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Keep in mind there's nothing to prevent you from adding an MAF sensor to a setup like the above. I run speed-density, with a filler piece where the MAF would normally be located in the WS6 intake setup.
MAF is fine for most normally aspirated setups. I wouldn’t be concerned about the MAF sensor being restrictive. The big benefit of the MAF sensor is that it fully accounts for improvements to engine “breathing”. Improve the air flow by running a CAI or a killer exhaust, and the MAF sensor directly measures the new air flow. No programming required.
Set up correctly, speed-density can accurately CALCULATE the mass air flow, as opposed to directly MEASURING it. It requires accurate RPM, manifold absolute pressure, and inlet air (absolute) temperature input. Volumetric air flow is calculated using displacement x RPM/2 x volumetric efficiency (VE). Volumetric flow is converted to mass flow by using MAP and IAT in the ideal gas law to calculate the density of the air. Volume x density = mass (use of consistent units obviously required). The problem in all that is effectively establishing the volumetric efficiency.
The manufacturer uses dyno testing the generate the VE tables. As long as your engine is stock, good to go. But whenever you make a change that affects VE, you need to update the VE tables in the program. That is the tuning problem that 1993 LT1 owners face. There is software called VEMaster that help arrive at the correct values.
Add a power adder, and it gets much more complex. MAF can still work well forced induction (as long as you don’t exceed the flow limits of the sensor). Speed-density works well too, although it may involve using a 2-bar or 3-bar MAP sensor (or other workarounds). Throw nitrous into the equation and it gets messier. Wet vs. dry, in front of or after the MAF, cause new issues.
Ok so after looking at my fiberglass hood in detail it looks like i have the RK sport 1 for like 1400 dollars or something, but it has a special hole for there intake, yet there is no intake on the car just a k and n. So i will be buying the RK sport ram air next month when i can. The KAND N is absolute **** and keeps coming apart at every seem. Also i notice that it is restrictive and honestly not very well designed. So I hope to see some gains off the RK sport one considering it will be a true ram air and work with my current hood.
I also modified the bottom portion of this assembly to use the SLP cold air duct, so I benefit from both the ram air hood and the lower radiator deflector. I am not sure what hoods are available for your Camaro if you have an LT1 but this air box assembly was off of an LS1 Camaro. The air box lid will fit under my factory LT1 WS6 hood but I didn't want to cut it up to make it truly functional for this assembly, instead I had a knock-off US Exotics hood of the LS1 Trans Am that is on my car now. I rigged it to have a baffle for rain and I will see this summer how much it will cost to get the hood properly fiberglass worked so that I don't feel so self-conscious of the gorilla tape work I have for now, ha ha. For winter I put the factory upper radiator trim piece back on and deactivate the nostrils on my ram air hood. The system works quite well and fuel economy I noticed is much better due to engine bay air intake in the subfreezing cold.
I think i have the rk sport hood or the ss one, i may cut out more at the top and go with the rk sport intake. Love the pics, we have nearly the same mods lol.
I think i have the rk sport hood or the ss one, i may cut out more at the top and go with the rk sport intake. Love the pics, we have nearly the same mods lol.
I saw that air box looking up your hood. Something did dawn on me given the placement of the air box. I wonder if your hood could be modified for cowl induction. Sure, you will have the ram air effect but you also stand to gain an additional cooling benefit from cowl induction. Just something more to throw in there!
Ill take a better look and post pics of the hood soon, may be possible, i need to do this mod anyways as i hydrolocked tonight and had to start the engine after letting it air out a bit, the k and n sits so low and i was in over 2 feet of water lol.
I am sorry to hear about the hydro-locking issue. Yeah, if you can get your air cleaner assembly as high up in the engine bay as you can, that would be the best thing you can do for the car, and the RK sport air box does just that! Now, if you modify the hood for cowl induction, it will help you out in the performance arena all the more. If only there was a way to capitalize on the cowl effect in tandem with your ram air set-up, sort of likened to how I am using both the SLP duct off of the lower radiator air dam in combination with the ram air of the hood.
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 02-13-2019 at 07:50 AM.
I have a 93 z28. Can I put an slp cold air intake on it? Iv been told I can but can’t seem to find any. Also what would I need to modify? Thanks also if I can’t put a slp on it what should I go with?
A quick search shows SLP still makes a CAI for the 94-97 LT1. The only difference between 1993 and that setup is the 93’s need for a “filler” piece that goes where the MAF sensor is on the 94-97 cars. It is something you could make yourself.
Alternatively, K&N makes a CAI that is listed for 93-97, and appears to include the filler piece for the 93.
01-08-2019, 11:09 AM
