I had a similar problem with my stock 95 Trans Am after letting it sit for a few weeks.

I fixed mine in a rather "odd" way. Since it was working when you last drove it and it did sit, there is a good chance it is just "stuck". I fixed mine by giving myself some room in front of me then turning the key over and allowing the car to lurch forward. On the 2nd or 3rd time of doing this the clutch "unstuck" and all was well

 

Wow, I did not realize this was such common thing on these cars. I don't think I have read any posts about it before this one.

 

I had experienced this "stuck clutch" thing (if that is what it is) a while back when I let the car sit for a few weeks. I thought I was loosing it and could understand why I couldn't get the darn trans in any gear. I had to turn the engine off and restart the car in gear. After that it has been o.k. What causes this problem?

 

I would guess it is a combination of disc composition (probably higher metallic content), moisture and high clamping forces necessary for high torque transfer without slippage. Add to that a period of time of non-use.

 

I believe shoebox is correct with the moisture thing. I drove mine during a very heavy rain then parked it for a few weeks. Went to drive it again after it sat for that time period and it lurched forward a little so I started it out of gear but then couldn't put it in gear with the engine running. I fiddled with it for a while with no success. I then gave myself some "running room" and cranked it enough that it finally broke loose. I had no problems at all with it after that.

 

Both myself and SID live in Vancouver where it rains just about endlessly, but I believe his car gets stored indoors while mine sits on the street...

There have been times (sevearl months ago) when I will NOT have the problem all day, but lately, I can not get the car to go into gear at a stop, if I keep the clutch in and move the shifter to neutral... Its just about ALWAYS hard to get back into gear... I've been dealing with this by just not taking it out of gear unless I have to which is mainly to use reverse, and then its quite frustrating as its very difficult to get into that gear.

I do however let my car sit for just about the whole week, and I only drive it on the weekends or evenings when its needed (I work downtown and refuse to pay 100's of dollars a month to park so the bus it is!) So it does sit ALOT, and again, vancouver = rain so theres TONS of moisture... And I have a Center Force dual Fricton clutch so no doubt theres stronger clamping power and the material is different then stock...

And come to think about it, I didn't really notice the problem back in Calgary (very little rain compared to here) and I drove more then as well... I'll have to pay more attention to when I DON"T have the problem

But I'll also look into bleeding the system (but I also thought I read that its a closed system and can't be bleed, but perhaps i'm mistaken and thinking of something else.) Otherwise, I'll look into the Mcloud cylinder or other hydrolic issues...

Either way, thx for the replies guys and I'll be sure to report any findings!

Jeff

 

Jeff, I agree with the assessments above about this clutch phenomenon.

I helped a bud bench bleed an LS1 clutch a year ago. We had to rig up a system with a Mighty-Vac pump, but it worked. If my clutch hydraulics present problems, I think I'll get that McLeod master cylinder

 

wow had no idea this problem was so common

i'll try the hyd system first (check fluid and bleed it) .. then if worst comes to worst i'll get a day permit for the car (with full coverage) and roll it out of the garage and start it in gear ... see what happenes

i'll post the results

thanx


ps. to bleed ur clutch hyd system, unbolt the slave cyl, push it in with a screw driver or soemthign with the master cyl cap off .. refill the fluid, and repeat. i beleave that will bleed any air out of the master cyl reservoir ... someone correct me if im wrong

 

thats is the correct way to bleed the LT1 clutch hydraulics.
however, you dont need a screw driver, you can just use the palm of your hand on the slave cylinder pushrod.

for those of you thinking that purchasing the mcleod master will make it easier to bleed, dont but it just for that reason, cause it wont.

the mcleod master has no bleeding provisions, you bleed it the same way you would bleed the factory system.

 

oh right fergot about that little pushrod

yeah .. there is that pushrod u use ..

thanx

 

I was thinking/read the Mcloud was better due to being able to push? more fluid, for higher pressure, allowing a stuck p.p/flywheel to disengage?

Not so much for ease of bleeding... But I'll try bleeding my system as well, and seeing what that does.

But if its due to sitting for extended periods of time and mositure, i'm kinda outta luck

Oh well, i'll find out soon!

Thx guys!

Jeff

 

the mcleod master is supposed to push more fluid.
I did not do the drill out mod when I installed mine.

 

As an update to my issues...

I have recently moved to where i now have Underground parking vs. the on-street parking I had prior...

I've only driven the car 3 times in the past 3 weeks, and the first 2 times, were for extended periods (an hour trip or more) and I had 0, NONE, NOT ONE, NOTHING, NADDA problems I was VERY happy with the car! Also note that it was clear, sunny, warm day

It did feel like the clutch slipped once tho, @ high rpm, I ripped out around a car to pass, and around 5 grand it slipped, or there was a miss/stumble but that was the only thing of note...

Then, last night, to go get some grocery's, it was raining, and within 10 minutes of pulling into the store's parking lot, I had trouble getting into reverse...

It really seems like its the rain/water/moisture that is causing the problem for me...

Jeff