Bent push rod (I think)
Bent push rod (I think)
While I was going down the interstate at a rather high rpm, it lost a ton of power and would not downshift or pickup unless I was on the floor, oil pressure dropped to zero when idle. Now theres a very noticeable knock coming from under drivers side valve cover.
Couple questions
whats the lenght? 7.2 I think just checking
What chromoly push rods from summit will fit my car? A link would be really nice.
I know theres 2 sizes 5/16's and 3/8, im guessing ours is 5/16?
Top tip style-ball or cup?
Use with guide plates is no correct?
Couple questions
whats the lenght? 7.2 I think just checking
What chromoly push rods from summit will fit my car? A link would be really nice.
I know theres 2 sizes 5/16's and 3/8, im guessing ours is 5/16?
Top tip style-ball or cup?
Use with guide plates is no correct?
Last edited by bombebomb; Aug 11, 2007 at 06:34 AM.
Now onto what else could be wrong? I can pull my crank in and out further then normal, The knock was coming from the drivers side underneath the valve cover what else could it be? This is all roughly 9-10 hours after it was on its death bed. Except for the crank, be that way for atleast 10k miles.
With no pushrod in the car there is nothing to hold the lifter in the bore, so if the lifter came out of the lifter bore that would = no oil pressure. I find it kind of hard to beleive you bent a pushrod or broke on just under normal driving though. But if you need 7.15" pushrods I have some for sale, check the link out in my sig.
With no pushrod in the car there is nothing to hold the lifter in the bore, so if the lifter came out of the lifter bore that would = no oil pressure. I find it kind of hard to beleive you bent a pushrod or broke on just under normal driving though. But if you need 7.15" pushrods I have some for sale, check the link out in my sig.
That sheet metal piece won't do anything to hold the lifter in the bore since it is just flimsy sheet metal.
I would drop the oil pan. It takes like 30 minutes and you can reuse the seal.
Make sure you didn't spin a bearing. A collapsed lifter wouldn't cause the car to lose THAT much power, or effect oil pressure.
Drop the pan and check the bearings, driving with it, if it is a bearing, will cost you a lot more if you deal with it after it's catastrophic as opposed to now.
Make sure you didn't spin a bearing. A collapsed lifter wouldn't cause the car to lose THAT much power, or effect oil pressure.
Drop the pan and check the bearings, driving with it, if it is a bearing, will cost you a lot more if you deal with it after it's catastrophic as opposed to now.
However I don't think it's a good idea to run the engine just to confirm what's already taken place. Zero oil pressure and a knock is never good. If you start the engine you could further the damage.
That "sheet metal piece" does nothing more than hold the lifter dog bones in place.
Have you ran the engine to where the OIL (not coolant) is at operating temp? Oil takes a lot longer to heat than coolant. You run the engine while the oil is cold it will be thicker giving you a better oil pressure reading yet masking the problem.
However I don't think it's a good idea to run the engine just to confirm what's already taken place. Zero oil pressure and a knock is never good. If you start the engine you could further the damage.
Have you ran the engine to where the OIL (not coolant) is at operating temp? Oil takes a lot longer to heat than coolant. You run the engine while the oil is cold it will be thicker giving you a better oil pressure reading yet masking the problem.
However I don't think it's a good idea to run the engine just to confirm what's already taken place. Zero oil pressure and a knock is never good. If you start the engine you could further the damage.
Last edited by bombebomb; Aug 16, 2007 at 05:10 PM.


