ARP main stud help...
You're sure about this? I will certainly go with these if they are cheaper than those Miloden's from summit.
Also, there are 2 different listings for me to choose from out of the ARP catalog:
400, with windage tray #234-5606
400, w/windage tray and w/3" outer stud #234-5607
Do you know which of these is appropriate for the LT1?
Thanks
Michael
Also, there are 2 different listings for me to choose from out of the ARP catalog:
400, with windage tray #234-5606
400, w/windage tray and w/3" outer stud #234-5607
Do you know which of these is appropriate for the LT1?
Thanks
Michael
I called ARP Tech Department and they said they don't make the bolts needed for the LT1. I asked him about using the 400sbc ones and he knew nothing of it.
I trust you on this and it is the way I would like to go, but I need to know which of the 2 part numbers it is.
Is it possible for you to easily figure out which you used? If not I may just order 3 of each and see if I can send back the 3 I don't use.
Anyone ever sort this out?
I'm looking at just getting the Milodon kit and storing the 3 others for later use.
I have 4-bolt mains with ARP studs... I'm hoping the Milodon-ARP combo won't through off my fang sway.
I'm looking at just getting the Milodon kit and storing the 3 others for later use.
I have 4-bolt mains with ARP studs... I'm hoping the Milodon-ARP combo won't through off my fang sway.
When I used the ARP ss
horter studs I seated them by hand ,torqed thecaps into place
,installed the rods with a junk set of bearings, set the pan up about .050 from the ceank, then butchered it to fit with .050 clearace on each rod hole.
horter studs I seated them by hand ,torqed thecaps into place
,installed the rods with a junk set of bearings, set the pan up about .050 from the ceank, then butchered it to fit with .050 clearace on each rod hole.
I think they did but I don't remember. I gave those to the machine shop months ago so they're gone for good.
I called ARP Tech Department and they said they don't make the bolts needed for the LT1. I asked him about using the 400sbc ones and he knew nothing of it.
I trust you on this and it is the way I would like to go, but I need to know which of the 2 part numbers it is.
Is it possible for you to easily figure out which you used? If not I may just order 3 of each and see if I can send back the 3 I don't use.
I called ARP Tech Department and they said they don't make the bolts needed for the LT1. I asked him about using the 400sbc ones and he knew nothing of it.
I trust you on this and it is the way I would like to go, but I need to know which of the 2 part numbers it is.
Is it possible for you to easily figure out which you used? If not I may just order 3 of each and see if I can send back the 3 I don't use.
Does your block have 3" long outer studs?
If not get the other part number.
wrd1972, what did you end up doing? Using the Arp's or did you go with the Milodon studs?
I'm at the point where I need to buy the milodon studs or adjust the arp's to work with the stock windage tray.
I'm at the point where I need to buy the milodon studs or adjust the arp's to work with the stock windage tray.
One of the guys here on the board sold me three new Milodon studs that I used with the windage tray. I would suggest doint this even if you buy the full long stud kit and sell the others off, there is no way I would trust those shorter ARP's.
I used the Milodon studs also. As for thread engagement, a good rule of thumb for a screw into steel or iron is that you want about 1 1/2 times screw dia to thread into a hole for max strength. Naturally, this changes with the type of material you are screwing into.
I used the Milodon studs also. As for thread engagement, a good rule of thumb for a screw into steel or iron is that you want about 1 1/2 times screw dia to thread into a hole for max strength. Naturally, this changes with the type of material you are screwing into.


