crank crank crank
 

So far I have replaced fuel filter, and FPR and my car still takes 5- 10 seconds to start. Whats next to replace or check??? How about the TPS.

check the fuel pressure after you shut the car off. It should hold at least 42 for a good long while. If it falls off it could be 3 things. The fuel pressure regulator could have a hole in it in which case the vacuum line would be wet when you pull it off. If not the problem could be the check valve in the fuel pump is sticky and allowing the fuel to run back into the tank. The last cause could be a fuel injector leaking and causing the fuel pressure to go down and also dripping a puddle into the intake and it takes a while to burn off.

Clean the injectors professionally through the fuel rail and see if that helps otherwise :eek: the probability is not so good.

The other possibility is ignition but not as likely.

i changed the FPR already. so how do u fix the check valve in the fuel pump??? do i need a new pump?? wheres the best place to get one??

thanks guys

I believe 96-97 had crank sensors. On many other vehicles hard starting is caused by this.

Have you checked the fuel pressure when the engine is shut down yet?

no yet tommarow
;)

ok here u go

idle = 34

key on = 40 for 5-10 seconds and then goes to 0:eek:

key off to 0 in about 5-10 seconds:eek:

If it is the check ball in the pump, the pump will have to be replaced. Here is some info on testing the system:

When you have a gauge connected and the pressure looks initially good and then bleeds off quickly, you can do a couple of tests to help you figure out where the pressure loss is.

What the factory manual says to temporarily install, is a set of "fuel line shut off adapters" (probably something the normal guy is not going to have available). You remove the fuel lines from the rail and connect these valves in between. This lets you shut off either side of the lines for testing.

You can do the same thing by pinching the flexible line to shut it off, but risk breaking it. You could probably do it relatively safely (your risk) by using a needle nose vise grips and putting some scrap hose as cushions on the jaws. Then use that to clamp off the line just enough to seal it.

You can use the fuel pump prime connector for pressurizing the system (jumper 12v to it to run the pump).

Watch your gauge as you jumper the prime connector. When you have good pressure remove the jumper and clamp off the fuel supply line (3/8 pipe). If pressure holds, you have a leak on the feed line somewhere before it gets to the clamp or at the check ball in the pump.
If it still goes down, release your clamp. Pressurize the system again, then remove the jumper and this time clamp the return line (5/16 line). If pressure holds, then the regulator is faulty. If pressure does not hold, you need to locate leaky injector(s).

If you can't tell a leaky injector from reading the plugs, you can look and see if injectors are leaking by removing the fuel rail screws and pull the rail and all the injectors up a little. Leave them over the injector ports. Pressurized the system and look under the injectors to see if any are dripping.