ok so my motor and trans are outta my car....i rebuild my lt1 to a 355 with a comp cams 305. i had my engine down to a bare block and had everything hot tanked and jet washed....ok so here is my question..when i put my engine and trans back in what do i have to do before i start it...i know i have to prime it for oil (any how toos?)but what about my radiator and brakes...how do i bleed my radiator without the motor running...and i removed my master cylinder to paint the booster...i also removed the brake part off the lower shock tower where all the lines from the master cylinder connected to... also when i start it do i just bring the r's up to 2-25k and fluxuate them for the "initial" break in?

 

I am going to pull ignition fuse and crank over engine till I get good oil flow. In theory you should be be ok with the moly lube you use on bearings for initial startup, to not even have to prime. A lot of people prefer to see the oil flow before actually starting engine.

Some will say prime with a drill with intake pulled, where the gear drive is on rear of block.

I would worry about bleeding coolant after you make sure oiling system is where you want it, then work on bleeding brake system. I hope this helps.

 

ok cool and what type of oil should i use for my initial breakin? the 30minute one? i already purchased a bottle of comp cams break in oil...but what weight oil should i get? and do i use a el cheapo fram oil filter or do i need a nice one to collect oil shavings?

 

I am going to run the dino oil/non synthetic type for a few thousand. I will probably drain oil after a few runs down through neighborhood and hwy.

Check out this link on break in. It is a good way to look at things in my opinion.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

you should start up with stright trans fluid

 

You can bleed the radiator with the engine running. Don't worry about that, IMO. I used regular oil for mine. Just changed it constantly at first.

 

really? i was thinking blinker fluid would do they trick..no?

 

The old procedure of setting the engine at a high idle for 20-30 minutes was with flat tappet cams. If you are still using the roller cam, start the thing and drive it gently. No need for break-in as such, except to keep away from high load, high rpm for a while - maybe 200 miles. With a good plateau hone finish on the cylinder walls, the rings will seat quickly, and cam needs no break in at all.

 

I don't totally agree with that. Flat tappet cams did have some requirements, but you still want 1500-2000 RPM to get good initial oiling, so you don't want to let it idle low. You should get it on the road as soon a possible and you don't want to be gentle on it. Avoid WOT, but varying moderate accel and decel loading is what you want for the rings. Too gentle and the rings will never seat.