Cheap good optispark?
 

I may be in need of a good cheap optispark, does anyone know where to get a good one that is reliable?

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Be interesting to see what replies this gets.... at this point seems like it's difficult to find an “expensive” reliable Opti.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Well, I'm not sure about the "good" part yet, but I just put this new Cardone Opti in my 93'. Fired right up the few times I have started it, havent driven the car due to some other issues. I'll have to report back later on the longevity portion. I read too many bad reviews for the MSD unit and didnt really research much on the Accel version, but I doubt its really any better. The best bet is a reman GM unit, but they are pricey and I question that as well.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cam...1808c046be.jpg

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

For 100 dollars the cardone unit is on the way, i ordered it because it was the only 1 that i could afford, will be installing this weekend. Ill let you all know the results. Wish me luck thanks.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I just had a new Opti installed on my ‘94 RoadMaster. It’s a new “old stock” GM not a rebuilt. It was on a back shelf at a smaller dealer. Not exactly cheap but they were glad to get rid of it at a wholesale price. It seems to be working correctly. I also had new plugs and wires installed. 115 k on the car.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Thx for sharing. I have a new Cardone sitting on the shelf to go in once I'm ready. I want to seal mine up first. But its nice to read of others using this opti. Please give us updates if you can.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Will be installing the opti tomorrow i will have updates on how shes runs through 6300 or more rpm soon.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Thx, sharing helps us all.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Update on this thread, i just got done taking out the MSD unit that ive had installed for 2 or more years now, which by the way ran great when it ran. Installed part number 84-1832 and a BRAND NEW coil. Stated cranking the engine over and nothing, then tried again and it fires up. I instantly get a code 15-16 which i understand why cause i did not install the water pump and i did not install the crank pully( reason being i wanted to make sure this distributor worked properly before i got all that **** back on) and so now im sitting here with a code 16 low pulse, engine was running weird, not to bad on shaking but obveiously not right. This being said i am not sure what the hell to do, just put it all back together and hope the code goes away? Lol i am at my limit or getting there with this thing cause i love this car and i need it to run right, i have checked and fixed all wiring, the pcm, the wires to it, brand new coil, icm was tested at oriellies and it is good. Everything pointed to the opti and the one i took off and apart had corrosion and all kinds of problems. So im at a loss and i need everyones help and advice on what to do? Not sure if these distributors are ****, but honestly when i took it out of the box it felt very high quality and nice. Very well put together unit, just not sure why its throwing a code 16. Also it was the spline drive for a 1994 and i put it in right, there is only one way to put these in. Please help.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Assuming no issue with the PCM, sounds like you have trouble with the opti wiring harness, the new opti, or maybe even both. I'd be probing the opti signals with a scope, but most people don't have one. Check and double check your plug wires to make sure they are connected to the opti right. They would not be the cause of the code 16, but still doesn't hurt to make sure they are right.

Start at the 13 min mark. Verify if the proper voltage signals and continuity checks are okay at the end of the opti wiring harness. What was wrong with the MSD opti and how did you diagnose it?

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

The msd was shutting off and off all over the place, and had no code. But i tested the coil, the icm, the computer, and checked all wiring, everything came back good, even repaired wiring that was damaged on other sensors to eliminate fake problems. When i tested the MSD for 1-4 volts AC it came back 0.7 constant. So i figured it was the opti, soon as i replaced it it was back in order and started up. Problem is this damn code, although i have heard and seen a low voltage (keep in mind i have nothing hooked up alternator ext and ive been cranking alot before the swap) cause a code 16, also i did forget to plug in the coolant temp sensor, both of those factors im guessing could be why it threw that code....but honestly it does not run like there is a miss just runs ....off......not like its a cylinder off though, and the code came up instantly ....the wires are new, i tested the connector once, but ill do it again in the morning.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

If it's showing DTC 16, and the engine is running, the code is stored, not active. You may have some sort of intermittent problem that is causing a delay in the low resolution signal reaching the PCM.

And yes, you got DTC 15 because the CLT sensor was not plugged in.

Are you absolutely sure you got the odd tooth on the Opti splined drive shaft indexed correctly to the splines in the cam sprocket? Wouldn’t set DTC 16, but would throw the ignition timing way off.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Yeah this is my 4th opti ive put in (the last 3 on a diff 93 were ac delco or whatever stock is) Yeah it only goes it one way on the indexing, it slipped right in when i found out where it was located and alighned perfectly with the bolts. I had no codes at all before i installed this thing, the msd was all corroded really bad cause the dude that had it installed before me had the vent hole without a hose on it and the bottom had a hole to. Then when i pulled the MSD the shaft just fell right out, which tells me the bearing was shot. I have had a dead batter before and it did set a code 16. Do you think since i started it without the accessories on, this could be partial cause?

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I researched the OPTI even before mine was replaced. I’ve had no end of problems with MSD stuff for years on my other cars. Therefore I specified absolutely no MSD parts of any kind. In fact due to other parts issues, I specified strictly GM OEM stuff. I know you pay a premium price for them and there are problems with some of them too. However, I have to look at the fact that millions of these motors were made and had relatively long warranties. Aftermarket stuff is filled with problems.
so I managed to get a brand new OPTI that was on the shelf in a smaller dealer. Also plug wires, spark plugs and fuel pump.
The hardest part of the OBD 1 systems is just scanning the system. The free software offered above works fine. If you don’t have it you will be lost. Even the high dollar tool company scanners can have trouble reading the scans.

As others have noted, throwing parts at these things just doesn’t get it. In my case there are no codes at all. My Buick only has 115 k on it so is in pretty good shape.

As for dead battery, I left the interior lights on and it would not turn over. We jumped it with another battery and it started right up. Again no codes. I’ve had accessories on and off and it doesn’t seem to make any difference. I have the original owner manual and nothing is said about this.

One thing that probably is not a good idea is to jump start with a battery charger. I had a problem with this in another car and it wiped out the ignition system. No explanation was given by tech support.

I dont have facilities to work on my cars anymore so im at the shop mercy. I’m a pest however, and ask endless questions and won’t tollerate throwing parts and guessing games. 5 supposedly good shops told me I needed 2-3 k in transmission work and it turned out to be plug wires.

post your findings....there are lots of us looking for help.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I checked the voltage at the connector (which is new) and it reads 5 volts at both terminals, and the ground is good, the power wire read 10.5 volts because the batter is at the from excess cranking. I have been on the phone with cardone, summit. And they are all saying that it should not be throwing a code 16 at all. So im guessing this one is just a hunk of ****. But any other thoughts would be nice. Thanks.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Any new opti is a crapshoot on if it'll perform or not. You are far from the first person to get a dead one straight out of the box

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Easy man. You have at least a couple of items to correct before passing judgement. First is low battery voltage. The indicator I had recently was a dying battery that was making the start slow and troubled. These systems are difficult to even start on low voltage. I just resolved what Sam's club left me with as they're Eveready batteries need/use longer terminal bolts. Cheesy tech didn't tell me the bolts were just stuffed in the holes making for very loose contact. $10 later I got good long bolts and topped off the battery charge - now starts like a new car. My AC Delco opti is dying though and I recently timed it taking 25 minutes to throw the high resolution fault.

So get your battery back up to full charge.

Get your coolant sensor working.

Now our cars have what is "adaptive learning" . They will run ruff even on a stock motor w/stock tune for several start and stop runs if the battery has been disconnected. Add modifications to your motor and tune you should expect a learning period every time you disconnect the battery. I know you don't want to waste time with something you think is futile but if you have it installed correctly it shouldn't be be failing on first start and deserves a chance.


Thanks for posting and please let us know what comes of this.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

:think::think::think: If there is nothing wrong with the engine electrically and mechanically, the engine will run just fine with unlearned fuel trims. You'd need a scan tool to know if the trims had been reset.

I think the OP has something going on that he has not put his finger on yet.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I'm not here to argue how fuel trims get reset. You need to direct your advice to the OP as I have no knowledge of his modifications or tune he is using. If you actually have some advice for the OP then you can quote him and post your comments. Or start your own thread on your own topic.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

When you stop giving out misinformation, I'll be glad not to ever have to quote you again. Until that time, you need to lose the chip on your shoulder when someone corrects that misinformation. It's nothing personal, but you seem to take it that way. The key here is the "stock motor w/stock tune" in your statement. When stock, they simply do not run rough or bad after unplugging the battery if nothing is wrong with it electrically or mechanically. Your info is just straight up wrong.

With certain mods and an un/mistuned PCM, old sensors, rough mechanical condition, etc, I'll 100% agree with you that they might act funny until closed loop and a little running time after pulling battery power.....but completely stock in maintained condition? No sir.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Ok update, good news and some weird news? I called customer service and he said to follow specific specs and test to determine weather or not the opti was good or bad i said great. So i installed everything properly and the car would not start duh to batter just not having enough juice. So i grabbed the charger, and it started after a few mins of high amps going into it. Then it ran, idled ok or seemed to.....i checked the wires and i may have 1 off, im not 100%. But the good news is the thing is not sending a code after i deleted the codes.....i believe 16 was being sent because of bad voltage all around, it had nothing to do with the dist. This happend to me once when my battery died before on my opti that was MSD. Which i wished i had money for another one they were great. So long story short, car runs but like ****, it will start though, and it feels like its a cylinder off....so im not sure if i need new plug wires or what but it does run....just runs like its on 7 cylinders. I could have swore i put all the wires on back right but honestly they may have gotten half way damaged when i pulled them off? I have no idea, so im going to get new wires, new plugs, replace all that and get back to yall on here. Hopefully it runs great and does not give me any problems. Will update soon, if anyone has any other ideas of what the new Miss could be let me know. Thanks

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

For the posts up above, the mods are as listed in my sig.

Only thing i forgot to mention that was new is the hypertech tune is gone and a PCM for less tune is in there now.
MSD wires (kinda old now) and a hypertech 53 volt coil (brand new) other then that and a full exauste its stock heads, cam, intake, tb, ext.....im going for a full bolt on car eventually, for now i just need her to get me to work. Honestly on a side note the cardone distributor looked amazing in quality and build, im just thinking maybe when i took off the wires i may have moved one or something in the jacket wrong and its not arching? I have no idea but im without codes now, she starts, so thats way better then the a no start situation. But it is running a bit rough, like its missing on a cylinder, so ill keep up the checks on wires, and hope that i find out which one it is. If i crossed one with the other, that would be 2 misfires.....which i don't see how the motor could even run with 2 misfires but who knows. Least it starts and all the codes are off! But i need to get it 100% for sure. Im working my butt off cause work starts next week. Ill keep you all updated pics soon. Thanks all!

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Keep after it - sounds like you are getting close!.

My 94 was running rough when I first purchased it - after trying plugs and leads i ended up replacing the Opti and it solved the problem. I went with one of the rebuilt eBay ones that use a new sensor combined with a MSD cap and rotor (with the benefit of being vented). I've also heard / read good things about the rebuilt units from Petris Enterprises.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Wow! Is that more than coincidence or what? When I first started my car with a new PCM4less tune it quit in the driveway and was scary driving for nearly the first 15min. Took a while but I was able to drive it daily once all the self corrections were made. So I tried to share that with you even though someone with a grudge can't realize the truth. He can't seem to play without degrading others.

I think you need at least a half hour or more run time with their tune.

Hey thanks for sharing as we all want to know more about the Cardone unit. It could be a steal at that price but we need some history for it in use. :)

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

So your saying i that if i have it all hooked up right it will run like a misfire for over a half an hour of driving? Then just fix itself because of the tune and relearn? Cause its acting crazy lol. I mean im thinking it is literally a cylinder off. I hope this is the case!

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

There is something wrong with either the tune or the engine if it takes closed loop and a bunch of fuel trim learning to get it running. What you are describing is NOT normal and should not be considered as such. It's bad tuning, mismatched parts, some kind of electrical/mechanical issue(s) with the engine, or some combination of the aforementioned.

I've not degraded you, simply stating facts. You can continue to take shots if you wish, but f this goes the same way it did with your nonsense on LS1tech, you may find the exact same boot on your backside here as you got there. JasonD and Injuneer warned you several years ago here to knock off trying to pass off bad advice as "good". I think it wise you remember and follow that warning.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...rances-868738/

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

No.....don't drive it. Cardo0 is just wrong in his direction to drive the car to fix it. You've got to track down what is causing the misfire.

Do you have a way to log the car? If you have a '95 and down you may be able to use Gary's free software to log it. You'll need to have a laptop and cable to log it. I do "okay" reading logs, but Injuneer is excellent at reviewing them.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

Can you post a video of a cold start?

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Cardo0 - you have a PM.

ACE1252 - let me take care of this

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Yeah i have a bosch scanner, i will go out tomorrow and turn the vehicle on, and record a video of the log with my phone, and show everything on there. I am thinking its just a simple misfire but i cannot wait to get her back to 100%....i love these cars and motors. Thank you guys for all the support and help, will let you know soon :)

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

The purpose of recording the data and presenting it as an Excel file is the ability to manipulate the numbers, using Excel, and to highlight relationships between various sensor reading and PCM parameters. At least that"s the way I've been doing it for 20+ years. A video of your Bosch scanner is not as useful, unless the problem is so obvious the it jumps right out at you.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Hopefully, him changing out the plugs and wires will fix it. I've damaged a set of plug wires pulling them off and putting them on. They were a set of aftermarket 7.5mm that had some really frustrating boots on them. They were super tight on the plug. That caused a misfire under load. I ended up going back to ACDelco wires(7mm) as I wanted to keep the factory looms and routing....I think all the other aftermarket wires were 8 or 8.5mm. Even with the Kooks headers, I've not burned a wire to date with the factory routing and ACdelco wires.

Ditto on the cvs log files. If he has access to a laptop and can get or make the cable...that would be best.

At the very least, the bosch might show which side(or both) is the issue with the trim numbers.

Low priced opti's seem to always be a crapshoot. The ACDelco remans make me a little nervous as I've seen some folks report issues with them....but I'd take one of them before a low priced opti as they are owned by GM.

For the OP's reference, have a look at these......it's how I would try to track down a misfire. I used these same methods to verify and fix a misfire on my '05 Nissan Frontier. This guy knows his stuff. I want a PicoScope badly, but they are sooooo expensive. However, something like a uScope is better than nothing.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I have not worked on the car because its been pissing and pouring RAIN for 2-3 days all day now. When i hook up the scanner it shows "left bank o2" is acting funny going from 70-800 sometimes and acts up alot compaired to the right bank.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

O2 activity will vary depending on mode of operation. Engine temp makes a big difference too....they don't start working until the engine is up to a certain temp. The O2's are supposed to cycle in closed loop mode. Using a log file, you can graph out the inputs and outputs in excel or calc. I like to use MegaLogViewer HD, but it costs a little cash. As Injuneer mentioned, makes seeing what the engine is doing much easier. Do the best you can to get a laptop, cable, and Gary's software working. Read through that post of his on how to get the setup working.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

With your scanner, look for the following:

- is the PCM in closed loop? There is a "flag" for this.

- are both Bank 1 and Bank 2 O2 sensors "ready"? There are "flags" for this.

- if it's in closed loop, are BOTH O2 sensors cycling back and forth?

- what is the CLT temp sensor reading? Is it rational, when considering how long the engine has been running?

As noted above, how the O2 sensors behave is dependent on the PCM's operating mode. When you start a cold engine, the O2 sensors aren't working, and the PCM is in open loop. The cold O2 sensors will stay steady at ~450 mV until they start to warm up. As the O2 sensors warm up, they will start to move, usually very slowly. If you still have a functioning AIR pump/system, the readings will drop toward 100 mV or less. If the AIR system is not functional, the O2 sensors readings will start to rise, because of the very rich cold start A/F ratio.

After 3 conditions are met, the PCM will enter closed loop. This requires 1) the CLT temp to reach a certain level (120-140-degF is common, but I've seen it transition at lower temps); 2) both O2 sensors are "ready"; and 3) a timer has timed out (typically 206-seconds.

In closed loop, the O2 reading on both sides should immediately start to cycle back and forth over a range 00X-9XX mV's. This is where the PCM starts to correct for a faulty A/F ratio. If the PCM has been cleared by pulling 12 volt power, the stored long term fuel trims (LTFT's) revert to 128 (0% correction). If for some reason the LTFT's were significantly different than 128, due to a programming error (example - wrong injector size) or equipment malfunction (example - faulty MAF sensor, faulty O2 sensor, vacuum leaks, etc.) the PCM will use the short term fuel trims (STFT's) to add or subtract fuel as required. If the STFT's are constantly adding or subtracting fuel, the PCM will, over a fairly short period of time, adjust the LTFT's up or down, until the STFT's are averaging 128 (0% correction). Note that the PCM only operates in one "Cell" at a time. The cells reflect different combinations of RPM and engine load (MAP). Let's focus ONLY on the "idle" cell - Cell 16, since that is where you indicate there is some roughness.

The above is why even with a screwed up system, it isn't going to take a half hour for everything to get straightened out and produce a smooth idle (assuming the spark is there and correctly timed). Yes, if you go out and drive the car at various RPM and MAP combinations, it will quickly update the cells you most frequently drive in, and may take days until you actually drive in some of the odd-ball combination cells. To clarify, STFT's are constantly changing.... they are not stored. They are an instantaneous reactions to the O2 sensor feedback. What is "learned" are the LTFT's. These are stored in volatile memory, and will be cleared if you pull 12 volt power from the PCM.

From the above, you will see that for a smooth idle, it is important for the PCM to see a reliable, accurate coolant temperature reading. The PCM only sets a code for a dead open or dead shorted system. Even if you have reconnected the CLT temp sensor, the wiring and the connector have to be in good condition, or the PCM may be getting bad data, causing the engine to run rough.

You expressed concern about low system voltage, and it's affect on the PCM. Per the 1994 factory manual, GM considers 9.6 - 16.0 volts to be "normal", at PCM terminal D3.. If voltage drops below 8.0 volts, the PCM sets DTC 50. Did you ever get that code? If not, it is unlikely that the low battery voltage is causing your problem. According to the manual, an extremely low voltage (below 5.5 volts) may cause loss of serial data in the PCM. I believe the stored values for the LTFT's should be kept with voltage as low as 6.0 volts, based on the fact that they sell an adapter that allows you to connect a 6 volt battery, and plug it into the cig lighter to maintain the volatile memory. I have never tried that, so I do not know how precise that is.

I will add that low voltage can also affect the fuel delivery. First, the pump loses capacity as voltage drops. But at idle, doesn't take much fuel to keep it smooth. Low voltage also slows down the injector operation, but the program should include "offsets" specific to the injector that compensate for voltage. As the injectors slow down, the offsets allow the PCM to extend the injector pulse widths to deliver the required amount of fuel.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

This one is not cheap(more on par with AC Delco remans without a core), but some of the folks on LS1tech are reporting that this opti is giving good results.

https://petrisenterprises.com/

Pin drive is $350, spline drive is $400.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Provided that rains go away!!!! I will have results of plugs and wires after tuesday hopefully.....getting tired of it raining EVERY day i get off when i need to get this thing fixed.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

Well after doing all that work, new plugs and wires, still could not get to number 6 cause of pacesetter longtubes being kinda tight in there. I am happy to report that the car finally fires on all 8 again and runs really well. I still have left bank running rich (all plugs pulled smelled of gas REALLY bad, other bank was fine. So an o2 sensor is in order, will be fixing the tps probelm soon. The opti so far shifts at 6200 with no misses and runs great!

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

This thread title has three words that normally shouldn't be used together but anyway, I've had good luck with Petris, so far. Not cheap but after talking with them, they're more concerned with using quality parts and have a warranty. I have not needed the warranty yet.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I am happy you got your optispark working. Your initial problem and thrown code is very similar to the P1371 code my NAPA optispark was throwing. The car ran fine but the code would remain, even when you cleared it with a scanner, the code would return but the car ran fine. What solved the problem? I was forced to buy the Petris Enterprises optispark since I couldn't pass my auto inspection with that code constantly being thrown. It worked. I came to the conclusion that the sensor used in the NAPA optispark was not of Mitsubishi grade quality and the computer needed it to be. The car ran okay but the computer was not happy! I have had no issues with my Petris Enterprises optispark and in fact the car runs much better with it compared to my experience with the NAPA optispark. I paid for the five year warranty and I am confident this optispark will last at least that long.

Re: Cheap good optispark?
 

I purchased a Cardone Opti from Rock Auto March 19, 2019. I had used Cardone parts in the past and was very happy with them, (not an opti with previous purchases).
Installed it on late March of 2019, this year, failed last week, June 6th, 2019.
Rock auto will only replace it, not refund my money. Why would I want another part of questionable value?

I am now disputing this charge with my credit card Co.
There is no longer a phone service at Rock auto to call and resolve this problem.

Beware!