Bolt on record
 

Hey guys been a long time since ive been on the site, been busy. I wanted to show people the plans i have for my 1994 Lt1 t56. I have some serious plans for her and i wanted everyones opinion. I am going for the bolt on record for an LT1. here are the list of parts, im hoping to show i can hit 340 rwhp and 350 rwtq with just bolt ons, then when the motor blows....well ill be doing a serious build. Here are the parts i have in mind.

Mildan race oil pan:

Mildan race windage tray:

Electric water pump either miezier or summit brand:

lt1 alternator relocation bracket:

Vaccume pump moroso or electric:

Valve covers: for vaccume pump

Fidanza aluminum flywheel:

Ls1 coil coversion?

Pertronix ignition box:

Micronite processed transmission:

Lightweight clutch and pressure plate:

Jessel belt drive:

Fluid dampner:

High output alternator:

High output batter:

Lower guage wires all around:

Royal purple racing oil in motor:

BMR k member and upper and lower control arms:

Manual steering rack:

1.7 Roller Rockers....springs:

Carbon fiber driveshaft:

I know what your thinking, sounds exspensive....but i really want to see if i can accomplish this. Besides all these mods will help the entire car, problem is i won't beat the current et time due the fact that im a 290lb fat ass and the car is a full body car. Purely street this time, no stripping.

Re: Bolt on record
 

Better review that list...I'll bet folks wouldn't recommend using at least half that stuff....

Re: Bolt on record
 

The power programmer is a serious down fall !!!!!! You need a real tune...
Forget that ignition box too.....
Let me help you out hard-working
160° stat
NEW valve springs
1.7 rockers, 7/16 studs, flat guide plates, chromoly push rods and titanium retainers.
Competition clutch stage 3
Electric water pump
4.30 gears
E.T. streets 28"
SLP lid assembly
PCM for less tune

Re: Bolt on record
 

If I read this right, the "record" he is trying to break is for rear wheel HP, not actual strip performance. He indicates his car is too heavy. While I would agree a lot of stuff on the list isn't going to help accomplish his goal, putting 28" ET Streets on it will eat up rear wheel HP. Ditto with a heavy competition clutch. Those are great for the track, but apparently he wants a dyno queen.

Some thoughts:

- stock ignition, assuming all components are functioning correctly, is more than adequate for a "bolt on" application. Don't need a multiple spark box, 8 LS1 coils, etc.

- why "micronize" the trans? A rwhp dyno pull is done in 4th gear, no sliding gear contact involved. On the other hand micronizing the ring and pinion will minimize the biggest consumer of driveline HP.

- does Jessel even make a belt drive timing set for the LT1? And what is the advantage? I remember reading a detailed comparison and dyno test on a high performance (Gen1) SBC in Engine Masters magazine, of chain, gear and belt drives, and there was really no significant difference in HP.

- vacuum pumps are great for power adder systems and very high compression NA setups, to remove the high rate of ring blow by. But I suspect on a "bolt on" setup it will eat up more HP to drive it than it will produce.

- not sure how a tubular front suspension will help rwhp on a dyno. Or think about the steering rack. Just take the serpentine belt off for the dyno pull.

- not sure what the advantage is of a "high output" alternator or battery. Stock charging system is more than adequate.

- what are "lower gauge" wires? Do you mean lower numerical (heavier gage)? Again, other than maybe the fuel pump, the stock wiring is fine.

As far as the Milodon oil pan and windage tray, and the Fluid Damper (aka crank snout remover) I'm open to learning the advantages. I've copied many features of my build from a buddy that pushed his 30th Anniversary SS convertible to 1,125 flywheel HP, and we used the stock oil pan and stock windage tray.

Re: Bolt on record
 

I am trying to get the most "efficient" bolt on engine only, then ill build a real setup. Also this is for a N/A car so im looking for anything that even adds 5 hp. I installed a bmr k member before on my 93 i had and the suspension, lightended it up by 45 lbs, but the problem is its alot of money for that kind of weight loss. But it does make it easier to work on and clearances are alot better.....like getting the oil pan off ext. Also i ran with just an alternator and crank pulley back then. The setup did seem to help with the "speed" at which the motor took off.

Now as far as the fluidamner goes im in question on that, cause its so heavy vs the ati super, and it has no underdrive.

The reason for a high output ignition, well i have a theory that the power strokes at low and high rpm are missed. Another words as long as they are never missed this should be worth some power. And make the engine run ALOT smoother, ive seen how most ls1s, for modulars all seem to have better throttle respone and have just a better feel, mine runs good now but i want it to be perfect.

The wires, i was looking into 0 Resistance Granatelli wires wires and yes they may be a bit bigger but 0omms was said to give 10 rwhp on a newer model.

I would love to get the better et, but with the weight of the car, and my fat ass.....thats gonna be hard....i just wanna see how "efficient" i can make this old LT1. :)

And i would love to beat the current bolt on lt1 time record honestly, but im not sure how much power i would actually need, im sure thats gonna take gears, tire, and a **** ton of weight reduction.

Re: Bolt on record
 

Thank you Fred, my interpretation was just a little bit different.

As far as the most possible HP/TQ can be extracted from a bolt on Lt1 that I have managed has been with my old 96 z 6 speed was 317/336 with old wires 323/ 347 with new Taylor wires and Walbro 255 lph pump w/hotwire kit.
That was with
1.6 rockers
Taylor wires
NGK tr55 gapped at .040
Pacesetter LTs
2.5" X pipe and 10 series flowmasters full length exhaust
Mad tuner tune
LS1 lid set up w/SLP lid and K&N filter
stock 48 mm TH with air foil
stock injectors
last dyno in 2007 323/347......2400' DA 18% humidity 92°....
1-1.3 HP per cubic inch is definitely attainable
Since I live in Las Vegas our cars suffer from ugly DA My best pass was on BFG 315 drag radials, sfc, lca, spare & jack removed 12.98@106 3004' DA, 55°, 26% humidity, barometric pressure 29.70
The only way I could have gotten more power out of my Lt1 would have been to instal an EWP, remove the stock valve springs and put better springs and lighter retainers, 1.7 rockers and a dyno tune which could have produced an additional 15-20 at the tire however, i DO NOT know for sure.
Hope this helps

Re: Bolt on record
 

Those are damn good numbers, i love that torque number to! Well i hope to have results sometime later this year with my setup. I hope to beat that record but very impressive number sir! Im sure it hauled ass lol.

Re: Bolt on record
 

I have never seen anyone break 320 rwhp with out pulling the heads, at that point you are beyond bolt-ons.

Re: Bolt on record
 

Here's a place to start if you haven't seen this before:

WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am

Others will likely disagree but I, personally, don't like the 1.7:1 ratio rockers. I think the geometry is suspect and side loading the valve stem probable. If you're looking for maximum hp numbers and aren't worried about longevity then go for it.


Yes, LS series engines use 1.7 rockers but the geometry is different.

An aluminum flywheel is great for road racing but not for drag racing...the heavier parts makes the launch easier. And I need all the help I can get in that department. A lightweight flywheel does let the engine gain and lose revs more quickly but this won't really matter on the dyno.

I think your goal of 340 rwhp is quite bit out of reach. There are guys with small cams that don't get there. Instead of doing this and waiting for the engine to blow up (I've never heard anybody want to do that either :( ), why not just do a serious build from the start?