busta9876

1995 Camaro LT1, 381 stroker
Well I smelled gas really strong today and found my stock fuel pressure regulator dripping down the back of the intake and onto the transmission; time to replace.

What is the best adjustable regulator for the money.

Are there special brackets needed with some regulators due to how it mounts on the fuel rail?

Are third gen TPI regulators a direct fit onto the LT1 fuel rails?

any help would be appriciated.

Thanks.

busta9876

hmm, my local O'Reilly auto parts store says they can order me an adjustable Borg Warner fuel pressure regulator for $56.99 sounds too good to be true.

Will be Wednesday before they can get it in.

borgwarner part number: 23065

anyone else ever seen this one?

thanks

96capricemgr

Why do you want an adjustable? The stock one can be had fairly inexpensively and there are few good reasons to use an adjustable and they should only be used by the select few who know what the hell they are doing otherwise all you will accomplish is screwing up the tune.

simple

eye used that borg warner regulator wth good success.
used t because set the FP at 39ps whch s what the 36lb SVO's had were rated at. and thats what had the njector constant set at


bad eyboard

busta9876

my duty cycle is getting over 80%, so i'm needing more fuel. Not too much more, not worth buying new injectors. i'll try the FPR first.

The stock 24lb'ers should operate at 58psi, in which case they would then flow aprox 29lb/hr. I've also got a set of LS1 injectors, rated 28lb at 4 bar (58 psi)

I'm not too woried about screwing up a tune as I am the one tuning it.

97 6SPEED Z

O'Reilly's now has these for $53.99 ..... and I need a new fuel pressure regulator.

Anyone have any experience/insights to share about the BWD P/N 23065 regulator?

TIA for any replies!

koolaid_kid

That looks like a good generic part, you should be fine. There is not much to go wrong in a stock-type part, other than the diaphram wearing out.

97 6SPEED Z

Actually ........ I suspect the spring in my old one has gone bad. It's not leaking any fuel, but ..... it will only "hold" 15-18 PSI pressure in the fuel rail.

koolaid_kid

What you are suggesting is metal fatigue, which is possible but highly unlikely. If this is actually occurring, that means the excess fuel is being returned to the tank. Try blocking off the return line or even checking it to see if any is being returned. If that does not cause a rise in pressure, the issue is probably elsewhere, and you might want to examine the fuel pump or lines in the tank.
Just a suggestion, YMMV.

canbaufo

Bringing this back from the dead to ask what the Borg Warner adjustable pressure regulator is set at out of the box, if anyone knows? I just bought one and I am preparing to reinstall my fuel rail.

It is a very long story so I will not bore you with the details, but I am replacing a failed Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator which had been set by a tuner to to an unknown level. I was hoping to have this BorgWarner unit set to 43.5 PSI before I install it. This way I can start at the Baseline and make small adjustments instead of possibly starting at something ridiculous like 20 psi or 60 PSI.

I would bet I'm simply going to have to bolt it on and see how it is set up and go from there, if anyone knows otherwise please let me know. Thanks

97 6SPEED Z

It's been a very long time since my last post on this, but, if I remember correctly the fuel pressure spec for a stock regulator is like 41-43 psi, and, I'm pretty sure the "out of the box" setting was in that range. Also, you know you can check what pressure the new adjustable regulator is set to by just installing it, hooking up your fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail port, and just "cycling" the ignition switch four or five times without actually starting the engine, and ..... see what you read. The PCM will energize the fuel pump for 3-5 seconds without seeing engine RPM before it shuts down the pump, if you "cycle" it 4-5 times ...... you should be able to just read the pressure held in the line.

canbaufo

Yes, I have a borrowed FP gauge and understood this to be the case with regard to priming the system via "key on". IIUC with multiple key on's (and no starting) the regular still sends X-amount of fuel through the return line to regulate pressure. Bleed off should be slow and pressure via key on should be roughly the same as pressure while engine is running with the vacuum line pulled from the AFPR and plugged. Just getting all ducks in a row before going across town to work on it. This Borg Warner unit is made for LT1 engines so it makes sense that they would have it pre-set to produce roughly 43.5 PSI as a starting point. I think that's about where the old POS Aeromotive AFPR was set but it's been too many years since I had a pod mounted FP gauge. Thanks for the reply!

Chimera96

I also had a failed out of box Aeromotive FPR. Got the BWD one at auto part store. I don't recall if it was set at 43.5 out of the box. Use your FP gauge to confirm and adjust accordingly. It only takes seconds to adjust once you start the car

Injuneer

I think you need to totally rethink your whole approach to tuning your car. There's got to be a better way than running an open loop tune and playing with the fuel pressure, hoping you can somehow duplicate an unknown adjustment some tuner made for you many years ago. Your setup is low boost, not that complex. I've spoken with Moe Bailey at "MoeHorsepower Tuning' and he'd be willing to work with you. The guys at ltxtech.com think he's the best. He tunes Tony Shepherd's record holding LT1. I just sent a very good friend to Moe for adjustment to his shift tables.

canbaufo

Fred, be sure to see the most recent post in my old infamous thread (#68 lol)....and thank you again for all of your help! I have no interest in tuning the car, as I was happy with the tune in it before everything went pear shaped. I love open loop, it runs so much smoother at low loads. Everything in my tune was tweaked (even the VE tables, which some argue do little to nothing) to use open loop as efficiently as possible. I used DataMaster, a Scanmaster and wideband gauge to dial it in nicely over a period of probably 50 reflashes. Everything is the same now except for the unknown fuel pressure variable, which is super easy to adjust with this Borg Warner AFPR. Honestly, I think the failed Aeromotive had been set to stock anyway (based on memory and other variables).

This brings me to the point I need to make here about the Borg Warner AFPR that others could use for reference (which also appears to be set to approximately stock FP specs out of the box).

Borg Warner BWD 23065 settings I observed out of the box:

Key on FP = 42 PSI

Idle FP as installed = 37 PSI

Idle FP with AFPR vacuum line pulled from vacuum source (lower intake manifold port) with the port plugged = 45 PSI