begin with. Supose to be a 10 but there was a 20 in it. :roll: Put a 25 in it just to see if they'd work again and sure enough they everything comes right back to normal. Why did my gauge cluster blow a fuse?

Second set of probs. Coming home this morning gauges still not working cuz I took the fuse back out. I lose 4th gear, and about 2 miles from home the car dies. Car does nothing put spit and sputter to a hault. Dot worker comes along and jumps my car. It fires right back up. I put the 25 amp fuse in the spot for the gauges and roll out to the house. Notice when I turn the inline pump on it hits the battery gauge hard. When I turn it off the gauge goes back to semi normal. Why did my car die? Could it have anything to do with my gauges not working? Or are these two separate problems?

Thanks in advance
Joe

 

I'm sure somebody will chime in here with more accurate info but I do believe that somehow the battery charging circuit is connected to something to do with the gauges. I think this is done so people can't drive with their speedo/odometer disconnected because their battery will die and their car won't run.

I don't have very good info here but maybe it'll make somebody jump in and give you the full info or correct my errors

 

Thanks brent. Good lookin out. Thats what I was kinda thinking. Cuz that would be way to easy for someone to tinker with the gauges and have false readings for mileage and such.

Joe