-Day 2- Hooker LT Install Questions ??
 

After getting all the stock exhaust and emissions out today I ran into a few walls, and I figured you guys could help me out a bit.

Hooker LT's Felpro 1406's and 3in Collector gasket
Mufflex Y Blisten Header Bolts 02 Extensions
94 Z/28 Stock I-pipe to GMMG No emissions

1. What to do about the stud that held the one alternator braket (front most passenger side)

2. What size bolts for the collector flanges?

3. Would ID/OD band clamps work better than the OD/OD ones I have? (All are slip-in pipe parts) 3 on the mufflex and one 4in and 3 inch to stock I-pipe

4. Those with GMMG, cat or no cat?

5. Heat shelding, where do I need it and on what wires/tubes (AC box on passenger side?)

6. Anyone have intrsuctions for a 94-95 style car rather than the zmydust and theheadfl 96-97 pages?

7. Will Both go in from bottom?

8. EGR plates need some black RTV right? and some on the Felpro 1406's? And slip fit?

9. Any tips for Blisten Header Bolts?

10. Steering linkage...do I really need this out with the slip fit?

Anything else I skipped?

Thanks for the help guys.

-Dustin-

At this point of the install (you've already removed all the old exhaust) the instructions on my zmydust.com site should be the same for a 94/95.

The Breslins are easy to use, back the set pins out a little bit, get the bolt tight (make sure to use some antiseize), then snug the set pins up. I've had mine on the car for 7 months now and not had a single one back out yet.

Both heads should go in from the bottom, although you're likely to have problems with one side OR the other, most people do. It's about 1/2 and 1/2 on which side is the hard one.

I would recommend you inspect your motor mounts CLOSELY, if you suspect them at all, replace them before inserting the headers. Besides, the driver's side mount can't be replaced with the header in the car I don't think.

Good luck!

The stud you speak of behind the alternator take that out and to hell with that rear bracket. Left mine out and no problems. That little bracket doesn't seem to help or hurt anyting. Just install your regular header bolts where the stud was.

Both headers in from the bottom.

I used blue RTV for the egr plates.

Adam

I just installed my Jet-Hots over the weekend. For me, my PS header was next to impossible to get in--and this was after installing new polly motor mounts! Some words of advice: 1. It's a 2 man job--I struggled with the PS header for 8 hours by myself and couldn't get it in. The next day I got a friend to help push from the bottom while I pulled from the top. 2. Get the car up high enough (roughly 2.5') so you can stand the header on end to angle it up between the tranny and K-member. 3. We had to raise the motor by taking out the PS throughbolt and putting a 2x6 under the oil pan and jacking. Originally I tried jacking closer to the tranny, but that moved the engine more up than sideways. Just make sure you get a wide/thick piece of wood and take it slow. This allowed us to clear the last lower rear head bolt. We then pushed/pulled the header inbetween the K-member and into position. 4. Use some fine steel wool and Mothers metal polish to get out any scratches.

Also, for the DS header, put the slip fit in the freezer a 1/2 hour --helps it slide right in......

Good luck!

Thanks guys for the input, any other comments or answers?

How about that steering linkage?

How should the motor mounts look? The car only has 42k on the clock...

Oil filter looks like it definately has got to go...

I got Ultra Black RTV for the EGR.

-Dustin-

Take off oil filter and drain oil. Gonna need the filter out. Might as well change it and your oil while your down there.

While your down there, drop the starter. It's two bolts and is an easy drop (DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY)

Header gaskets go on DRY

Egr plates, that ultra black will work fine. Be liberal with what you use and snug em tight.

42k - dont worry about the mounts

Ditch the Alt. bracket.

Get the pipe on there, then get the slip-ins welded.

Header bolts are self explanatory. Just dont lock them in place until you've retorqued them once.

Steering linkage - Take it out. I had to anyway, even with the slip-fit. Saves headache, and is easy to remove.

Both headers from bottom

3/8-16 bolts for the collectors, about an inch long will work fine. Get high grade bolts so you can really clamp em on ther e(grade 8)

Oh, and no cat :cool:

Good luck

Do yourself a favor and remove the steering linkage...no if's and's or but's about it! I found that it also helps to remove the sparkplug wire brackets that bolts to each side of the engine block. ;)

Thanks a ton Spinner and guys, that gets alot of uncertainty out of tomorrow. Some of those are already done but others are a huge help.

I am going to get it welded, but it maybe clamped for a couple days.

Give me a ring if you ever need anything!

-Dustin-

If you haven't done the install yet, I have a few things to add.

Don't use RTV with the exhaust gaskets. They are supposed to be used dry. I am using the same gaskets and headers as you with no RTV and no problems whatsoever.

Also, I did my header install by myself. It can be a one man job - you just need a jackstand or something to slip underneath the collector while you go up top and run the bolts in.

As far as the slip-fit goes, you can take the #1 primary to an exhaust shop and have them expand the end VERY slightly. This helps and incredible amount, although you have to "persuade" the primary into the slip-fit with a dead-blow hammer.

Be patient. If you are having trouble getting the header in, stop and try a different angle. If you have the car high enough and the right angles, the headers will slip right in. Mine did. I fought with the passenger side for awhile before I jacked the motor up and then it slid in like magic.

Oh, and good luck. I thought it was actually pretty easy, but I took my time while the car was in storage for the winter. :D