Anyone cure their idle surge/low rpm hesitation?
01-11-2004, 08:01 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 486
Anyone cure their idle surge/low rpm hesitation?
There was a few big thread on this a while back. Has anyone fixed this? i am not talking about a little stupid surge like "oops loose intake bellows" i am talking about the crazy surge that after replacing many parts no one could fix?
I relocated my IAT and it seemed to help-hasnt been back yet-but what has everyone else done to cope?
If no one responds then i guess everyone sold their car that has this problem
I relocated my IAT and it seemed to help-hasnt been back yet-but what has everyone else done to cope?
If no one responds then i guess everyone sold their car that has this problem
01-11-2004, 08:06 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Orlando,Fl,USA
Posts: 195
I removed and cleaned out my egr valve & than did the same to the IAC, Cleaned out all of the black stuff in the throttle body and put in new gaskets where needed. This stopped it for about 4-5 months and now its starting a little again. Not as bad as last time though???? I already replaced my plugs,wires ,& o2 sensors so I know they are good. I believe that the IAC my be faulty???
01-11-2004, 08:10 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 441
I have the problem right now. I cleaned my IAC and throttle body with no avail. I am gonna take it in and have someone else diagnose it, because I am stumped. I'm thinking its the egr, but I didnt get a code, so I am not sure. Its got the symptoms associated with it. Ill get back with you on what it is. thanks, Michael
01-11-2004, 08:12 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 486
Well i have a new EGR, and new IAC (replaced iac 3 times b/c my mech was so sure of it). I have a feeling this post will come up more in the spring when it warms up out since that is when most cars did it, incluiding mine.
no codes here either.
no codes here either.
01-31-2004, 11:56 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 90
I had this problem 2 years ago. Cleaned/replaces all of the above
but it did not fix problem. I could not drive in the rain because the tires would break loose at stop lights. 2 shops worked on it and could not find/fix the problem. No SES light, no codes, every scanned perfectly.
I finally took it to a dealer and there machine found the problem in seconds! OPTISPARK!! Had it replaced and have had no problem since.
but it did not fix problem. I could not drive in the rain because the tires would break loose at stop lights. 2 shops worked on it and could not find/fix the problem. No SES light, no codes, every scanned perfectly.
I finally took it to a dealer and there machine found the problem in seconds! OPTISPARK!! Had it replaced and have had no problem since.
01-31-2004, 01:14 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 90
It would start surging after driving 10 minutes or so after a cold start (morning on way to work, evening on way home). After it woud start surging when engine was warm nothing else really affected the surging. Meaning, AC on or off, in gear or out of gear (automatic), outside temp, dry, wet, foot on or off brake, etc. It would just surge.
I'd stop at a stoplight and out of the blue the car would leap forward! I'd have to put it in neutral, especilly when raining!
Other people would look at me like I was some kind of hot rod teen showing off (i am 48 years old). It was a little embarrasing.
My mechanic replaced the EGR, replaced the idle air valve. the MAP senser, and cleaned the throttle body.
Second mechanic replaced a leaking front oil seal thinking maybe oil was getting into the OptiSpark, changed plugs and wire (they were only 10 months old), and finally put in not one, but two new computers and had them programmed at a dealer via satelite.
At no time did a SES ligt come on or was a code ever recovered from the computer. All sensers scanned within normal parameters.
Finally, out of desperation, I took the car to the dealer. They hooked it up to their scanner and it pointed directly at the Optispark in a matter of seconds.
They replaced it and problem was gone.
Its been 2 years since all of this and the problem has yet to come back.
I learned a lesson though all of this. Next time I have a drivability problem, I'm going straight to the dealer. I spent about $3400.00 to get this problem corrected, not to mention almost an entire summer with the car in the shop or waiting to go into the shop because it was undriveable.
Also, I was able to get $1200.00 back from the 2nd shop because they had the opti off to fix the seal and claimed at that time that the opti was ok. So i request a refund for everything they did after the oil seal.
Don't know if this info will help you or not. Good luck!
Greg
I'd stop at a stoplight and out of the blue the car would leap forward! I'd have to put it in neutral, especilly when raining!
Other people would look at me like I was some kind of hot rod teen showing off (i am 48 years old). It was a little embarrasing.
My mechanic replaced the EGR, replaced the idle air valve. the MAP senser, and cleaned the throttle body.
Second mechanic replaced a leaking front oil seal thinking maybe oil was getting into the OptiSpark, changed plugs and wire (they were only 10 months old), and finally put in not one, but two new computers and had them programmed at a dealer via satelite.
At no time did a SES ligt come on or was a code ever recovered from the computer. All sensers scanned within normal parameters.
Finally, out of desperation, I took the car to the dealer. They hooked it up to their scanner and it pointed directly at the Optispark in a matter of seconds.
They replaced it and problem was gone.
Its been 2 years since all of this and the problem has yet to come back.
I learned a lesson though all of this. Next time I have a drivability problem, I'm going straight to the dealer. I spent about $3400.00 to get this problem corrected, not to mention almost an entire summer with the car in the shop or waiting to go into the shop because it was undriveable.
Also, I was able to get $1200.00 back from the 2nd shop because they had the opti off to fix the seal and claimed at that time that the opti was ok. So i request a refund for everything they did after the oil seal.
Don't know if this info will help you or not. Good luck!
Greg
01-31-2004, 10:10 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 441
I cured mine! I had a plug wire that was arcing and i couldnt see it. Mine escalated though, until i had backfiring and extreme hesitation under part and full throttle. I replaced it and its running good now. Thanks, Michael
02-01-2004, 10:24 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: LA
Posts: 36
My 94 was surging and almost died out. The coil wire kept coming off so I replaced it. Now the car just misses after its warmed up. I bought a new car and may donate the Z but I sure would like to know why it is missing at partial and full throttle. Its funny, sometimes it runs like new when its cold. HELP before I give it away.
02-01-2004, 10:42 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 441
if it isnt plug wires and isnt throwing any codes, then bite the bullet and take to the dealer. I usually always take it to the dealer, because they usually diagnose it right the first time, otherwise u will spend money on bad diagnoses and then not get the problem fixed. A quarter spent now, is better than a dollar spent later. Try the dealer and see what happens. -Michael