anaik

The steam would never happen. I run Evans coolant.
Why do you deny me my eccentricities.

edit: spelling correction

quickSS

I submit to your ecentelectricities.

I know when to give up.

And of course you drew the trump card, Evans NPG. I only have 2 hot button pet peves and both have been mentioned in this thread, (the Meuller water pump temp sender mod and Evans NPG).

karl

anaik

What do you have against Evans?

quickSS

Sorry Anaik, I read you wrong and thought that you were being sarcastic and joking along with me about the temp sensor in the water pump. But now I see you were not joking. My appologies.


Before going into the Evans NPG subject I'll state my case against the water pump temp sensor mod.

Yes, the PCM uses the water pump sensor for "ECT" and the dash gauge is totally independent and it's sensor is in the cylinder head. To each his own but if you are a gauge watcher and want to have the 1st indication of a system failure then for the coolant system the cylinder head is the absolute best place to put your sensor. The cylinder head is the heat source.
The cylinder head can be boiling while the water pump is not...that's the short version.

Now on to Evans.

Evans NPG is non-aqueous propylene glycol and it cannot transfer heat as well as Ethylene glycol, (normal Dexcool or Green stuff). So in a street car Evans will make the engine run a bit warmer which is ok because the factory wants it warm. The Evans theory is that by making the engine run warmer you can tune it more aggressively for more power, (more heat stays in the combustion chamber and less in the coolant). Do we do that with our street cars? I bet you'll make just as much power with engine coolant around 170F and aggressive tune than with coolant around 230F and an aggressive tune.

100% water transfers heat away from the cylinder head probably 5 times better than any mix of antifreeze, (EVANS or Traditional). Drag cars and stock car race cars use 100% water with good high flow water pumps and of course antifreeze is not allowed due to flamability and slippery.

I started a thread a few years ago in Advanced tech about this NPG vs 100% water and maybe it's still there. I guess what came out of it is that for drag racing you cannot beat 100% water and of course you cannot use any coolant of any kind when drag racing, (if you are a regular pro). Yes for "street" car events then the track will put up with people spewing antifreeze onto the track. One well respected guy on the thread tests engines for a living and concluded that NPG gave good "better" HP but that was for a specific application (like f-1 engine or something like that). And that was never compared to 100% water.
I do think that the conclusion was that for street cars then get the $6 jug of normal antifreeze and go 50-50% with DI water. And for better cooling use more water than anti freeze. And for best cooling use 100% water, (but not in the cold climates).

Now this might have some use to the original topic, "ECT" ? I hope.

Karl Ellwein

anaik

Karl, no apologies necessary, I enjoyed the banter.
I have read the pro's and con's of Evans coolant in Advanced Tech and in my case, not being a diehard performance enthusiast, it serves me well. Besides at that price, no way I'm going to dump it. With my 160 stat and fans coming on at 182 and 187, I never get above 195* on 90* days. It's nice when I take the car out in the winter because it runs about 10* warmer then conventional coolant. No need to switch to the 180 stat. I have tried it with the 180 stat in the summer and it never went above 205*. I have had it in the car about 7 yrs. and it's as clear as when I put it in. Seems like it keeps the coolant passages clean, having no water.

Later

MentalCaseOne

[QUOTE=96Zm6]How can a bad engine coolant temp. sensor cause hard starting. I was told that might be the problem, as I'm having hard starting issues.[/QUOTE

Easy... The computer uses the reading to deliver the right amount of fuel to the engine.

If the computer senses the car is Hot it will send a lot less fuel.... pair that up with a cold engine and you see what I am talking about.


How do I know? cause I once messed up with the sensor readings.... it was ok while the engine was warm but as soon as it cooled down.. it was a biatch to get her to start.....


buy a new sensor and change it they are cheap... the worst that can happen is that you ended up with a brand new sensor..

Marvin

ChevyBoiZL1

If it takes forever to start but then sometimes it starts right up and likes to die at red lights or whenever you come to a stop or slow down. Pull the vacuum line off youre Fuel pressure regulator and if theres fuel in it thats youre problem. Youre car will instantly start and wont die at the lights.

Injuneer

Hopefully the OP figured out what his problem was when he posted this more than 10 years ago.