Well, I want to swap out my rotating assembly with some forged goodies and drop the compression to like 9 1/2:1 and run a Procharger or some kind of forced induction... maybe a turbo. I dunno

Anyway, is it possible to just swap the rotating assembly out with the engine still mounted to the car?

Or is it stupid to do all that and not even have the cylinders honed out? I already replaced the entire valvetrain, its all brand new. Heads are still stock though... any ideas on this? It would be real fun to have an 10-11 second daily driver... :-)

Any suggestions of which pistons, rods, and crank to go with? One that could rev to like 6500 with COMPLETE ease and handle some nice boost?

 

Chris,

How much boost?

Best thing to do is yank the motor out..... if it's not a 355 already you should go .020 or .030 over depending on the pistons you can get.

Sticking with the stock LT1 castings?

Bret

 

Man, I feel like a total d!psh!t right now... "Stock LT1 Castings" What does that mean exactly?

And it would hopefully be about 10-12 psi. There is a dude on this forum who was running 11.4 on a Vortech S Trim, heads, cam, and DR's... so I know not totally unattainable. Its a fresh idea that would be awesome if I could make it reality... just forging my engine and adding some forced induction just seems much easier then the way I originally intended...

 

stock LT1 castings............he's refering to the heads.

 

That all depends on my budget and all that. But I do not plan on keeping stock heads, no... I want to put down some nice numbers and some good times.

 

hello!!!!... Elliot's portworks!!!!

 

Do you realize what that will cost? The machine work to the block (must happen outside of the car, unless you find one hell of a 5-axis machine lol) will be in the $500-700 range minimum, and then you will have an easy 5k into the forced induction setup. Now you will start to break other things down the line. If you plan to go with AFR heads or similar, be ready to end up paying better than $15k as it will add up faster than you can believe. There is a good reason that there aren't a whole lot of 550-600rwhp cars out there. Its all doable, just depends on how much you want to spend.

 

I'm doing a 355 Turbo motor right now and the Short Block with AFR 210 Comp Ported is not cheap.

Hell I would do a dish piston, H beam, 2 bolt with a girdle, stock crank, stock ported heads deal with a hyd roller cam and call it good if you want to do a cheap setup that will take 10-12lbs.

Bret

 

You will want lower than 9.5:1 compression with 10-12 psi of boost. More like 8:1. The machine work shouldn't cost $500-$700. I'm having mine bored .030, hot tanked, magnafluxed, new freeze plugs, align honed, decked, all parts installed and balanced for less than that. You can get some 23cc dished forged pistons for about $350, h-beam rods around $250, stock crank, new bearings and rings, and stud the mains. You should also get ARP main studs and rod bolts. I found a used Vortech blower for $500. You can always wait on the cam and heads for later if you don't have the money now. That will cost from $1600 and up, depending on how extravagant you go. The little odds and ends will add up quick though. Injectors, fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regualtor, tuning, and other small things. You should be able to keep it under $6k and make some nice numbers.

 

h beam rods for 250? stock crank? don't know about that.
if your going to have 500+ rwhp i don't think u want to have a stock crank. block is in the shop right now, and trust me, sh*it adds up !$!

 

The stock crank can easily handle 500 rwhp. There is no need to replace it unless you have money to blow and want to push crazy amounts of boost and hp.

 

ya, but the shop i deal with charges around 230 for polishing and turning a crank ( well actually they send it somewhere ) and u get get a forged eagle for 300 right?

only thing is, my place says they get some eagle cranks that aren't straight, so if u order on your own, might be a good idea to take it and have it checked out, or order through a speed shop so they can check it for ya.
then again thats just 1 opinion. hope everythign works out for ya!

 

$230 for polishing and turning the crank? Wow. That sucks. The local machine shop i go to charges $25. Eagle cast steel cranks are around $300. The forged will be a lot more than that.

 

H Beams are normally $350-$400 that's the normal price for them.
4340 Forged Cranks, $600
$25-$50 to polish a crank
$100-$150 to GRIND a crank undersize

9:1 is not hard on a blower motor, turbo motors are much tougher since the boost comes in eariler.

Oh yeah and the stock crank blowing up at 500rwhp? Yeah maybe if you don't know what oil pressure and bearing clearances to run it at.

Power doesn't always kill cranks it's RPM, thats why 400hp circle track motors need 4340 forged cranks.

It's nice to know the reasons why things happen, allows you to make better choices.

Bret

 

So if I get the 4340 Crank, H Beams Rods, and those Dish Pistons... that should be able to my handle boost and get me low 11's? All the other supporting garbage (Fuel Pump, injectors, suspension, etc...) will come, just want the engine first.

How will the car run without the FI until I get the cash to get it on there?