383 Rotating Assembly
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 70
383 Rotating Assembly
Where would be the best place to buy a pre-balanced 383 rotating assembly that will hold an LE2 H/C w/ a 200 shot.
I've been looking at the AI packages because I like the Callies stuff better then the Eagle and it seems like a pretty good deal, but i'm not sure if i could get a better deal or better parts for cheaper somewhere else so I was hoping somebody could help me out..
I would just like the rotating assembly pre-balanced with good bearings and rings.
Thanks.
I've been looking at the AI packages because I like the Callies stuff better then the Eagle and it seems like a pretty good deal, but i'm not sure if i could get a better deal or better parts for cheaper somewhere else so I was hoping somebody could help me out..
I would just like the rotating assembly pre-balanced with good bearings and rings.
Thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,445
From: Seattle, WA
I have a VRE short block. It arrived rusted (I have pics), and Eric was good to work with. Although it wasn't packaged all that great (he claims it was a FedEx problem) the engine had to be torn down and the lifter bores and head gasket surface cleaned up to get rid of the rust. ERic paid for it all, great guy, and the engine was shipped out MUCH faster than the local performance shop quoted (they were backed up with winter orders).
During the teardown however, which was done by a local shop owner that worked for a NASCAR team for several years, the rings were found filed uneven, slanted, and one even had a burr that was scoring the cylinder wall. I still have the rings.
After the engine was cleaned up and being assembled, I went to install the knock sensor and found that when he rocked the block he didn't leave a coolant channel to the sensor, and it was completely covered. We fixed it by drilling out the path using a LONG drill bit from a differential repair kit we had on hand.
Beyond the knock sensor issues (which can be resolved by using a section of fuel hose and a hanger during pouring/setting)... the rock block was done completely wrong. The epoxy in both water jackets was done at the same time (instead of each bank separately)... the epoxy settled to the OUTSIDE of the engine block and ABSOULUTELY none of the epoxy was on the inner walls (yes, I have pictures). So I paid $50 to reinforce my oil pan rails... good to know if the oil pan ever majicly starts to make hp.
Mounting the intake manifold was also an issue, as the block was 0-decked to 9.000" (removing 0.030") on the head gasket surfaces, but the top of the block was not touched and the intake manifold sat flush to the rails... no room for RTV, and worse, to compress the side rails. This is a common problem in 0-decked blocks, so I was suprised it wasn't done/caught. To compensate we had the intake manifold rails milled down 0.075" (stock head castings, stock manifold casting)... cost me another $60.
For general engine building I'm sure VRE is a great option, and Eric is a nice guy and knows how to order and assemble performance parts, but I'd feel horrible if I simply didn't point out every performance option I asked for was plagued with rookie mistakes. I don't know how it happened, but it did, and I wish someone would have said something when I was looking through threads on here for a supplier.
My block may have been the freak "Monday" mishap, but in hindsight I really wish I would have paid more for our local shop (which did the rebuild) to do it for me in the first place.
During the teardown however, which was done by a local shop owner that worked for a NASCAR team for several years, the rings were found filed uneven, slanted, and one even had a burr that was scoring the cylinder wall. I still have the rings.
After the engine was cleaned up and being assembled, I went to install the knock sensor and found that when he rocked the block he didn't leave a coolant channel to the sensor, and it was completely covered. We fixed it by drilling out the path using a LONG drill bit from a differential repair kit we had on hand.
Beyond the knock sensor issues (which can be resolved by using a section of fuel hose and a hanger during pouring/setting)... the rock block was done completely wrong. The epoxy in both water jackets was done at the same time (instead of each bank separately)... the epoxy settled to the OUTSIDE of the engine block and ABSOULUTELY none of the epoxy was on the inner walls (yes, I have pictures). So I paid $50 to reinforce my oil pan rails... good to know if the oil pan ever majicly starts to make hp.
Mounting the intake manifold was also an issue, as the block was 0-decked to 9.000" (removing 0.030") on the head gasket surfaces, but the top of the block was not touched and the intake manifold sat flush to the rails... no room for RTV, and worse, to compress the side rails. This is a common problem in 0-decked blocks, so I was suprised it wasn't done/caught. To compensate we had the intake manifold rails milled down 0.075" (stock head castings, stock manifold casting)... cost me another $60.
For general engine building I'm sure VRE is a great option, and Eric is a nice guy and knows how to order and assemble performance parts, but I'd feel horrible if I simply didn't point out every performance option I asked for was plagued with rookie mistakes. I don't know how it happened, but it did, and I wish someone would have said something when I was looking through threads on here for a supplier.
My block may have been the freak "Monday" mishap, but in hindsight I really wish I would have paid more for our local shop (which did the rebuild) to do it for me in the first place.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 586
From: Oklahoma City, OK
For general engine building I'm sure VRE is a great option, and Eric is a nice guy and knows how to order and assemble performance parts, but I'd feel horrible if I simply didn't point out every performance option I asked for was plagued with rookie mistakes. I don't know how it happened, but it did, and I wish someone would have said something when I was looking through threads on here for a supplier.
My block may have been the freak "Monday" mishap, but in hindsight I really wish I would have paid more for our local shop (which did the rebuild) to do it for me in the first place.
My block may have been the freak "Monday" mishap, but in hindsight I really wish I would have paid more for our local shop (which did the rebuild) to do it for me in the first place.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 473
From: Lexington Park, Maryland, USA
One more plug for buying your Callies stuff direct from Ai.
I say that because I'm an engine builder myself and I buy all of my heads and cams and intake manifolds and valvetrain components direct from Ai. Their stuff is always top quality.
Maybe you can find Callies/Compstar rotating assemblies elsewhere for a few bucks cheaper but that's about it, (a few bucks).
Callies is a very good manufacture and they support their dealers very well.
This list of official Callies/Compstar vendors is at this link
Compstar official dealers
Karl Ellwein
I say that because I'm an engine builder myself and I buy all of my heads and cams and intake manifolds and valvetrain components direct from Ai. Their stuff is always top quality.
Maybe you can find Callies/Compstar rotating assemblies elsewhere for a few bucks cheaper but that's about it, (a few bucks).
Callies is a very good manufacture and they support their dealers very well.
This list of official Callies/Compstar vendors is at this link
Compstar official dealers
Karl Ellwein
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