Here's my story
Hey guys I'm hoping someone can help. I have a 97 Trans Am with only 60,000kms on it. Wen I was driving home last Friday afternoon after an hour drive it seemed to shift kind of weird between 1st and 2nd. I got home check the fluid and all was good. This was around 6 when I got home. I tried to start it to go out later around midnight and all it does is crank over won't start.
I went to start the car the next afternoon and it started. It didn't start right away the engine turns over a bit i much before it starts. I notice this in the past week almost like a carburetor car would. I thought this to be out of the Norm. I put a clear spark plug tester on it and I have spark. After about 3-4 starts it won't start again.
Later my buddy came over and we heard the fuel pump kick on the car started and ran nice. Great spark from the spark plug tester. Shut it off and started it again no problem. The fourth time wouldn't start again and the light in the spark plug tester wasn't very strong. I was guessing the ignition control module. But I went to AutoZone and they tested it (5 times) and said it was good..
So far I believe it's getting gas and enough the battery is good and the ICM tested good.

It starts once in a while but won't stay running

I've changed the crank position sensor, fuel filter and the ignition control module and charged the battery.

I jumped a new coil so I know it's not that. The only other thing is the distributor???

I put a code reader in and no codes come up
Any help would be awesome

I turned it in when I had the gas filter off and got a nice stream. So it does seem the fuel pump is working. I also hit the gas bleeding valve and seemed to spout far out pretty nice.

The ignition control module is brand new.

Thanks for the replies.

I don't have anything to check the fuel pressure so that's all I know about that. I'm trying to borrow one.

I'm fairly confident that the ignition control module is good being it's new and it's the same issue.

The tach doesn't move to 300 it just barely guess over 0 when I turn the car over.

I figured out after I replaced the crank position sensor that wasn't an issue. Buy seeing how that code came up why not.

Could it be the fuel relay under the kick panel?

Confusing.l. You indicated you put a code reader on it but none came up? But now you say you had a CKP sensor code. Which one (there are two)? The CKP code can be caused by bad data from the Opti cam position sensor, since the PCM is comparing crank data to cam data to detect misfires.

Any other codes you didn’t mention?

Sorry

I did get that code originally then I replaced that sensor with a new one. Ran the codes again after and no codes came up.


Could it be the fuel relay?

Fuel pressure tested

Had the car running for about 5-10 minutes fuel pressure only got to 32 them died won't start again.

Checked the fuel relay it seemed warm on the bottom.

Let the car sit pressure when I turned on the key would only go to about 12 and won't start.

Those FP #'s are way low. Unless your fuel filter is severely clogged, your fuel pump or the wiring to it in tank are bad


Fuel filter is new. I'm going to try a relay that's only $20. If it's not that then I guess the pump? But it works sometimes then fails that's why I'm thinking relay?

If the pump runs for two seconds when you turn the key to “run” (not “start”) the relay is fine. Pump should prime to at least 40 PSI at shutoff, and pressure should not drop rapidly. You can test the pump by providing 12 volts to the fuel pump prime connector. This bypasses the security system and the relay.

courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

With the engine idling, the pressure could be as low as 32 PSI. But you have to disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Pressure should increase, with 43.5 PSI being the design value, and GM specs accepting anything between 41 to 47 PSI. When you reconnect the vacuum line to the regulator, pressure should drop about 8 to 10 PSI below what you measured without the vacuum line connected.

​​​​Wi​​​th the engine idling, the pressure could be as low as 32 PSI. But you have to disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Pressure should increase, with 43.5 PSI being the design value, and GM specs accepting anything between 41 to 47 PSI. When you reconnect the vacuum line to the regulator, pressure should drop about 8 to 10 PSI below what you measured without the vacuum line connected.

Ok when I hooked up the fuel gauge that's what I was getting 32. I took the vacuum line of the fuel pressure regulator and it when to 39-41.And when I reconnected it stopped back down
When I turn the car on the fuel pressure gauge doesn't move I had seen it go up to 20psi once I think.

But the car will only run for 5 minutes or less then won't start again until it suits for over an hour

Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate the help

when you turn key on, engine off, the FP gauge should "snap" to 43psi....then drop about 5 psi when the pump stops priming..not slowly rise

The gauge slowly went up to about 15 that's it and it only stayed and then died wouldn't start again

If you do get the motor started again let it run for a few minutes then shut off. Pull the vacuum elbow off FPR...is there any sign of fuel in that rubber nipple?

If so FPR is bad

No sign of fuel in this line looks dry and new

On the start, run 10 min, then stall and not re-start until motor is cool again...text book symptom for a failing ICM. They may test good when room temp. If you take it to get tested again use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat it up and test to see if it is good

Yes the pressure Seems to drop but the question is because it's not getting fuel or because something else.
I've owned this car since 97 never had any issues at all.
I've since replaced the fuel filter, ignition control module, crank position sensor, fuel relay trying to solve. I'd love to know if it's the fuel pump before I take that.
Someone mentioned the security system but that wouldn't let the car ruin for longer than a minute before the system shut down the engine.

The thing is after it stalls out and I'm turning it over it seems to be starving for gas and no pressure reading on the fuel rail. That's where I'm thinking fuel pump failing or can't keep up so on it's way out?

I thinking that I need to get into the tank too.

Now the question cut a hole in the trunk or try to drop the exhaust and tank. My car is a convertible. I'm really leaning towards cutting an access hole?

There's a “trapdoor” sticky thread in the “Fuel and Ignition” forum. Post #122 has a link to a photo of the convertible location. Not so much a location difference as it is a structural difference.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...th-gen-619463/

Glad it worked out for you.

Thank you for following up with info regarding your solution. Wish everyone would do that.