LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

383 Advice needed...

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Old May 26, 2003 | 05:24 PM
  #1  
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383 Advice needed...

I'm looking at this setup:
- 2 bolt main caps with ARP main studs
- Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft
- Eagle 4340 forged H-Beam connecting rods
- SRP forged pistons (flat top/dish top depending on application)
- JE Plasma Moly ring set
- Clevite 77 race bearings
- Melling high volume oil pump
- Fully balanced and blueprinted
- Custom hydraulic roller camshaft designed for customer’s goals
- GM LT4 Extreme Duty timing chain set with oversized crank sprocket
- Fully assembled short block

Will the crank and H-beam rods handle a 200 shot?
Planning on using the 224/236 Xtreme nitrous cam with ported/polished Fbody 651 castings and 2.02/1.60 valves.

I can't wait until tomorrow to find out from cmotorsports so I thought I'd ask opinions on here today.

Let me know,
Mike
Old May 26, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #2  
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Everything is forged! Don't know if you have it or not, but get an MSD or equivilent ignition system to retard you out when you spray. Keep it safe
Old May 26, 2003 | 09:45 PM
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Sounds good except for one exception....high volume fuel pump. Stock pump will probably lean out with that kind of output. You could be rebuilding again real soon if you don't upgrade.....
Old May 26, 2003 | 09:50 PM
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Per list above:
- Melling high volume oil pump

Mike
Old May 26, 2003 | 09:56 PM
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Originally posted by mtxpert
Per list above:
- Melling high volume oil pump

Mike
Uhh...I said FUEL pump! Oil pump would have nothing to do with your car leaning out under high demand...
Old May 26, 2003 | 09:59 PM
  #6  
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That's what I get for working 12 hours on a holiday....

I have the Walbro 340 in tank and the Bosch inline fuel pump for my dry nitrous setup. I was pushing 400HP/480TQ to the rear wheels with nitrous on stock motor.

I'm hoping that I don't have to get too crazy on the fuel system to support the new head/cam stroker and a 200 or 300 shot. I will be changing from a dry shot to direct port installation.



Mike
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:13 PM
  #7  
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HI Mike,

The only thing I have heard is that the Eagle cranks are not as good becasue they take more metal to balance and the journals tend to have some taper. This was from My machinist. I have seen several guys on here using the H-beams.
I would like to know what Combination says about the cranks.
My machinist said they like Scat cranks better than eagle because they have a lot fewer machining issues with them. I believe Nu-Teck mentioned this in 1 or 2 of their write ups in magazines.
I don't know how well the 2 bolt main bearings hold up to 600rwhp as far as the bearings wanting to walk around. I would like to hear from some guys using 2 bolt mains making that kind of power. There is a guy using the stock, crank Eagle H beams and a 300 shot and he put his engine together with plastigauge and he is running 9's
Let me know
Tom
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:19 PM
  #8  
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Originally posted by TCAL95Z
HI Mike,

The only thing I have heard is that the Eagle cranks are not as good becasue they take more metal to balance and the journals tend to have some taper. This was from My machinist. I have seen several guys on here using the H-beams.
I would like to know what Combination says about the cranks.
My machinist said they like Scat cranks better than eagle because they have a lot fewer machining issues with them. I believe Nu-Teck mentioned this in 1 or 2 of their write ups in magazines.
I don't know how well the 2 bolt main bearings hold up to 600rwhp as far as the bearings wanting to walk around. I would like to hear from some guys using 2 bolt mains making that kind of power. There is a guy using the stock, crank Eagle H beams and a 300 shot and he put his engine together with plastigauge and he is running 9's
Let me know
Tom
Take this FWIW, but this was my quote from Nu-Tek from January:
Callies Dragon Slayer LT1 Crank/ 3.750" stroke/ 1pc. rear seal 889.00
170817 J.E. blower piston/ 4.030" bore/ 3.75" stroke/ 6" rod/ 28cc dish 695.00
CRS6000B3D 6" forged H-beam rods 429.00
8-7100CH SBC large chamfer performance rod bearing set 45.28
139M SBC large chamfer performance main bearings 51.45
R9771.035 Speed Pro ring set/ file fit/ std tension oil ring 98.18
Subtotal 2,207.91
3.25% discount -71.76
Dragon Slayer 383 Assembly Total Price 2,136.15

Clean block / including final wash 60.00
Bore V-8 .030 oversize 100.00
Deck plate hone - add'l charge 50.00
Install splayed main caps/ align hone block 450.00
Deck V-8 block w/ BHJ block-true fixture 125.00
Replace cam bearings 30.00
Clearance block for stroker crank 125.00
Balance assembly 225.00
Replace soft plug / oil galley plug 19 28.50
File fit rings 60.00
Assemble full floating piston & rod assembly 45.00
Assemble short block 300.00
234-5602 Main stud kit/ splayed caps 81.66
NT234 Nu-Tek Billet splayed main caps 189.00
SH1349S Cam bearing set 17.97
Splayed Mains Block Prep Total Price 1,887.13

15-242T Oil pan/ new style 299.00
20-020 Pickup High volume 7" 34.00
M55HV High volume oil pump 25.54
IS55E Oil pump shaft 5.70
230-7003 Chevy oil pump stud kit 5.94
Subtotal 370.18
9.5% Discount -35.17
Canton LT1 Oil Pan Kit Total Price 335.01
Custom grind LT1 hydraulic roller cam 279.00
12370835 Timing set LT4 extreme 283.77
10530-16 SBC Hyd roller lifters 199.40
BS40520 LT1 Rear main seal 26.64
12552426 '95 LT1 timing cover 100.00
10128293 LT1 timing cover gasket 3.49
OS34500R Oil pan gasket

38.16



Thanks for considering us for your project
Sales Tax
(0.0%) $0.00

Total
$5,288.75

I think they like the Callies DragonSlayer line because it's a lot cheaper to balance.
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:30 PM
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Well if I'm buying an assembled 383 shortblock that's balanced and blueprinted the only thing that would be questionable then would be maybe upgrade to I beams and splayed caps?

Another $500 wouldn't kill me but another $1k would...



Mike
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:51 PM
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Hi
I Believe the H beams are better than the I beams. Or do you mean the callies I beams from Oliver? I just don't like the idea of buying a new forged crank and it needing machine work to correct factory problems.

Who is going to install that for you?
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally posted by mtxpert
Well if I'm buying an assembled 383 shortblock that's balanced and blueprinted the only thing that would be questionable then would be maybe upgrade to I beams and splayed caps?

Another $500 wouldn't kill me but another $1k would...



Mike
Probably be looking at about $700 to install splayed mains if everything else is good. YMMV.
Old May 26, 2003 | 10:54 PM
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I'm going to just buy the complete short block assembled from Combination Motorsports....



Mike
Old May 27, 2003 | 01:15 PM
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OK guys one more question....

Is the 224/236 114 Xtreme nitrous cam too small for this setup?

I want mid to low 12's on motor (4400 lb car) and very low 11's on juice.

Let me know,
Mike
Old May 27, 2003 | 02:00 PM
  #14  
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Re: 383 Advice needed...

Originally posted by mtxpert
Will the crank and H-beam rods handle a 200 shot?
Mike
I sure hope so

My 383 runs polished beam stock rods with arp bolts. Stock 2bolt mains w/ Scat cast steel crank. I'm running a 100/150 too stage system and the motor has seen a 300 shot. Motors been together for 4-1/2 years.

You shouldnt have any problems with the setup you're proposing.

Last edited by speedmiser; May 27, 2003 at 02:12 PM.
Old May 27, 2003 | 02:08 PM
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everything looks great



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