LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Best lt1 cold air period.

Old 04-07-2019, 11:07 PM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Originally Posted by Dylan Stroud View Post
I have a 93 z28. Can I put an slp cold air intake on it? Iv been told I can but can’t seem to find any. Also what would I need to modify? Thanks also if I can’t put a slp on it what should I go with?
I need clarification! Are you asking for the SLP cold air intake?

Or the SLP cold air duct?


ALSO, the LS1 air cleaner assembly won't fit under the stock camaro hood without some cutting! If I remember correctly it will fit under a smaller Sunoco style cowl hood or the Harwood 2.5".

https://www.ls2.com/forums/showthrea...T1-camaro-hood


It seems like you are asking about the cold air duct. If so, you need to CAREFULLY measure and cut out a notch in your upper radiator air dam. This dam ducts air up to the radiator and keeps it there instead of blowing up into the engine bay so you don't want to massacre it and lose the functionality! I did my cutting on a rushed basis since it was below 30 Fahrenheit out when I was doing it. It came out alright but it could have been done better.


Next, you need to cut out the duct that comes molded on the bottom of the LS1 air cleaner assembly so that it will NOW take in air blowing up from the bottom air dam and up front of the radiator area. You will spend HOURS sanding down and cutting with a Dremel since the bottom of the air cleaner assembly is not a perfect fit to the radiator cross support brace on our cars. Just sand a little, mock up, cut a little, mock up, sand and cut a little, mock up, until you can get it as flush as you can get it with the radiator cross support. You only need to bolt the actual metal air duct to the plastic shroud and nothing else! You can do this with the shroud removed from the car and then CAREFULLY from the top, slide the shroud and metal air duct between the radiator cross support and the front of the radiator while guiding the loose dangling shroud tabs. From underneath the car you can get it back flush, pop the shroud tabs back behind the radiator. I had to firmly press down and hold the bottom air cleaner assembly while I bolted it down with only two bolts since our cars don't have the extra two anchor points as on the LS1 cars. Two bolts will hold it down fine! I don't have pictures of when I did this but maybe other members on other forums have their own pictures to give you an idea. It seems daunting at first but even the seemingly apparent hack job I did turned out okay, minus the joke for a hood I am now using but the stock WS6 hood will soon be going back on only it won't be feeding air through the hood nostrils, only helping to cool the engine bay with the airflow.

IF an SLP upper won't fit on your assembly and with the hood you choose or already have, you can use the factory upper like I have on mine. I don't think you will have any problems with fitment, the difference in height between the factory upper and the SLP is minimal! I REALLY want the clear plastic version of the SLP top so that I can visually check the condition of my paper air filter but those are hard to find and I don't think they make them anymore, not since the mid-2000s where I last saw one on a show car Camaro and the guy had money!

One last thing, here is some inspiration for you:
https://www.ebay.com/i/302924593113?chn=ps

Last edited by Phoenix'97; 04-07-2019 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:46 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

I’m just looking for the cold air intake not the ducted. Is there a big difference between k&n and slp? And someone said something about a filler piece? What is that exactly? Thanks
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Old 04-08-2019, 08:16 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Originally Posted by Dylan Stroud View Post
I’m just looking for the cold air intake not the ducted. Is there a big difference between k&n and slp? And someone said something about a filler piece? What is that exactly? Thanks
Darn, all that typing for nothing, lol!

Okay. Honestly I really don't think there is a difference between the SLP and K&N. Maybe a slight difference in how much air they take but I would think they are close enough not to worry about it if you can buy either one. Now, I did have this same air intake on my first car, a Forest Green 1997 base Firebird with the 6-cylinder 3800 Series II engine.

The filler piece is this thing, I BELIEVE:

https://www.lmperformance.com/1637/2...camaro-v8.html
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Old 04-08-2019, 08:47 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
A quick search shows SLP still makes a CAI for the 94-97 LT1. The only difference between 1993 and that setup is the 93’s need for a “filler” piece that goes where the MAF sensor is on the 94-97 cars. It is something you could make yourself.

Alternatively, K&N makes a CAI that is listed for 93-97, and appears to include the filler piece for the 93.
If this is the case then you should probably go with the K&N set-up to make your life easier. I keep forgetting how different the 1993 LT1 is from my 1997.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:06 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Originally Posted by Phoenix'97 View Post

The filler piece is this thing, I BELIEVE:

https://www.lmperformance.com/1637/2...camaro-v8.html
Not what I meant when I said “filler piece”. That's the closure at the base of intake tube(s). By filler, I meant that on a 94-97 the CAI duct is only long enough to connect to the MAF sensor, which fills the gap between the CAI and the 90° rubber inlet elbow. Since 93 doesn’t have an MAF, he would have to insert a short pipe to connect the CAI to the rubber elbow. Similar to what I did in the photo above showing the WS6 intake/filter box, when I deleted the MAF.

Another difference on the 93 is the location of the AIR pump. Instead of being mounted on the front of the engine like 94-97, on a 93 it is mounted to the subframe under the ABS motor pack. Maybe that would interfere with the SLP design, as well.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:13 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

K&N with filler, or “extension” (maybe a better word).......

https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/57-3010-1.jpg
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:20 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Awesome thanks guys really appreciate it!
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:57 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

OK - since we're having a conversation about CAI's. My car was originally fitted with some rough and ready ducting below the front bumper. It ducts air up and into the engine bay right at the base of the CAI filter - is it worth recreating this or would the benefits (if any) be marginal?

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Old 04-08-2019, 11:30 AM
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Re: Best lt1 cold air period.

Hard to tell. In theory, you would have the benefit of the velocity head (aka "ram air") of the air moving into the front facing inlet. But that benefit is not very large until you exceed 100 MPH, and even then, in my opinion, it's not worth the risk of sucking water up off the road. Even with the baffles cut out of my WS6 hood, there was water laying on the filter just from towing the car on a trailer to the track. I cut a foam plug to block the hood openings when towing the car or washing it. I really don't know what the air flow is under the car. How does the air dam affect it? Is it really cold air, or is it air that has been heated above ambient air temp by the hot black pavement?

Ram air, using the concept of velocity head is theoretically about 1% gain at 100 MPH. If you are making 350 HP at the flywheel, you might (in theory) see 3.5 added HP. But the percent of the available pressure gain is a function of the shape of the inlet. Another problem is whether there is substantial air flow at that location. It would take a wind tunnel to evaluate that. At 50 MPH, the maximum possible gain drops to 0.25% meaning your potential gain on the 350 HP engine is only 0.9 HP.

Even the WS6 ram air hood has limitations. As soon as the air hits the front of the car, a boundary layer of still air forms as the air moves up and along the hood. The WS6 hood scoop is at least near the front of the car, where the boundary layer is still thin. The SS hood scoop, on the other hand is so far back on the hood, it is doubtful whether there is an ram air effect at all.

Look at the previous style NHRA Pro Stock hood scoops (which have since been banned) - The actual inlet is 12"-16" above the surface of the hood, and extended forward as far as possible. It was even angled down a bit, to reflect the path of the air coming off the front of the car. Look at the inlet shape and the curvature of the inlet surfaces. Those things were developed in a wind tunnel, on the actual car. While you may see a 1% gain at 100 MPH (in a perfect setup, which doesn't exist), the gains are proportional to the square of the velocity. A Pro Stock car, moving at 200 MPH sees a possible 4% gain. When the engine is making 1,500 HP, that's a free 60 HP. On a street car, not so much.

Technical BS aside, I wouldn't used the setup in the picture.
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