Putting in ARP main studs for stock windage tray in my block. The ARP stud lacks the length of the GM bolt where it goes into the block. It is about 1/8" shorter.

1. Will there be any issue with the ARP stud having about 1/8" less threads?
2. Does the stud have to be fully screwed in till it stops? If this is the case then these ARP's are way short.

Here are some photos:

 

well, you screw the studs in by themselves, then you attach the nuts

 

I understand that, but is it essential for the stud to screw in till it seats? If this is the case then mine will be too short for the windage tray to attach.

The bottom photo shows the stud sitting in the hole (un-threaded) and you can see how much it is capable of being threaded into the block. If the stock bolt were sitting in the hole in the same manner the gap would be about 1/8" larger since the GM bolt has more threads.

Clearly the ARP will lack 1/8" of "bite" within the block compared to the GM bolt.

 

I would like info on this also...I will be assembling my short block in the next few weekends and also have ARP's.

 

I don't get it. You are using 3 of those windage tray studs to hold the tray? So where's the problem? It looks as though you can adjust the height of where you want your windage tray. As long as your crank doesn't contact the tray there will be no problem. And holy God yes the studs have to be torqued to spec!

 

Let me try to say it another way.
Yes I know I can adjust the height of the three WT studs. These three clearly require to be sticking further out of the block than the shorter studs or the WT wont attach.

Again if the three WT studs are threaded till they stop in the block then the WT wont attach, therefore they must be screwed out a bit over 1/8". This means that there is fewer threads holding the 3 WT studs in than the shorter studs.

From what I am seeing this will not be much of an issue.

 

What did you ever do to get around this problem? I have the same issue.

 

I found that it takes 6.5 turns for the stock stud to thread in and seat finger tight.

My ARP studs are threading in and seating with 5.5 turns, this is allowing for about half of the threads in the final windgae tray nuts to secure the windage tray. Obviously you have found like I did that somthing has to give in terms of threads whether it be the stud in the block or the stud in the final WT nuts. I aimed for as much stud in te block while still having enough on the end for the WT nuts.

I had the machinist look at it and he said it would be fine with that much thread engagement plus it easily held the 75# torque. I also used red loc-tite on all six WT nuts.

Clearly the WT portion of the ARP stud should at the least be 1/4" longer to equal the GM bolt. My picture up top says it all.

 

is it possible you need longer windage tray studs? The ARP windage tray studs are quite short. The Milodons are longer and work well.

Karl

 

Thats exactly what I am saying, however the ARP's should work as long as you maximize the thread into the block. If I had to do it again I would go with the Milodon like you said.

 

I could send you 3 Milodon studs if you want them, (for a reasonable cost).
I keep a drawer full of them for all of my engine builds.

karl

 

Where do you get these and for what cost?
The shop who did my 4-bolt main conversion just used regular bolts rather than studs, so I have no way to attach my windage tray!

 

How much shipped to 40511?

 

I think I should not have offered to do that because I'm not a vendor here.
No moderator has said anything to me but I think I was too quick to type. Please forgive.


The Milodon studs are Summit part #MIL-81150

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

That is a pack of 6 and cost $46 plus the summit handling.

What I do is split the pack and use only 3 for each motor.

Karl

 

I had the same problem with my 4 bolt mains (studs, actually)...no way to use the stock windage tray. That's why I went with an aftermarket pan, mainly to get a windage tray (not to mention that the trap doors to keep the oil near the pump pickup).