LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Clutch Questions

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Old May 29, 2003 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
FormulaW66's Avatar
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Posts: 47
From: Santa Cruz, CA USA
Clutch Questions

my clutch is going to go out soon (engaging really high and starting to get hard to put into gear) and i was looking at getting a new one. Not sure if it matters but i have a moser 12 bolt, 3.73s, LCA, PHR, Adjustable Torque Arm, all BMR stuff with Polly bushings. Should i get one from SLP or just get a stock one from auto zone or somthing. I know nothing about clutches, transmissions, or anything about what i need to get. I was going to get all the parts and then have a shop do it.

could some one give me a compleat list of parts i need to get??? also what is a good price to have a shop do it if i supply all the parts. I dont want to get ripped since i dont know anything about this.

Thanks for any replys and Help!!!!
Old May 29, 2003 | 08:39 PM
  #2  
Dmx4ever3's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 236
From: NE philadelphia pa, FOX CHASE
I HAVE A USED STOCK CLUTCH WITH ABOUT 13000 MILES ON IT WAS WORKING GREAT BEFORE I PULLED IT, TO PUT IN A DUAL FRICTION CENTERFORCE CLUTCH :ILL SELL IT FOR $100
Old May 30, 2003 | 04:00 AM
  #3  
unTAmedLS1's Avatar
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From: Glenview,Illinois,USA
Yo Ill buy it for 85 shipped. I need one asap to get me buy for a month or two
Old May 30, 2003 | 06:08 AM
  #4  
mc63's Avatar
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From: Atlanta, Georgia
The SLP clutch is great. Better than stock and price is better than most.
Replace these parts;
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Clutch Disk
Pilot Bearing/Bushing

Good Luck,
Michael
Old May 30, 2003 | 06:36 AM
  #5  
sgias95Z's Avatar
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From: Dix Hills, N.Y.
I have the SLP clutch also. Its very smooth and clamps alot better than the stock one. I got mine installed for $365.00 by a really good place. I heard that was a good deal. I also had a new Pro-5.0 shifter installed at the same time and that was included in the price. Its a good time to replace your shifter if you haven't already. Its alot more fun to drive the car now. The clutch (new flywheel (steel billet lightweight), pressure plate and disc) costs $700.00. I was also advised to change my master/slave cylinder ($124.00). And Pilot bearing ($5.00). Good luck !
Old May 31, 2003 | 04:14 PM
  #6  
FormulaW66's Avatar
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From: Santa Cruz, CA USA
Originally posted by mc63
The SLP clutch is great. Better than stock and price is better than most.
Replace these parts;
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Clutch Disk
Pilot Bearing/Bushing

Good Luck,
Michael
Thanks for the Info everyone!!!

Do all these parts listed by "mc63" come with the slp clutch??? or do i need to get some of them at an auto store?

"sgias95Z" - so you have this same set up but added the Flywheel and master/slave cylinder??? i already have a Hurst shifter.
Old May 31, 2003 | 06:25 PM
  #7  
sgias95Z's Avatar
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From: Dix Hills, N.Y.
The SLP Parts I ordered were

1. Flywheel, Steel Billet - $355.00
2. Pressure Plate/Throwout bearing - $259.95
3. Clutch Disc - $89.95

Shipping/Handling was $27.95

I ordered the Master/slave cylinder from GMPartsDirect - $124.00 + 24.80 for shipping
The GM Part # is 12557509.

The bearing I got from my local chevy dealer
GM Part # 14061685 - $13.36

The labor (including my shifter of course was $365.00

So the whole shabang cost me: $1260.00

My shifter and **** was another $260.00 in parts. Wow, how things add up

Old Jun 2, 2003 | 06:17 AM
  #8  
IDOXLR8's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,784
From: Rochester Hills, MI
I would highly recommend going with a McLeod Street Twin. You don't have to worry about breaking rearends since you already have a 12 bolt.
Old Jun 2, 2003 | 08:08 AM
  #9  
rasilverbird's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 59
From: Mt Airy, MD
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
I would highly recommend going with a McLeod Street Twin. You don't have to worry about breaking rearends since you already have a 12 bolt.
Ditto that.
Old Jun 2, 2003 | 09:19 AM
  #10  
Fastbird93's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,827
From: Waynesboro, PA
Here's a third for the Street Twin.

Just get yourself some slicks because there's no chance of traction off the line with Street tires/DR's.
Old Jun 2, 2003 | 11:10 AM
  #11  
Grover's Avatar
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Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,173
From: Portage, MI USA
Here's a 4th vote for the Street twin, but get rid of that aluminum driveshaft if you do. I shattered mine the first time at the track after the street twin installation.
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