I need to replace mine and got a call from a salvage yard that said they had one off of a 96 LT1, but wasn't sure if it worked or not. Is there a way to test an A/C Compressor for leaks when it is off of the car?

 

I'll tell you the same thing I just posted a little bit ago..


it;s really not worth it getting a used one. It will leak like crazy out the front seal 99% of the time.


and this is acyaly considering it was not locked up in teh first place or warn out that it doesn;t biuld up enough pressure on the suction side.


and if your old comp locked up you need to change teh reciver/drier and flush the lines and the condensor really well

 

I have one for sale off my 96 SS. It was taken off in working condition, 36k mi car andi hardly used it at all. Let me know if you are interested.

 

Make sure to replace the reciever drier because once exposed to the humidity the desicant in it will saturate with moisture and will be junk as well as replace the oriface tube. They are cheap and should be replaced anytime the comp and reciever drier are replaced.

 

no, it didn't lock up, because you can fill it with freon and it blows real cold until it all leaks out of the compressor. Is there a seal I can replace on my current compressor? or is it totally gone?

 

Actually its r-134a . I'm taking off my AC within the next couple days so if no one answers that question I may be able to.

 

yeah that would be great

because if it's possible to just replace a seal, where would I get one? how would i replace it? of course this is only if it's possible, or worth it.

 

you can;t just replace the front seal..



but here is my point. GM compressors are HORRIBLE for leaking at the front seal. so any uused compressor can already ahve not problem or can develop it fast, the fact that it sits unused for a given amount of time makes it TWICE as bad. the seal shrinks from not being used. this is why the AC comes on when you put the defroster on, so the AC runs even in the winter.



also. as stated normaly the Oriface tube is replaced with any AC service. But unless some years are different we do not have one. Ours is an Expantion system with the expantion valve mounted where the lines go into the evap Core. if the compressor locks up you should cange it and flush he evap core along with everything esle but you do not "have" to replace it with the compressor but it;s not a bad Idea.


as for the drier liek said the desicant bag will saturate with moiture and should be replaced when you open the system and sholue be teh LAST thing installed. it also helps with keeping the system nice and cool. This is why most manufatures recomend replacing them every 2 years... but no ne ever does

 

well new compressors are expensive as hell. I can get a remanufactured one pretty cheap, but of course some places want $200-300 to replace it.

How hard is it really to do yourself? looks like basically you just take the belt off, and unbolt everything off of the compressor, attached the new compressor and fill up the system? seems to easy of a job for a shop to charge 200-300 to do....what am i missing?

 

AC work is complex. everything has to go right or it will never ever work correctly. parts are expensive and labor is as well caus eit;s time consuming. from what I hear getting at the bolts for teh compressor is a PITA on our cars but I have not done one yet.


you MUST get the freon evacuated at a shop. this will suck it all out so you can open the system.

Then you can remove the compressor and drier.


now... with teh remaned compressors (most new ones have it in already) you Must add the correct amount and type of oil into the suction port of teh compressor BEFORE installing it. Then you can bolt it up. then you can bolt up the drier making sure to replace EVERY o ring that is exposed when you remove lines and components and to asure a good seal put a little of teh oil on the o rings as well


after all that is done you must rotate the compressor clutch by hand (or pliers) about 10 times to ciurculate the oil and prime the system.

The next step amlost all do it yourselfers skip but is very important.

you NEED to have the system pulled down to a vacuum. AC shops use a vac pump to pull the stsyem down to about 30 inches of vacuum for about a half hour. This will remove any moisture left over and make fore easier freon charge.


The other thing you have to realize is if you fil it yourself you at best only see the low side pressure. the high side she also be seen if you want to do it correctly. Too low of pressure and the comp will cycle on and off and you run teh risk of freezing up the system.. too high and it will not cool well and if the pressure switchs go bad you can explode lines ect ect ect

 

After some digging around I found my Haynes Manual (I knew it was around here somewhere), and this is what I am gathering from it, and what HBHRacing has said(thanks man for all the info)

-take the belt off
-remove the bolt holding the suction and discharge lines from the back
-remove the rear compressor mount
-remove the other, what looks like 3 bolts, from the compressor
-put oil into the new compressor
-reverse the procedure for installation
-evacuate and recharge the system(I would have a shop do that for me)

what else am i missing?

 

The manual always makes it look easy. When I bought my '94Z the compressor wasn't working but the person I got it from said they would fix it and since we were friends we decided to do it ourselves. It took almost 6 hours with two of us working on it and it was up in the air. Problem is there is no room to reach in and get at it. I'm sure someone experienced could do it easier but it was a genuine pita for us!!!

 

i wonder how it compares to changing the plugs with stock manifolds