Cam. Is it too big?
 

My 396 went bye bye so I'm gonna just build a 350 and swap all the stuff over to the 350.

Here's the specs.
232/242 110 LSA .544/.560 lift @ .500

So will it be it be a dawg or what?

Thanks!

too big for what?

tune it and it will be fine for daily driving. cubes/stroke eat up cams...

Is it too big for a 350? Didn't ya read my post? :D The 396 is dead. I'm gonna put it in a LT1 350 instead.

Shouldnt be too big with some head work!

So as not to get into a Pi$$ing contest with the bigger is better crowd, let me say this about that: If you are going with a stock 350, even with heads, I believe that a smaller cam will provide ample performance and driveability. There are reportedly small cams that can put you into the low 12s/high 11s and not beat you to death at idle.

Its not necessarily how big everything is, but rather how the whole thing works together.JMHO:cool:

Ive got a 234/242 with more lift, but on a 112. Stock heads and it is fine. Idles better than my old hotcam.

Ive noticed alot of people going with these big cams and highly modded cars running slower than some bolt on cars. Whats up with that?

Dunno, but I've noticed alot of stock eliminator cars running 10's and they can't run much lift, so they run alot of duration. They've gotta run stock non-ported heads too. So with alot of gear, big duration, weight reduction and lots of suspesion tuning they're going pretty quick.

Maybe someone's doing something wrong, but you do need to turn rpm to make power.

-Mindgame

Thanks guys. I'm just trying to minimize my $$ as much as possible that's why I'm cannibalizing the 396. Only makes sense to some degree. If the heads worked marvels on the 396 then on the 350 it should be quite nice. I'm just basically rebuilding it to it's old form and then selling the car. But in order to get any real money out of it it has to be operational ya think? :D

what happened to the 396 if you dont mind me asking? in my very unprofessional opinion... that cam is a little too radical for a 350 on the street but this gears and tuning it might be insteresting.

I spun the bearing in it. Long story short? Valve cover gaskets were the culprit. Over time they melted and the goop got down past the galleys into the pump. Never saw it coming since I only took the valve covers off once in it's 5K existence.

Dumb question turboZ if you are still reading. Hypothetically speaking of course. If the block is still good along w/ rods, pistons. Can I just throw a 305 or 350 crank w/ new bearings and roll out w/ the existing platform? I just trying to cut down on cost as much as possible. Has anyone destroked a LT1 before or is there more required that I'm unaware of? And if so what cubic inch does that put me at w/ a 350 crank 5.85 rod and overside 396 pistons w/ the usual .030 overbore?

look in sig, no times/numbers yet.

before this cam was 236/236 @.560/.560

well i dont know if my car is a freak or not .. but my CC306 didnt even peak out at 6800 (still made sh*t for power) but the hp was still on the rise at 6800 ... so with a stock PCM u can only rev to 7200 (or 7000 not sure) .. so if u got any set of decent heads .. with a cam bigger than a CC306 u might never even see ur peak hp !

or with a big cam and stock heads, u'll be choking ur cam where it makes the most power so the poor cam wont even see that rpm ...

zblkhellrzr: dude if i was you i'd keep it a 396 i mean so what you spun a bearing if its salvagable 10/10 grind that damn crank and slap er back together, and have the races checked out(part bearing goes in) . if you run a 3.48 stock 350 stroke crank with a .030 overbore its 355 cubic inches only problem being you'll need new pistons with the diff crank or they'll be way in the hole the compression hieght will be all wrong. if it was me and the crank wasnt salvagable i'd buy a 3.75" cast scat crank and a set of keith black hypers to keep it on the cheap. only reason i'm saying go with a stroker crank is your'e already clearanced. i'd probably just ball hone the cylinders if thats all they needed to clean up otherwise .010 more bore should easily take care of the "egging". on another note time you buy new pistons you could probably have exactly the same crank you've got now. hell theres a lot of 3.875 stroke cranks out there somebody will surely have one thats "affordable" just seems to me like you could fix it easier than build another engine. spinning a bearing isnt the end of the world.

JMHO... that cam is fine it'll idle a tad rough but speed it up to like 1k and it'll smooth out a lot. the tight lsa should help mid range tq a lot.

Peak HP is mostly a result of lower LSA, higher exhaust to intake ressio, loss of port velocity, ie if your heads flow too much for your displacement your peak HP moves up & so does your peak torque obviously.