I've had some KR issues since I got my new motor in. I've tried 91 octane, race gas, and everything in between and it has not made a difference. The car runs great and the dyno graph is nice and smooth. Can I just zero out my max KR in LT1 edit and leave it at that? I have forged pistons.

The reason I ask is because I used to have a 5.0 Mustang that knocked like a **** when I beat on it in the heat. I was always more concerned with the power loss than the actual knock itself. This car knocked in the heat when I got it with 90k on it and it still knocks in the heat with the current owner and over 200k on the stock motor. The timing on this car was at a stock setting, never understood why it knocked at all. It sure as hell never hurt that car and that knocking was loud. I'm not saying I would drive around and ignore audible knock, if all that knock never hurt the Mustang, would a little here and there(probably none at all) hurt my motor? My car has been in the shop getting dyno tuned for over a month now and they say they can do no more. A/F ratio is right on, everything is right on, and the timing is next to none at all. He said he got KR at idle with 4* TOTAL timing. I've even purchased a 2nd PCM in case its a internal PCM problem.

The only thing left to do is replace the wire from the PCM to the knock sensor, everything else has been replaced. My initial tune was from PCMFORLESS, then to get dynotuned, now Madz28 is doing a program for the 2nd PCM.

I'm 99.9% sure my knock is 100% false and this car is not a daily driver.

whatta y'all think?

 

LT4 KM? It's cheap...

 

do you have a lt4 knock module, have you replaced the knock sensor itself?

 

Both LT4KM and GM knock sensor are brand new.

 

fireman..
I'm in the same exact situation in my 398 stroker. I was about to start changing sensors, but maybe I'll wait a bit and see what people say. Have you changed the sensor on the block?

-darko

 

i started picking up a lot of knock when i installed a new ignition and tried everything to stop it. we came to the conlusion that either the box was too close to the PCM (in the glovebox) or that the noise coming from the wires i used to go from the box to the coil were too close to the Knock sensor wire and the wires were doing a (cross fire effect). might want to look at the ignition box location and wire quality.

 

I have replaced the sensor in the block with a new GM piece.

I do not have an ignition box. I am going to replace the wire from the PCM to the KS with a good shielded wire. The factory wire used to have switch installed on it and is back together with a butt connector. I believe that may be causing some resistance issues.

Its strange, when I first hooked up the Scanmaster after having about 100 miles on the new motor, I got a max of 1* KR when driving WOT and none any other time, on 91 octane gas. 2 days later, is when I started seeing all the KR.
I am probably going to zero the max kr under like 5000rpm using LT1 edit.
There is a heads/cc306 file on Bfranker's .LT1 database that has KR maxed at zero below 5k. So its been done.

 

tttttt