Hi I was wondering what exatly is needed, I've looked on the internet and I know Summit sells the intake manifold, I know I need a new Fuel Pressure Regulator, block plate for opti, and need to remove the oil regulator from where the new distributor would go, but besides the carb is that all I need?

Where exactly can I get a block plate? Summit has one but its only for 95-97 lt1s. Is there a timing cover available if I can't find the block plate?

While I have the intake off, I want a little bit of a power increase so I was thinking of putting a cam in? Whats a good cam for power (street/strip) with stock heads?

 

If by block plate you mean the front cover plug pn 12367600 then you're out of luck as they only make them for the large hole front covers. You can do 1 of two things, you can; 1) change the front cover to a 95 or later cover cover, part number for a 95 is 10214196 and the one for 96-97 is 12550032. The 96 and 97 covers are fitted with a cam sensor so you'd be better off sticking with a 95 cover. Or you can 2) take the distributor seal out and find a freeze plug to tap in there. Use some loctite and you'll be good to go. This way you won't need a cover plug at all....

If you're going to keep the stock water pump then you should switch to the extreme duty timng chain set, pn 12370835. If you're going electric then you can use a cloyes 9-3145 true roller timing chain and have a great setup for way less money that the extreme duty set.

I have no idea what you mean by "oil regulator from where the new distributor will go". The only thing on the back of the manifold on that side is the EGR....and you can block that off at the manifold.

A good cam with stock heads is a tough one. For the best power you should open up the breathing a bit. IF you're gonna stay stock with the heads maybe stay stock with the cam and just add a set of 1.6 rr. On my car, stock heads and manifold I was able to get 300 rwhp with an electric water pump, all the free mods like TB bypass, etc, and a CAI...oh yeah, and a hypertech tune. You can cam up but you'll always be limited by the heads....

 

bw_hunter, thanks for the reply I saved the whole reply to notepad, I also heard that I need a 6.5 harmonic balancer off a sbc? The other questions is what do I do with the fuel injector wires? Can I rip the computer out? Or just the EFI wire harness? By switching to a carb what can I take out of the car? Is my cruise control going to be affected?

 

You'll need a timing mark somehow to run a rear mount distributor so I guess you'll either need to mod yours or buy something else. I doubt you can get rid of the computer..it runs the gauges and fans and tells your transmission to shift, if you have an automatic. I also suppose your cruise control will be knocked out as well as it uses the VSS and the computer.

I've never done the conversion in an f-body but helped a guy install one in his hot rod. The computer functions needed to run the F-bosy were handled by different methods on that car.....

 

An alternative approach is to simply use a gen 1 small block timing chain cover and fabricate a small block-off plate to seal the open area above the upper edge of the cover. I've done this several times. When this approach is followed, a gen 1 harmonic damper and a gen 1 timing marker can be used. If you're interested in this, I can provide pictures.

c

 

cnorton: I would like to see the pics because if its easier than the block off plate and has a timing mark it might be easier for me in the long run.

bw: once again thanks for the reply, guess I'm not ripping out the computer because I have an A4.

If I get my compressor tester out couldn't I just put it in cylinder 1 and wait for TDC compression and base timing off of that? I also looked up the block plate part number on summit and got this.

"A plug made for your Optispark ignition.
These GM Performance Parts LT1/LT4 front cover plugs are designed to block off the Optispark ignition when converting from fuel injection to a carburetor. They are made of aluminum and have a natural finish. They must be used with 1995-97 timing covers."

But if they are for the larger hole isn't that the spline driven Opti which I have? I thought later opti's were driven by a smaller hole with a dowel pin.

 

Just the opposite. The 92-94 cover has a small hole, just large enough for the 1/2" diameter splice shaft to fit through (not really but close enought for this discussion). The splined shaft is right in the center of the camshaft and spins on center with it's diameter.. The 95-97 covers have a hole as large as the cam journals and the pin is offset from the cam center and rotates around the cam centerline, describing a circle about 1-1/2" in diameter.

I'm not the best at describing things but I hope that helps you unuderstand. I might have an old cover around that I could take a pic of....

 

Frat,

If you're planning on using an opti with a carburetor, my suggestion won't work. I use a traditional distributor in conjunction with the carburetor. Please disregard my previous post.

c

 

I think that's what he's after. He wants a plug for the front cover wher the opti goes but they only make them for the large hole covers.....

 

That's probably correct! I'm still a little groggy this morning.

I can't locate the pictures that I took of this set-up the last time someone asked so I'll have to mock it up again in the shop again this morning.

Anyone who wants pictures can send their e-mail address to: <cnorton7311@verizon.net>.

I don't care for the complicated processes involved in posting pictures on this message board.

c

 

Yes, I am looking to get rid of the crapti-spark. So I assume I have to goto a 95 cover, and go with the blocking plate, and while I'm there gonna definitly get the heavy duty timing set.

Bw: the way you explained the hole makes sense. Any recommendations for a fuel pressure regulator?

 

Another of the advantages to going to the gen 1 cover is that you can use any timing chain set that was designed to work with the retainer plate, roller cam configuration. Not only is it somewhat cheaper than at LTx chain, there are a lot of options.

c

 

Actually, that's only true if you go to an electric water pump. And if you go to an electric water pump you can do that with the LTx cover. I did that, I run a Cloyes 9-3145 double row true roller timng set.

 

On the gen 1 covers is there any modifications requires like bolt holes or anything like that?

 

All the bolt holes and dowel pins line up, as is. The three top-most holes and a small arc of the LT1 opening need to be covered. I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and the LT1 gasket to lay out the block-off plate. I cut it out on a bandsaw, cleaned it up by hand, polished it for looks, and sealed it to the top of the timing cover with silicone. I ran such a block-off plate along with a Jesel belt drive front cover on my Super Stock LT1 up to 8500 RPM and it never leaked a drop nor seeped any stains. Basically, as long as you're willing to dump the opti, use an electric water pump and a traditional distributor, it's a no-brainer.