Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Hey guys,
I just bought a 1995 Camaro Z28 and it needs an oil change pronto! I was just wondering what you guys recommend. Which is the best Oil and oil filter to use on the Z28? Thanks in advance!
I just bought a 1995 Camaro Z28 and it needs an oil change pronto! I was just wondering what you guys recommend. Which is the best Oil and oil filter to use on the Z28? Thanks in advance!
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 3,499
From: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
For the first change, I would recommend a good quality, e.g., Q State, Pennzoil, etc. dino oil and filter. Probably should use something like a 10W-40. Check the old oil for shavings and cut the old filter in half to check for shavings in there as well. Check your oil pressure before you change the oil---at startup, idle and 1500 rpm so that you have a basis for comparison once you change your oil.
I believe when you buy a used engine that you should error on the side of caution before you start playing with synthetics and thin oils. You can always change later once you know what you have. JMHO
I believe when you buy a used engine that you should error on the side of caution before you start playing with synthetics and thin oils. You can always change later once you know what you have. JMHO
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Posts: 6,518
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Nick,
K&N and Mobil1 filters are probably the best out there. As for oil Mobil1 would be your best bet IMHO. I stick with 5w-30 on motors but if you have very hot weather then a 10w-30 would be ok, no real need to go any higher.
Bret
K&N and Mobil1 filters are probably the best out there. As for oil Mobil1 would be your best bet IMHO. I stick with 5w-30 on motors but if you have very hot weather then a 10w-30 would be ok, no real need to go any higher.
Bret
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 3,499
From: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Again: If you don't know what is in there now, and you don't know the history of the engine (how it was driven, how it was maintaned, etc.) I would stay away from thinner oils and synthetics for the first change.
Starting off with high priced oil and filters may be a mistake if the internals are well worn and you might wind up with some unwanted leaks right away---in which case you will probably wind up changing the oil and filter again in order to fix the leaks. Worst senario would be to get a dramatic drop in oil pressure at startup which may turn your new car into a piece of scrap metal in a nano second. I'm just say'n.
It's your car, your decision and your money.
There is plenty of time to get into the never-ending discussion about which oil is best, etc.JMHO
Starting off with high priced oil and filters may be a mistake if the internals are well worn and you might wind up with some unwanted leaks right away---in which case you will probably wind up changing the oil and filter again in order to fix the leaks. Worst senario would be to get a dramatic drop in oil pressure at startup which may turn your new car into a piece of scrap metal in a nano second. I'm just say'n.
It's your car, your decision and your money.
There is plenty of time to get into the never-ending discussion about which oil is best, etc.JMHO
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Posts: 1,444
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Grades of motor oil (Shamelessly ripped from Wikipedia)
In a nutshell, bigger numbers = less viscus ("thicker") oil. http://xtronics.com/reference/viscosity.htm
For comparisson sake, differential fluid is typically 75W90 and flows like molasses in Canadian January.
5W30 is probably your best bet for motor oil, what area do you live in ?
Single-grade motor oil
The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. For single-grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a reference temperature of 100 °C (212 °F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as an SAE number 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number is. These numbers are often referred to as the weight of a motor oil. The reference temperature is meant to approximate the operating temperature to which motor oil is exposed in an engine.
The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases logarithmically in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at cold winter (W) temperature (as well as checking minimum viscosity at 100 °C or 212 °F) to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. A single-grade oil graded at the hot temperature is expected to test into the corresponding grade at the winter temperature; i.e. a 10 grade oil should correspond to a 10W oil. For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines.
Multi-grade motor oil
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.
The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.
The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. For single-grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a reference temperature of 100 °C (212 °F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as an SAE number 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number is. These numbers are often referred to as the weight of a motor oil. The reference temperature is meant to approximate the operating temperature to which motor oil is exposed in an engine.
The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases logarithmically in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at cold winter (W) temperature (as well as checking minimum viscosity at 100 °C or 212 °F) to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. A single-grade oil graded at the hot temperature is expected to test into the corresponding grade at the winter temperature; i.e. a 10 grade oil should correspond to a 10W oil. For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines.
Multi-grade motor oil
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.
The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.
For comparisson sake, differential fluid is typically 75W90 and flows like molasses in Canadian January.
5W30 is probably your best bet for motor oil, what area do you live in ?
Last edited by user 647483; Jun 30, 2006 at 02:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Bubba,
I know that the owner of the car ( a relative of mine) took good care of it. It was hardly driven and mostly a weekend car. I believe that he used Valvoline Synthetic the last time. There is no oil pressure gauge so I wouldn't be able to check it. It seems that the oil pressure gauge is highly recommended, so I may get one in the near term future. The car basically needs a tune-up. So I guess that constitutes changing the wires, sparkplugs and oil and oil filter. Am I missing anything else for the tuneup? By the way, thanks for all the help guys! Your answers are very helpful!
I know that the owner of the car ( a relative of mine) took good care of it. It was hardly driven and mostly a weekend car. I believe that he used Valvoline Synthetic the last time. There is no oil pressure gauge so I wouldn't be able to check it. It seems that the oil pressure gauge is highly recommended, so I may get one in the near term future. The car basically needs a tune-up. So I guess that constitutes changing the wires, sparkplugs and oil and oil filter. Am I missing anything else for the tuneup? By the way, thanks for all the help guys! Your answers are very helpful!
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 3,499
From: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Good: Now a couple of things. The plugs probably haven't ever been changed--same goes for the wires. Before running out and buying plugs and wires, I suggest pulling one of the plugs for an analysis (get the easiest one) report back on the condition. If the plugs were platinums their center elecrodes (pucks) are probably worn suffieciently to where some new plugs may be in order. If they are coppers they will mostly like need changing. Check the gap on the plug--should be around .050, but with that many miles I imagine that the gaps will be larger. Bear in mind that changing plugs in an F-Body can be a real experience. As for wires, note the condition, etc. before messing with new ones---remember this is no walk in the park, especially for one not conversant with the F-Body.
One important thing to note is the Opti Spark (distributor). This the weak link in the electrical system on an Lt1. It is susceptible to moisture and if you get it wet giving your new baby a bath can lead to failure which in turn means
piggy bank time.
I'm going to hazard a guess that you are not only new to the Lt1, but to engines in general--we have all been there. So take a deep breath, take advantage of the knowledge and experience on this site, and have great time with your new car.
One important thing to note is the Opti Spark (distributor). This the weak link in the electrical system on an Lt1. It is susceptible to moisture and if you get it wet giving your new baby a bath can lead to failure which in turn means
piggy bank time.
I'm going to hazard a guess that you are not only new to the Lt1, but to engines in general--we have all been there. So take a deep breath, take advantage of the knowledge and experience on this site, and have great time with your new car.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,544
From: Michigan
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Royal purple. I did a whole test/research project in my college Fuels and Lubricants class last semester worked great. It did protect better than mobile 1 and valvoline, but they were very close to it. I'm talking fully synthetics here...
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,225
From: IN
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Best combo for your car with its current mileage would be Royal Purple oil, and a Mobil 1 (part# M1-302) for the filter. Mobil 1 oil would be my next choice if you didn't want to use the Royal Purple for oil.
Once you get higher up in the mileage, you may want to consider switching to a thicker non synthec oil. Otherwise you will be looking at some leaks.
Once you get higher up in the mileage, you may want to consider switching to a thicker non synthec oil. Otherwise you will be looking at some leaks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
Re: Best Motor Oil and oil filter??
Hey guys,
I went with the Mobl 1 Oil and Filter. Now I need some new spark plugs and wires. Also what company makes a good Oil Pressure gauge system? Autometer? Also what are the best brands for all the other fluids (i.e -brake, transmission, rear-diff, etc). Sorry, I know that I am asking alot of questions, but just want to make sure I get the best products for the tune-up!
I went with the Mobl 1 Oil and Filter. Now I need some new spark plugs and wires. Also what company makes a good Oil Pressure gauge system? Autometer? Also what are the best brands for all the other fluids (i.e -brake, transmission, rear-diff, etc). Sorry, I know that I am asking alot of questions, but just want to make sure I get the best products for the tune-up!