I was talking to a guy at work who is building a 383 stroker, non LT1, tradtional GM block. He was explaining how he had to have his block notched for clearence issues. I am wondering if this is an issue when building a 383 LT1.

He was also talkig about having the crank cross drilled to help oiling, something about it will get oil on both sides of the crank as opposed to one... anyone framilier with this? Said it was something to consider when building a high reving engine.

Thanks, Matt

 

Yep, it usually is. I needed to clearance the pan rail with a die grinder, and my oil pan needed "massaging" with a ball pean hammer.

 

Yup you need about .060 clearance on the pan rails and bottom the the cylinders. You also might have to clearance the rods for cam clearance.

 

This is probably a stupid question, but what does "clearence the rods" exactly mean? Would the shop that will be balancing my parts take care of this?

If it helps, My engine will be N/A with stock casting ported heads:

SRP pistons, P/N 138103, -16 cc dome volume
Scat 9000 crank, 3.750 stroke
eagle H-beam 6" rods, unless I beam will be strong enough.

Thanks again, Matt.

 

Just did mine with Eagle H-beams and they definately had a clearance issue. The machine shop will have to clearance the block. If you can picture this.....the rods are longer and the stroke is bigger so when the rods rotate aroung the crank it will hit the lower walls of the cylinders. When they talk about clearancing there just making sure nothing is hitting. You'll need to do this. The Eagle rods will definately hit the oil pan and windage tray. I ended up going with the Canton pan with built in windage tray. It fits like a glove.

 

Same pistons and crank I'm got! Why are you going with Eagle rods though? Scat has an LT1 package...

383IPS or something. Email a guy named Brian Adams: scatstroker@hotmail.com about seeing what kind of deal he can work out for you...might be worth your while. If you're going N/A, 4340 Forged I-beams will be fine.