Ok, we thought that naturally it was the starter, so I ordered up a CVR from Jegs. Both (stock and new) test fine. We bypassed the clutch switch (which tested fine as well) and it still won't start.

We even tried charging the battery to make sure it wasn't low voltage, but that wasn't the case either. We're out of idea's. Anyone have any?

 

Also: Solenoid Wire had 3 volts and the main had 12 on both starters.

 

Bad ground wire.Check all your grounds off the engine.

 

See if you get 12v on the the purple starter wire when the key is turned to START.

 

Well, we think we've narrowed it down, theres a crimp in the wire that runs from the starter solenoid to the starter. Is there anything in between?

 

I think there's a relay under the dash on the passenger side. I'm not sure of it's function, but the purple wire comes out of it. In fact if I remember right it has like a small 18 gauge yellow/black wire and a bigger brown wire that goes to the body control module. The big yellow wire comes from the neutral safety (A4) and the purple runs to the solenoid to start the car..

just a thought
...Brady

 

I know you said you charged the battery but, if the battery is really low, has a dead cell (plainly is no good) that is the very first place you need to double check.

Batteries usually are mostly to fault.JMHO

 

We're 99% sure its the pass-key. My spare key is on its way down now.

On further note: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...807#post742807

 

If the pass key were the problem the security light would be on or blinking.

Bypass it with a resistor at the connector at the bottom of the steering column.

Use the same value as the key resistor is. Within 10 + or -

 

be careful ! you might have a killer after you! thats usually why it won't start

couldn't resist

 

The light is on, we just didn't notice it (figures). With my SES Light on all the time (exhaust), yellow from that side of the car just blends in naturally

 

Ok, the Key's test fine, both are 931 ohms. The resistance @ the connector is 1600-1700 but it won't remain constant. So I guess I should replace the switch harness?????

 

Or just stick a resistor close to 931 ohms into the connectors going back to the PassKey module and drive on. At least it would be good for a test.

You could also try to clean the key cylinder with whatever you can, too.

 

Man, I don't even know how to find that many resistors . Thats my project for some time this week. If that doesn't fix it, I'm pushing her off a cliff .

 

So was yours in the 1130 ohms (acceptable range 1085-1195) category?

Meaning that mine is in the 887 ohms (acceptable range 850-942) category? So which resistors would i need? I have no clue how electrical BS works

Do I need like a 4.7 and a 2.2 or like a 4.7 and two 1's for each "bank"?