instead of slowly adding parts to my daily driven LT1.......im planning on buying a seperate block, and building it up at my house, and eventually swapping it into my car.

now im seriously considering a 383.

im looking for around 400-450 rwhp with the stroker, and a good set of heads, and a matching cam.

my question is whether something like this is a good deal?

pre-built 383

or would i be better off buying a stroker kit ,second kit on page is LT1 kit or this one , and having a local machine shop do the work?


guys who have built their own 383's.......how much did it end up costing you in the long run? im guessing around $4g.......am i close?

 

thanks.......i understand.


im really just looking for opinions on the few kits i posted.


also, just found this.....another prebuilt 383

 

Are you gonna be spraying, blowing or NA? This is a huge factor. Let us know.

JR

 

I'm not familiar with those companies.

I would probably ONLY buy from a company I knew had made high performance proven motors for people I knew.

That being said I'd probably go with www.nu-tekmotorsports.com

There are tons of companies out there that will claim to build high output reliable strokers.

Only a handful will do it right.

Only 2-3 shops in my town out of 20 build top notch motors. The rest experience problems with spun bearings etc.

 

Depends on what you want to do with the stroker. Are you staying N/A? FI or nitrous later on down the road?

More than likely you will be throwing a power adder on top of the stroker in the future which means you will probably want forged pistons, crank and 4 bolt mains.

Sure you can find an inexpensive stroker but would you rather spend the money now and get a built bottom end or wait later on when you get a power adder and have to pull everything (and balancing, etc) again to throw in forged components.

I'm in the process of doing a stroker as well and I figured I might as well go for the gusto now and pull the engine once instead of taking the chance of breaking something later on down the road.

 

If I had it to do over again, I'd have gone ahead and bought the short block from nu-tek.

The "fun" of building a motor by yourself goes away quick when you run into delay, after delay, after mind numbing delay. It was a very frusterating process.

The machine shop took 6 weeks instead of 2, basically holding the block hostage for a month.

The pistons were special order.... another 4 weeks wait.

Every little crappy thing that you could think of that could possibly delay the project happened. Waiting for parts to arrive was the biggie though... and then, on more than one occasion... the parts that arrived were the WRONG ONES.

That, coupled with the mess of having motor parts strung all over the garage and an engine stand parked in the stall where my car should have been parked.... tracking oil and kitty litter into the house, day after day... ugh, never again.

As far as cost is concerned, we spent $4,000 on just the bottom end alone.

These things just kind of snowball.

 

I WOULD NOT BUY FROM SPEED O MOTIVE!!!
i'm currently doing an engine rebuild and was considering buying from speedomotive...i researched them on sites such as...nastyz28.com...3gen.org....ls1.com....badrap. net...

do some searches and you'll find out that almost everybody that has every bought a shortblock from them complained about it and said it wasn't worth the money and had to rebuild the motor they purchased...some people didn't complain that only bought stroker kits...

after calling the company about it and asking them about the negative feedback i found on them... the person was extremely rude and told me that they don't want my business anyway...

definitely buy from a proven company that you can trust..even tho its going to be more expensive...you don't want to have to go through a rebuild twice

good luck

 

Unless you build motors on the side or have access to someone who knows what they are doing, your best off to have it built by a reputable company. Im going Nu-tek, its all ready set i jsut have to call and order it. Talk to Nick Norris, he ROCKS!

Price of a SHORT block from them with quality component will run like 4700-5000$, A good cam and head package likewise with other needed components go for at least 2500$.....

If you have your lit heads P&P'ed that will save for cost but wont flow as good as AFR heads, cus AFR flow and combust better than LT1 and LT4's but they go for like 2,200 dollars. Also Nu-tek offers these as a "off the shelf" item so you can order them.

Put it this way if you have a stock motor, like stock heads and cam, your looking at a needed upgrade, and snutek offeres a good package, its their 383 street and strip package, check it out.

Nick will custom do anything you want, this set up they list is not set in stone, so go for it!!!

 

i'm curious, with a place like Nu-tek, do you send them your block as a core and they send you a built one? or do they actually build your block?

i guess i just don't like the idea of sending them a block with 60K miles on it and possibly gettting one with for all i know 160K miles. i realize they are machined and all new parts are added...but do you know what i mean...

 

Nu-tek has cores on hand, they are ALL clean, tanked, sonic checked, magnafluxed, All the good stuff. NO block is ever used with any imperfections. It was said in their GMHTP artical that they have only gotten one fragged block, but of course 1 is too many.

WHat they do is, if youw ant, they car start on the new motor, with their cores, and while thats being done it gioes you time to ship yours out. If you dont send a core, there is a 675$ charge. In additon to the motor cost. I am having them start early cus it takes 4-6 weeks for your motor to be done. So if im busing ripping the old one out, then i can have the other opne being built and when is end mine out, they finish it out and send it back to you.

I am having them use one of their cores, and ill send mine when im done ri[pping mine out fo my camaro

 

EXACTLY!!

Here's my list of problems:

1) Heads need to be re-carved because initial head porter did a crap job so they flowed just a tad better and the first machine shop milled too much off the heads so we had to lower the compression.

2) Scat crank needed 3 slugs to balance.

3) Journals on crank are different sizes so we need 2 different bearing sizes.

4) Rods need to be sized and balanced again.

5) Fluidamper needs to be machined to fit crank key.

etc etc etc.

I too would have just ordered a pre-built one from Nu-Tek.

I ordered my entire stroker kit from them though.