Aftermarket Header Bolts
 

Are aftermarket header bolts identical to the factory LT1 bolts? Some of the stock bolts have extended studs and nuts instead of standard hex heads.

For the most part they are identical. The alternator (for some reason or another) is held down by 899 bolts and it doesn't need to be. Removing the support won't hurt.

I prefer ARP stainless 1" bolts (longer the better - less resistant to backing out).

I wish folks would call the cast iron piece that bolts to the exhaust flange on the head a MANIFOLD and fabricated tubing pieces that replace that HEADERS.

The stock MANIFOLDS use regular bolts and studs, 9/16" head to it all, some studs or bolts have a little sleeve spacer on them even.

HEADER hardware generally has a reduced size hex or 12 point to them, still a 3/8" NC thread but instead of a normal 9/16" hex they will be 3/8" or 5/16" hex or 12 point.

I have never installed HEADERS where you could have used the stock 9/16" head hardware.

Lot easier to get help if you know what to call stuff.

Far as the bracing from the alternator to the manifold stud, many people do delete that BUT a few have had the aluminum accessory bracket break after doing so.

Hardware length will depend on the thickness of the flange you are bolting too the head.

The magical "backing out" that everyone seems to thing header/manifold hardware does is NOT backing out on it's own, it starts with gasket compression causing the bolt to be loose, then it can rattle further out. How long a bolt you put through a gasket will have zero effect on whether it compresses.

Easier to answer someone's question if you actually read it. Nowhere in my post did I call the factory exhaust pieces headers. My primary concern was the bolts with studs such as the one for the alternator bracket since most exhaust bolts I have seen are simple 6 or 12 point. RamAir took care of that question quite nicely for me.

Thanks for the good information that you supplied, but for future reference, take the trolling to the import forums. They might appreciate it over there.

That guy wasn't trolling you. He gave you extra information because the nature of your question indicated that you don'thave a lot of knowledge about the parts you are asking about.

As he said, the stock bolts are LT1 specific pieces and aftermarket header bolts are all the same length and style in a given package, including no provision for studs needed for accessory attachment, and I have never seen any sets specifically for LT1. Most header bolts are set up for fitment in tight places. If you needed to, you could custom make some header studs to support the alternator bracket if you feel it's needed.

I've just used the stock manifold bolt on the header in the places that required a bracket to be bolted to it in the past. I don't think I have any on the TA, but the LT4 truck the oil dipstick tube bolts to the header bolt next to Cyl#6.
In some cases you may have to use additional spaces or trim the stud down some on both ends to make it work.

I like using Allen-head bolts for headers on SBC/LT1 engines. Especially when the header pipes are 1.75" of larger, where there is very little clearance for a wrench or a socket. Allen-head bolts work well because the Allen key or bit fits inside the head instead of around the outside, and the OD of the bolt head is usually smaller than the OD of a hex-head bolt.

You can get Allen-head ratchet bits and keys with a rounded "knob" end too for when the bolt is in a tough place and you can't get it straight on - lets you work at ir from an angle. Absolutely a g0d-send for LT1 and SBC header installs IMO. The pic of the wrenches shows the knob on one end for working at an angle. Can get ratchet bits like that too.

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