Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
#31
Re: Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
Id carefully take a can of starter fluid and check for vacuum leaks around the intake. I would have said maybe swap both O2's but you already did. And a CC503 should NOT be the cause of split BLM's. What injectors are you running? Has it say a long time? It sucks to drop unneccisary cash but maybe having them flowtested wouldnt be a bad idea if it has sat for any long period of time.
Have you datalogged it?
No codes I assume?
Have you datalogged it?
No codes I assume?
#32
Re: Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
I put a log in the previous post. Injectors are stock 24 lbs.
It didn't really start doing this this badly until recently. I'm wondering if my regulator is bad? I mean I bought it brand new not long ago because the old stocker was giving me 48ish psi. New one is adjustable bwd 23065.
It didn't really start doing this this badly until recently. I'm wondering if my regulator is bad? I mean I bought it brand new not long ago because the old stocker was giving me 48ish psi. New one is adjustable bwd 23065.
#33
Re: Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
Back again....
Took a video of this "surge" i'm having when I either press in the clutch or go into neutral, say approaching a stop light for instance. In the video, the rpms go down when I press in the clutch, but surge back up to 1700rpms or so then go back down. It's really annoying. What do you guys think?
Took a video of this "surge" i'm having when I either press in the clutch or go into neutral, say approaching a stop light for instance. In the video, the rpms go down when I press in the clutch, but surge back up to 1700rpms or so then go back down. It's really annoying. What do you guys think?
#34
Re: Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
I've changed o2 sensors, resealed the intake twice, changed fpr, redid o2 grounds multiple times, readjusted valves, cleaned IAC, cleaned TB, seafoamed, adjusted TPS to read .6v, IAC counts are in the 20-30 range, reset TPS.........
I still randomly get the o2 high voltage codes. My o2's just don't bounce around like I think they are supposed to. I still just don't know if the two are related. For what it's worth, randomly, it won't surge like this. But it's so random I can't tell what is going on. It also does the mild surging at idle and low RPM/speed bucking too.
I still randomly get the o2 high voltage codes. My o2's just don't bounce around like I think they are supposed to. I still just don't know if the two are related. For what it's worth, randomly, it won't surge like this. But it's so random I can't tell what is going on. It also does the mild surging at idle and low RPM/speed bucking too.
Last edited by slikrider20; 09-13-2018 at 12:13 PM.
#35
Re: Cc503 issues, rpms sticking, high o2 volts, expertise needed
I posted this over on tech, but the more eyes the better. If Injuneer could examine this log i'd appreciate it.
Here you guys go. It was bizarre, because the o2's were working just perfectly even into closed loop, but then all of a sudden.....bang. They start freezing. You can really see it from like line 2500 on, especially at the end. Lots of times where the right bank is switching back and forth and the left just stays at .8 or .9.
You'll also notice a few times I get on it, when the o2's are acting right it goes to a commanded AFR of 12.8. (edit: I guess it doesn't show that very well in this log, I didn't get on it enough, but this IS what happens) When they start freezing, it goes down to 12.2. My fuel trims also seem to disappear when the o2's start freezing as well. What gives?
It's weird because at first both o2 volts bounce around, whether i'm at idle, or on the throttle. But at the end, it's the left bank that gets stuck at high volts during normal cruising and idle. But when I release the gas during DFCO, both will drop to 0.
At idle, if I force a vacuum leak (ie unplugging HVAC connection on intake) I can get both banks to drop. Or, if I pump the brake fairly hard a couple times I can also get the banks to drop. I can't find any vacuum leaks, and this doesn't explain why they only act up after it's been running awhile. Over my head.
Here you guys go. It was bizarre, because the o2's were working just perfectly even into closed loop, but then all of a sudden.....bang. They start freezing. You can really see it from like line 2500 on, especially at the end. Lots of times where the right bank is switching back and forth and the left just stays at .8 or .9.
You'll also notice a few times I get on it, when the o2's are acting right it goes to a commanded AFR of 12.8. (edit: I guess it doesn't show that very well in this log, I didn't get on it enough, but this IS what happens) When they start freezing, it goes down to 12.2. My fuel trims also seem to disappear when the o2's start freezing as well. What gives?
It's weird because at first both o2 volts bounce around, whether i'm at idle, or on the throttle. But at the end, it's the left bank that gets stuck at high volts during normal cruising and idle. But when I release the gas during DFCO, both will drop to 0.
At idle, if I force a vacuum leak (ie unplugging HVAC connection on intake) I can get both banks to drop. Or, if I pump the brake fairly hard a couple times I can also get the banks to drop. I can't find any vacuum leaks, and this doesn't explain why they only act up after it's been running awhile. Over my head.
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01-22-2015 02:45 PM