I'm so angry, don't ask me how it happened just know that it happened. I need to helicoil the hole... is it going to have an effect on anything else if I do a helicoil. I swear GM ceases to amaze me, if I ever see the guy that decided to put a fine thread grade 8 bolt to hold the hub to our stock crank I am going to slap him once for every thread on the bolt.

I have the calculation for the tap drill size but I have never helicoiled before. I have tapped and died (lol) but never helicoiled. Anybody give me instructions or tips? Is it going affect balance (it won't because I already added my blower pulley on top of the crank pulley so I'm assuming as long as it's symmetrical and in the middle of the crank it will stay neutrally balanced). Anyway, please gave insight or guidance. I need to get this thing done ASAP. Is there anywhere I can get a helicoil kit or something? Or do I need to buy everything separately.

Thanks.

 

I had to do mine too.... stripped it right out...

just drill, tap, and install the heli-coil, and then break out the install tab.

I got mine in a kit, they normally come with like 5 inserts, and the tools required to put them in...

 

Would you be able to recall the size of the helicoil so I can go pick it up tomorrow???? Would I get it at any hardware store or does it have to be a specialty store?

 

mine was a speciality store..

I believe 7/16-20, although I'm not 100% sure...

 

Yes it is 7/16 x 20 but I wanted to know the size of the helicoil not the bolt. Or will the kit say 7/16 x 20 helicoil set??? Will it tell me the tap drill size??

 

Just try and run a tap though it first and see what happens. The crank is pretty soft and should tap easily. Just dont use that bolt to pull the hub on. I broke mine off in the crank doing that, and its never comming out

Used lots of red locktite and the hub is staying on, but even i wouldnt try that with a blower.

I would try to avoid drilling your crank at all costs. You could easily split it, not drill straight etc.

 

You know I wanted to do that but the threads are ****ED UP. Like seriously, they are non existent for the first inch or so. It's needs to be helicoiled, besides, a helicoil is stronger. I am confident that I can do this helicoil correctly as I have done things like it before and I have plenty of room to work. I have penetrating oil and everything. I can't believe they used a grade freaking 8 bolt fine thread on our stock soft *** crank... idiots. Thanks for the warning though, if I mess up I was warned haha.


One question, how the **** do you get the hub to go on straight???? I mean you can hammer it but it might not go on straight. Who has done it without using a bolt to pull it on??

 

The sell/rent (autozone (free)) hub installers. There is a longer center bolt that threads all the way in, then 3 other bolts on the installer. Those bolts go to the three pulley holes on the hub and you tighten them down, which pulls the hub on squarely.

Good luck

 

I never could find one that was appropriate for our cars..... Apparently regular SBC's have an entirely different setup, and nothing else seems to work like an LT1.. Hrmph...

The method I used was basically half-***, but I had already bought some other 7/16-20 bolts in various lenghts. Using them along with the stock washer (whatever you call that super-thick washer thing), I slowly got it on there. And I do mean slow... I also messed up a couple of my end threads, but I managed to save them without re-tapping it.

I can't understand why this part of the install has to be so hard. GM should make a tool specifically for the LT1. I can't imagine how they do this in the dealerships??

-Michael

 

Well obviously i didnt have the tool from autozone since i broke my bolt, lol BUT my buddy has one he uses to install them. Ill find out manufacturer next time im out at his house. I just assumed it was something generic.

 

Dammit... how the hell do I get the stupid hub on. I swear I will shoot the guy who designed this BS. I know I cant hammer it on, there has to be somebody that has a 100% way of doing it. I plan to have that biotch on tomorrow with the helicoil in place.

 

Go buy yourself some 7/16 x 20 threaded rod. Get a few washers and some nuts. Put the threaded rod into the crank and then the hub on. Tighten down the nut on the threaded rod and the hub goes on nice and straight. Remove the nut, then remove the threaded rod and put your bolt back on.

--Sean

 

Kent Moore actually makes a tool specifically for the LT1 for the hub. It is used to take the hub off and to install it. Now this kit is not cheap but I decided to buy it since I have done the hub a couple of times and thought it would be easier to just use the right tools. They also sell a kit for the seals that go on the front timing cover.

Glenn

 

I believe I said it in my other post...

It's a kit.. the kit you buy will include the following:

Drill bit
Tap
Install tools
Heli-coils
Instructions

everything you need to fix it...

 

why not just heat the hub up then slip it on?